Alignment necessary or not?
My question is regarding the spindle (camber) rods. I scribed a mark on them when I disassembled them do you think it is necessary to get a rear wheel alignment? I hate taking my car in for any work as I don't trust any of the shops around here (Massachusetts).
I was thinking of just putting a bubble level against the face of both rear tires and seeing if they have the same tilt (hopefully a little
- camber).
What do you think?
I can assure you that the best effort to find the old alignment will be somewhat off....
I did some work on mine and now battle excess camber and toe...so its going In this month. Only takes 1/2 turn to screw up toe and camber is even more sensitive.





If you are having difficulty finding a reputable shop, perhaps you can contact a Corvette Club in your area. The members usually have all the info on who does good work.
I work closely with the Just Tires store in my area. They have the latest equipment. Their alignment rack is a Hunter and is only a year old. Most of the employees have been in this store for many years. The manager is personable and knows his business.
As with many other industries, we must do our due diligence when servicing our Vettes.
with 383Do your own. It may take a little time but it's not that hard. I used a digital level (cheap at any home improvement store) and a cut-to-fit angle iron to measure camber/caster.
Forget the "Toe and Go" alignment shops! It's way to easy for the shop trick the alignment machine for your pretty alignment printout. How many shops take the extra time to make sure your suspension is fully settled by not jacking it?
with 383Do your own. It may take a little time but it's not that hard. I used a digital level (cheap at any home improvement store) and a cut-to-fit angle iron to measure camber/caster.
Forget the "Toe and Go" alignment shops! It's way to easy for the shop trick the alignment machine for your pretty alignment printout. How many shops take the extra time to make sure your suspension is fully settled by not jacking it?


I bring my vette to an alignment place that has the drive on rollers similar to a dyno. that way the suspension is in its natural settled state. They will jack the car up to check the suspension then drive it around the block and drive it onto the rollers. It works great she drives straight on her own and i do not have any vibration
I see the first picture with the angle iron and bubble levels, which to me would be for camber (although how do you know how much you have +/-). Are the bubble levels special?
The other pictures look like toe but I am not sure.
I remember back in the 80's there was a self alignment setup you could purchase called The Hit Man Alignment.
It was pricey at that time.
But if your method works I would appreciate it if you could tell me how you do it.
P.S. It is not a matter of me being cheap not taking it to an alignment shop. I just don't trust them.
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I see the first picture with the angle iron and bubble levels, which to me would be for camber (although how do you know how much you have +/-). Are the bubble levels special?
The other pictures look like toe but I am not sure.
I remember back in the 80's there was a self alignment setup you could purchase called The Hit Man Alignment.
It was pricey at that time.
But if your method works I would appreciate it if you could tell me how you do it.
P.S. It is not a matter of me being cheap not taking it to an alignment shop. I just don't trust them.
I'm with you there. It's not always to save $$$ (although a few free dinners doesn't hurt). The camber gauge in the picture has a dial from +5 degrees to -5 degrees in 1/8 degree increments. If you want .5 degrees negative, you dial that amount in on the gauge and change the camber until the bubble is in the middle. The bar I use is to set the rear thrust to make sure the rear wheels are both pointed straight forward. The toe gauge is the long rod with the setscrew to adjust toe. This is used on the front and rear wheels. After I'm done, I know things are correct and not just "within specs".
I'm with you there. It's not always to save $$$ (although a few free dinners doesn't hurt). The camber gauge in the picture has a dial from +5 degrees to -5 degrees in 1/8 degree increments. If you want .5 degrees negative, you dial that amount in on the gauge and change the camber until the bubble is in the middle. The bar I use is to set the rear thrust to make sure the rear wheels are both pointed straight forward. The toe gauge is the long rod with the setscrew to adjust toe. This is used on the front and rear wheels. After I'm done, I know things are correct and not just "within specs".













