I hope to be retired and a proud first time owner of a beautiful 1995 Corvette. But I'm told it has a few problems, the first two of which are not issues. The third scares me, the owner says she never locks the doors because when the factory alarm/anti-thieft system is activated the car will not start for 30 minutes or so. What could this be?

I have not driven the car, expect to do so in the next few days.

 

The factory alarm has nothing to do with stopping the car from starting. I suspect she has an aftermarket system installed, which may be having problems. When you check out the car, look at the remote fob. A factory fob looks like this:
coupe http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-96-C4-Cor...ea34dd&vxp=mtr

or convertable http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORVETTE-C-4...ba6a69&vxp=mtr

note the buttons do say say "lock" or "unlock". If the fob she shows you does not look like this, it is not a factory alarm system (so hopefully it should be easy to remove).

 

There is a separate system that could prevent starting if it was acting up. The VATS system has resistors on the sides of the key, and if the wrong resistor value is detected, the car will not start. If it is the VATS system causing the problem, the car will not turn over at all. This can happen, and can be intermitent. It is not tied to locking the doors, but could seem to be if you were grasping for answers. Sometimes the problem can be fixed by cleaning the resistors with an eraser or alcohol. Sometimes getting a new key is the answer. Worst case is the ignition would have to be replaced. Again, if the car won't start but cranks, it is not the VATS system.

 

WOW, thanks I think with your comments I have some focus when I get it checked out. I'm like a kid in a candy factory and I hope to have a Corvette in my life for a long time.

 

Typo. Factory fobs do not say lock and unlock

 

Get back with us once you test drive it and check out what she is talking about. She may not be accurately describing the problem.

 

While you are waiting you might enjoy becoming familiar with the C4s. Here is an owners manual for you to look at:
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/download...95corvette.pdf

Suggest you read the section on the parking brake before you look at the car (seriously).

When you pick up your C4 (whether it is this one ot the next one) open a thread and let us know. They have several "unique" aspects we can bring you up to speed on.

Good luck

 

Unless you're looking for a project to occupy your time, and need something to spend your savings on...keep looking. There are plenty of late C4's out there to choose from without "issues" like these. JMHO

The VATS has nothing to do with door locks, and the delay/ reset time is less than 30 minutes. So there is more to this story than what she says. Hence, my suggestion to keep lookin'.

 

They're ALL going to have some issues at 20 yrs old....some more than others. None are hopeless or uncommon.

VATS and its occasional disfunction can easily be traced and repaired. If nothing else, there is a VATS bypass available that can be installed for a cost of $15 and this eliminated VATS entirely. I prefer to have the security of VATS in my Corvette even though it has caused me to sit in a parking lot for several hours...

If the car is clean, documented maint records and the owner is not a neck-car wanna be, buy it if you like it. Its just parts. They are available and the Corvette community is unlike ANY other band of brothers out there...even vets. There is plently of help, guidence and support. We stick together and between those here in this group, someone has had and succssfully dealt with every potential problem that you can imagine. These are complex mechines and they have complex parts that require special attention and tools sometimes but its available. When you buy a Corvette, its not a car or an investment, its an attitude. When you find one that "grabs" you....go for it. Worst case you learn from it, sell it and move into another. A LOT like a marraige....some require more attention than others but they are ALL good the first few months...(days?)..(nites!)

 

Check fuel pressure, should be in the range of 38 to 42 PSI. No fuel pressure, bad inline filter pssibly, bad fuel pump, loss of fuel pump relay under passenger dash or bad oil pressure sensor with fuel pump switch built in. Oil pressure and switch contacts close allowing voltage to FP, does oil pressure come up on dash as you are aggressively turning over the engine? There is also the possibility of a blown fuse. With a car that has been exposed to the elements for a long period I would bet on an electrical problem to the fuel pump. Pump is easy to remove in one piece from top of tank and can be bench tested. That said now go after the ignition module coil and next the Optispark. Check high voltage coil wire with a spark gap tester. Remeber only 3 things are required for engine operation, fuel, ignition and air input. Suspect you will find mud in the radiator the result of mixing Dexcool with Green (ethylene glycol) anti freeze. Flush and or replace radiator. Good luck.