1985 Crate Engines
10-12-2012, 10:44 AM
#21
Former Vendor
I have a 90 ZR1 with 560HP and I get no traction on the street and that is with 315 tires. Also, more HP breaks more parts like has already been mentioned(driveshaft, halfshafts, transmissions, differentials, clutch). I have already had to replace a flywheel and clutch with less than 5000mi on my modded engine. Is there a particular reason you have settled on 500whp. I would say that 400whp is much more reasonable for a street car unless you just have really deep pockets. You also need to be more carefull with more power. 500whp will take you right into a ditch if your careless.
10-12-2012, 12:44 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
11-20-2012, 02:35 PM
#23
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I don't see 500 RWHP and driveline upgrades happening under any circumstances with that budget. Maybe if you sourced your parts carefully and did everything yourself, but even then it would be tight.
It would be interesting to see the costs involved on some of our forum's LS swaps though.
It would be interesting to see the costs involved on some of our forum's LS swaps though.
11-21-2012, 08:25 AM
#24
Le Mans Master
I mentioned repainting my Corvette to my mom when I took her out for lunch one day, and she asked if it was worth it. I told her none of it is worth it, it's a car not an investment but I like it. That being said, if I can ever score a cheap LS block it might be cheaper for me to fly you up to Tulsa than try to duplicate your work! 
If you're going for cheap HP there is something to be said for the LSx block, the expensive part is getting the LSx and getting it in your car.
11-21-2012, 11:06 AM
#26
Le Mans Master
You can always try this http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...n/viewall.html
Ls engines are getting cheaper. I payed 1200 for an entire running engine, PCM and wiring. there is a guy down the street with a 4.8 for $200 (needs to be rebuild but was running).
11-21-2012, 07:54 PM
#27
Le Mans Master
A few years ago, and looking at all the "budget build" magazine articles, I would have scoffed at 10 grand for a motor that "just" cranks out 450-500 hp. Intake to oil pan, I am creeping up on the $10,000 mark for a 383. I thought I was going to be ahead of the game somehow and come out on top like those magazine budget deals. Nope. That's including every-single-thing required for it to run, but still.
ZZ4 crate motors are $6,500 area? Still have to toss your own FI on top and ignition components. Someone on here got one and tore it down and found a lot of unwanted residue on the cylinder walls. So you don't know what you're getting even with that brand new engine. As a DIYer, an LS swap is what I would do. However, I've seen some horror stories of guys taking off the valve covers or oil pan and finding unmentioned horrors during purchase. Dice roll there as well.
I recommend tpi421vette as well: he's extremely patient and working with him, you get to pay as you can towards the build. Sure beats saving 10 grand then blowing it all at once. There's no way I would be able to do that, and it's a lot less painful to hemorrhage it over a few years.
ZZ4 crate motors are $6,500 area? Still have to toss your own FI on top and ignition components. Someone on here got one and tore it down and found a lot of unwanted residue on the cylinder walls. So you don't know what you're getting even with that brand new engine. As a DIYer, an LS swap is what I would do. However, I've seen some horror stories of guys taking off the valve covers or oil pan and finding unmentioned horrors during purchase. Dice roll there as well.
I recommend tpi421vette as well: he's extremely patient and working with him, you get to pay as you can towards the build. Sure beats saving 10 grand then blowing it all at once. There's no way I would be able to do that, and it's a lot less painful to hemorrhage it over a few years.
11-25-2012, 07:23 PM
#28
Instructor
In my opinion,
You wouldn't be able to put all that power to the ground.
Torque is what you want to build. Torque comes in earlier than HP anyway.
You would be best served doing suspension/tire/wheel mods, then building an engine for it.
Sit back and ask yourself what you want the car to do.
Why did you buy the thing in the first place? Great corner carver?
Do you want a drag car? a road racer? a car for long distance cruising?
Look at your neighborhood gas pump, read the price per gallon, and then rethink
what you want out of the car.
If you want a drag car, gas prices have no bearing. If that is the case, then no griping about the cost per gallon.
If you want a road racer, same thing.
But if you want to be comfortable in traffic, have air, go to your distant cousin's house occasionally, build it mild.
With a mild 383, I can hardly keep the tires from spinning as is.
I estimate my HP to be around 360-370 with torque around 420.
Use that as a yardstick.
Course my rear tires are a couple years old.
And I couldn't keep the tires on the ground when they were new.
I need to switch to 307 rear, as the power band is 1000 RPM above the cruising RPM of 1700-1800 at 75-80 mph.
Just shifting down really helps, but I need to be about 500 RPM closer to the power band entry RPM.
You wouldn't be able to put all that power to the ground.
Torque is what you want to build. Torque comes in earlier than HP anyway.
You would be best served doing suspension/tire/wheel mods, then building an engine for it.
Sit back and ask yourself what you want the car to do.
Why did you buy the thing in the first place? Great corner carver?
Do you want a drag car? a road racer? a car for long distance cruising?
Look at your neighborhood gas pump, read the price per gallon, and then rethink
what you want out of the car.
If you want a drag car, gas prices have no bearing. If that is the case, then no griping about the cost per gallon.
If you want a road racer, same thing.
But if you want to be comfortable in traffic, have air, go to your distant cousin's house occasionally, build it mild.
With a mild 383, I can hardly keep the tires from spinning as is.
I estimate my HP to be around 360-370 with torque around 420.
Use that as a yardstick.
Course my rear tires are a couple years old.
And I couldn't keep the tires on the ground when they were new.
I need to switch to 307 rear, as the power band is 1000 RPM above the cruising RPM of 1700-1800 at 75-80 mph.
Just shifting down really helps, but I need to be about 500 RPM closer to the power band entry RPM.
11-26-2012, 07:52 PM
#29
a couple of options...
but only 350 hp. However the ramjet is all brand new stuff, not junkyard or rebuilt by some hack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ram-Jet-350-...8c3aa6&vxp=mtr or you could go http://paceperformance.com/i-7439756...ine-9-0-1.html .
