96 C4 not starting
#1
96 C4 not starting
Ok, I've been having trouble starting for about two weeks. When I would turn the key the starter would click but not turn the engine over. I'd wait for a min and it would start. So I figured my starter was going. Yesterday started fine no prob omw to the range, I went to the bank first and bam nothing when I got back into my car. No click nothing at all. So today I changed out the starter(pain in the butt) and still nothing. Any sugestions would be fantastic.
#2
Well, you should have done a little troubleshooting first... You can jump the starter using a set of jumper cables to see if it is working from underneath the car. That's what I would have done first. Since that wasn't it, it could be the ignition switch or the solenoid on the starter. Did you replace the solenoid, too or just the starter?
#3
I replaced the whole darn thing. Is the solenoid attached to the starter? If so then I replaced it. I jumped the old starter after I got it out and it clicks but won't spin or anything. Not too familiar with these new cars. I tried to reset the security system but that did not work either.
#4
Well, crap. You're going to need to troubleshoot the electrical system. I'll have to let the more knowledgeable guys help you with that one. I'd need the book or do search on here to figure that one out. The only thing I can think of off the top of my head that might help is to see if you're getting 12 volts at the solenoid when the key is turned. Other than that, I'd suggest tearing into the steering wheel, but that's no fun and I wouldn't want you to go to that trouble without verifying the problem is there first. Good luck!
#5
thanks for the advice. Nothing can be worse than replacing that optispark. Had to do that last year. Gonna get back out there and tinker. Thanks again for the quick response.
#6
Le Mans Master
I am assuming that you have checked/clean all related grounds.
That the battery is good, well charged
That the battery terminals are solid and tight. This is the one I had trouble with awhile back. I would get the occasional click, and sometimes an all black condition. Found that my negative battery terminal had gotten cross threaded. It would feel tight, but wasn't make a full connection all the time. Replaced it, no trouble since.
That the battery is good, well charged
That the battery terminals are solid and tight. This is the one I had trouble with awhile back. I would get the occasional click, and sometimes an all black condition. Found that my negative battery terminal had gotten cross threaded. It would feel tight, but wasn't make a full connection all the time. Replaced it, no trouble since.
#7
Yessum. All batt conections look good and I replaced the batt about a month ago. I even threw a jumpbox on it to try and see if that would help. I'm out here now trying to find my volt meter to see if I'm getting juice to the starter with the key on. I'm gonna double check my install.
#9
Nope don't know nothing aboot that. I did try my other set of keys and remote but still got nothing. I checked for power to the starter and on the small post I'm not getting anything even with the ignition on. I'm sure I could redneck my way around it like I do with my old cars but I'd rather do this right.
#10
Have you checked the fuses yet? Wondering if you might have shorted something while changing the starter that may have blown a fuse. Just trying to think of anything that might be helpful...
#13
Melting Slicks
with the car in the air, and in neutral, take a long wire, one end on the battery positive, and touch the small terminal on the starter. It should start; if not, no juice in the big battery cable; or, internal open in the solenoid starter, or negative cable from battery to ground not making contact / completing circuit.
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Oh USA
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The ign lock has two contacts that connect to the pellet in the ign key and they don't last forever. You can unplug the two wires that come down from above the steering column and measure the resistance with the ign key in and it should measure the same as the pellet resistance in your key.
#15
Didn't even check for that.I have several sets of keys and they all had the same resistance so i figured the key was good. I used a resistor the same as my key and some wire to loop that and it works great for now.
#16
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It takes a good connection to the key pellet!
It is my understanding that you cannot keep a fixed resistor connected all the time as the later C4's require the key to be removed when the engine is turned off before you can restart it. That is what I have read.
It is my understanding that you cannot keep a fixed resistor connected all the time as the later C4's require the key to be removed when the engine is turned off before you can restart it. That is what I have read.
#17
my mech said the same thing but it seems to be working just fine. Been driving it around for the past couple of days without issue. I'll let y'all know if i run into any issues but it seems to be a good temp fix until i have time to replace the ignition lock or whatever it is i need to replace.
#18
Melting Slicks
I have mine in my 91 for weeks at a time and it worked just fine..