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when I was driving last friday and the key got stuck so I couldnt turn off the car, I could twist it forward enough to start it but a couldnt twist it back to turn it off.
so I had to change the lock cyl. when I took apart the colum I realized the wires were cut and I then I found the resister at the other end. I left it like that because I still had to order a new key from chevy. So it starts with the new cyl. in there and then I clean up and put all my tools away.
later I go to start it and nothing but the click of a relay ?
Sure it is that relay?
If it is ,then key / resistor is not your problem because correct resistance has to be seen for VATS to operate the starter relay.
Always possibly the relay itself is faulty and not passing power to starter?
Remove relay , jumper the starter wires in the connector and see if it makes any difference
Sure it is that relay?
If it is ,then key / resistor is not your problem because correct resistance has to be seen for VATS to operate the starter relay.
Always possibly the relay itself is faulty and not passing power to starter?
Remove relay , jumper the starter wires in the connector and see if it makes any difference
I jumpered the wires and nothing but i hear a click of another relay up in the engine area.
i hear a click of another relay up in the engine area.
Possibly fuel pump or MAF relay?
Originally Posted by jesse_c4
I jumpered the wires and nothing .
On the starter relay connector you jumpered do you have 12V on one wire with key in start position?
If not ;no power from Ign switch .
If power , then problem is down stream of starter relay , P/N switch, etc
Have you put 12V direct to the solenoid terminal on the starter to confirm starter actually works?
Is the click in the engine compartment the starter solenoid? If so, you've got a bad connection somewhere in the battery cables (check both ends) or the solenoid itself could have bad contacts.
Most likely you are hearing the starter solenoid click on the starter motor. At the end of the solenoid stroke, two large copper contacts are forced together that switch 12v to the starter motor. These contacts switch several hundred amps and become blackened and pitted and eventually they don't make a low resistance connection required to supply the starter motor adequite current. One test you can try is to keep hitting the crank position over and over and you may get the starter motor to crank. This bangs the contacts together and may eventually make a good contact. This happened to me at work and it took 20 tries to get the starter to work. I replaced the starter, but you can buy replacement copper contacts if you want to repair your starter motor.
It is nice to finally spend a whole day in the garage. I got her running !
turns out it was a starter and a wire short to ground.
I had the starter from my 1985 parts car on the shelf in my garage so i swapped it out. still wouldnt start....
but it turned over. had no pressure at the rail.
fuel pump had power but no signal. the ecu wasnt powering the fuel pump turns out the ecu had no power. to the fuse panel checked good.
turns out going to the fuse panel the wire short causing .