I have a bone stock 1993 (auto). I've had the car for about 5 months. 48k miles.

After looking at available options for more go power...I'm of the opinion that spray will be best for what I'd like to do. The car is my daily driver and I'm simply looking for more power when I make the occasional trip to the local drag strip.

So far...here are the parts I've selected. I'm open to input on what I've picked out:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-80010-15/

NX Direct Port system w/ a 15lb bottle

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-18959/

NX RPM activated window switch

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-15718/

NX fuel pressure safety switch

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-15940/

NX bottle warmer

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-11169/

Aeromotive 340 fuel pump

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13106/

Aeromotive GM LT-1 fuel pressure regulator

Ok....here's where I start to get a little confused. I'm assuming that I need a way to power the nitrous system and bottle warmer on and off. Would this do the trick?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-15896/

NX accessory / power switch panel

Moving right along, obviously I only want to be on the juice at WOT. I'll also need this, right?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-15961/

NX throttle position activation switch

Am I missing anything as far as the nitrous and fuel systems are concerned?

Moving right along, as I understand it I'll need a way to retard the timing if I'm planning on anything more than a 100 shot. Assuming that eventually I'd like to dial the system up to 150 or 200...what would I need to retard the timing? Would this do the trick and what if anything as far as ignition components should I also purchase?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6421/

MSD 6AL-2 ignition box

Mostly...I don't want to dork around with the system much or have to call Summitt Racing over and over again to get "just one more part". I'd prefer to get everything required in one single order, install it, and be done with it other than the occasional trip to have the bottle refilled.

In any case, I'm very much open to suggestions and input. If possible...when parts are going to be recommended please include a link. Thanks in advance!!

 

Give Nitrous Outlet a call. Tell them exactly what you want to do and they will tell you exactly what you need. Great customer service and helpful guys.

 

Thanks.

 

Ran an NX (Wet) nitrous system for years on my 93. Didnt cause any issues to the car whatsoever. In fact, im still running the same bottom end on my forced induction car.

Ran an 11.8 at 121 MPH w/ 100 shot on my heads cam 6spd car.


Got tired of the nitrous because it annoyed me that max power was always with a full bottle.

Even when using a bottle heater to heat a half-full to same PSI as a full bottle when spraying, it still makes less power. It has to do with how much liquid nitrous is compressed in the bottle and available to flash into a vapor once it gets into your intake.

Its almost like it'd be if you car made less power on a 1/4 tank of gas than it did on a full tank of gas. Wouldnt that be annoying?

That was the reasons why I ditched the nitrous and went forced induction.

Though I will say the nitrous was cheaper (initial system install cost).

Its taken me 2 years to get my forced induction dialed in, but its reliable in the sense I dont need to mess with it.

Ive heard of people here having issues the instant they step up from a 100 shot to a 150 shot. Breaking ring lands, detonation, etc.

I think the weak link is the stock fuel pump. I put in a walbro 255 l/hr for insurance's sake.

 

The NANO nitrous system cures that problem by keeping the bottle pressure constant is great.

 

http://nano-nitrous.com/howitworks.shtml



Ah, ok. seems like a solution to what I was complaining about. very interesting. To the OP: Consider something like this or else you will be disappointed with nitrous flow drop-off.

Note: I am not talk about continously spraying nitrous until you have an empty bottle (thats not realistic).

Nitrous mass flow drop off occurs even at the start of the flows on anything less than a full bottle.

Now, I was using a single 10 lb bottle. Ive heard if you use 2 10lb bottles plumbed together or a bigger bottle (ex. 15lb) then this issue does decrease somewhat.

 

That's a neat solution.

In regards to a forced induction setup...that would be my 1st choice. However, I simply don't have the funds for a proper blower from Blowerworks. Eventually...but not quite yet.

As an aside, has anyone used one of these on a naturally aspirated, nitrous oxide setup? From what I can see, it looks like it would help control potential detonation issues.

http://www.snowperformance.net/chevr...e-c4-1984-1996

 

The idea of that would be to reduce the intake air temperature for blowers and turbos. Compressing air heats the air.

Not an issue with NOS. In fact when the Nitrous changes from liquid to gas, it will drop the intake air temperature.

To avoid detonation, use the recommended jets for your kit, run high octane fuel back your timing 4 deg, and you will be fine.

I wouldn't bother with the bottle warmer.