When it will start I'll give it 100 or 200 miles and change oil again.. just to be safe. I'll see what it looks like after visual inspection though. Might be necessary to change sooner.

Yeah I was going to pull Fuel pump fuse and crank it for few seconds with throttle wide open for a couple of times. I feel that it might dry cylinders from that gas in them and oil everything in engine. Could help to start.. At this point I don't know

Pulling all the plugs.. I will do that as well later. And today I was thinking of changing them cause when I changed the OPTI with wires I didn't change the plugs. Could that be those 8mm TAYLOR wires are not as OEM and something causing this situation?

Now I'm thinking that engine was flooded with gas (almost 5 gallons) and vacuum lines too.. could this be a reason for no start?

At this point I don't know what is going on.. bad OPTI again? (OPTI is 5 months old, Delphi unit with original Mitsubishi sensor. It should last.) What else could cause this no start?

Hmmm.. if there was a gas in vacuum lines could there be blockage and it can't regulate fuel pressure?

 

I'm thinking, that if you had 5 gallons in the crank case, that there is more to this than the FPR. I've read similar threads where this much fuel in the crankcase is typically the result of an injector stuck open, or multiple leaking injectors. In other words, the FPR may have been the symptom and the injectors the problem. If an injector is leaking or stuck open, it keeps flowing fuel into the cylinder, flooding it, then your engine. How long did your system hold pressure after you turned the key to the off position. It should hold for roughly about 30 min. declining gradually.

If it held, then it's probably not the injectors as it would leak down. So then I would say that the plugs might be saturated still. I would go ahead and change them, why not? And the 8mm wires are fine, they would not cause any issue.

 

Did you actual measure 5 gallons from the draining or was it a guess?

Don’t go off into left field before you fix the immediate problems. Change the oil, FPR, and check for fuel leaks.

I would take off the coil wire and tap the starter (with ignition key) several times to see if it will turn over normally. Or, turn the crank by hand with a breaker bar on the hub nut slowly.

FPRs go bad all the time where fuel comes back on the vacuum line. Happened to me twice now which only cause hard starting due to it being too rich. After shutdown a few ozs of fuel come out till stops when pressure goes down. When I start the engine it all gets burned up and the cycle starts again after shutdown.

A similar scenario might happen with a stuck open injector but fuel in the oil will evaporate when the engine gets to temperature.

Seems like you would have to have constant fuel pressure for a long time with no engine start to get that much fuel in the oil which does not seem like a likely condition.

 

I had a jar for recycled oil and it is 5 gallons. There was a little les that a gallon already. So it was a scientific guess. I would say about 4 1/2 gallons of oil/gas mixture.

But I'm sure it was from leaking FPR cause I was trying to start it for along time and I was cycling ON and OFF ignition to see if my pump is working and find where is the leak from.. This is how it end up in engine.


It turns ok now, but it doesn't catch.. maybe a little at one moment and it goes in cycles. I will try to remove the wire from coil and fuse for the fuel pump to see it rotates smooth.

I did turn the hub that's how I loosened it up and I think just oiled it so it would turn now.

Mine was spraying non stop and only God knows how long.. When I was trying to start the car I didn't check FPR vacuum line. And It was a long time though.

I don't know about this gas.. but I've noticed that when I was trying to start the car few days ago some of that fuel spit ouy the intake manifold and on MAF. So there is still a puddle of that fuel.. few days and it is still there. Maybe there was a lot of water in that gasoline or something.

 

We conneted this tool to measure pressure and connection on the tool was not very good, but tightened it was showing 40psi for about 20 minutes I guess. Didn't measure the time, but it was while we diagnosed the engine. Roughly 20 minutes before we disconnected it. By the time we disconnected it was about 39 maybe.

Now I found spark plugs that they carry in my local autoparts store. It's Denso and NGK Platinum's and NGK Iridium. Thinking which to get. Is there really a big difference in them? MPG and power..

 

Well that’s quite a story. Just change out all the items discussed and take it from there.

 

I've typically used the AC/Delco 14 rapid fires, have had the NGK's as well. Asl ong as they're the right heat range, it's not a big deal.

One question about when you measured the fuel pressure, You said it held about 20 min while you were diagnosing the engine. Was that 20 min with the key completely off? Because if you had the key in the on position, the pump was still pressurizing the line.

 

This time I've got DENSO Platinum TT with gap 0.050.
The AC Delco ones looked like they were made in china so I chose Denso. They had NGK but gap was different.

Now you asked about fuel pressure measurement and I'm not sure I think that was with key completely off. But at some point I had to turn key to ON to check injectors, but I think it was more like 15 minutes later. I would have to double check the pressure. I'll borrow pressure gauge again.


Today I removed all the plugs and disconnected the main cable that goes to OPTI, removed fuse for fuel pump and gave it about a minute of spin in total. It was rotating normal which means that there is no mechanical damage. There is a spark in coil. ( I connected the cable from coil to engine so that spark would hit the engine, I was afraid that I could damage the coil while cranking without the wire )

Upon vusual inspection I've noticed that 2 plugs were cracked and rest of them just I guess old. AcDelco plugs.

I installed new ones and connected everything. I had my intake "pipe" with MAF resting on the A/C dryer but not connected to the intake.
Car started right up but was dying quickly. Disconnecting the MAF solved the problem.
And even after that it was not stable, dying and I disconnected vacuum hoses that go to FPR and all some that are around it. It was idling.

First after I started the car I had WHITE smoke coming out of the pipes. It was superbad! ChooChoovette.. But few minutes of idle and 1 full can of Intake cleaner while idling.. solved the smoke. Though it was changing color from opaque white to white-bluish and then gray and then a little bit of black.. then disappeared but it still smells like synthetic something.. WHen I rev it up - no smoke ( I guess good sign).
My new oil kinda smells a little like gas. I guess just need to change it soon.

Connected vacuum hoses and it started to idle very rough.. so disconnected and connected again it still idles rough, but not as bad as it was.

What I have now.
Whit new FPR and plugs I can hear that engine sounds meaner but it idles rough and smells like something synthetic.

Now I'm guessing that gas residue in vacuum lines makes it idle rough and not always. When I rev it - it idles ok for a sec or two then again starts jumping.

How can I clean the vacuum system? Or maybe it is not vacuum system...
I'm glad that it fired up but afraid to drive it now. I don't want to cause any damage or something.

 

I would check the fuel pressure with the vacuum hose on. With no running on the 2 second prime, it should read about 40-43. With running about 35-38, and revving it should go to about 40 or so. That should tell all.

Make sure the temperature sensor in the water pump is connected. Check the digital temp gauge to see if it is reading correctly.

Make sure all vacuum lines are connected and not broken.

The cats and muffler might be loaded up with gas and oil and needs to burn out.

Hopefully the O2s are OK but don't come into effect till closed loop. So for now it's a don't care, you have to get it running in open loop and idling properly first.

 

Still had no chance to check fuel pressure yet.

Temp sensor in water pump connected and reads correct temperature. Analog as well. They both work.

Vacuum lines are connected and no signs of cracks or holes. When i disconnect any line i hear sssssssssss so vacuum is working. But now i'm thinking maybe not as strong as it should be..

Smell dissipates gradually with time. So, getting better.

I hope O2s are ok ) but there still maybe an oil on them which should burn out.

Yesterday drove it home. And for most part it drove ok even with some kick and sound. But ocassionaly just not as good. And idle sometimes rough but not chaotic more like in tune rough. I would say it idles like dodge viper now. ( dont mean to hurt viper admirers )
On the way home when i floored it check engine came on and fan was working. When i came home turned off the engine and started again.. There is no check engine light, but this is what it does now:

Started the engine
idles rough
there is a little of black smoke in pipes, like evaporation. (too rich on gas)
A minute or two later:
Vapor canister motor makes a quick whizzzz and at the same time
Rpm climbs up for a sec
Fan kicks in
Check engine light is on and
Idle is smooth
No black smoke.

What is it??? I've never had vapor canister make any sound while i drive. Only after start for maybe a minute sometimes.

And this! When I disconnect vacuum hose from FPR nothing changes in car idle. Is it normal?

 

Need to check the code that is triggering the check engine light. That will lead you in the direction you need to go. Until then, at this point, there is really no way to tell. There are so many sensors and systems on these things that can cause this type of thing. Big thing is that it seems like the fuel system is working.

The one clue I see is when you said that the car ran better when you disconnected the MAF. This has alot to to do with air/fuel mixture. Get some maf sensor cleaner from the auto parts store, follow directions and see what goes from there. While you're there, they can check that code for you.

 

In addition to, I was going to suggest checking the canister and the lines to it to see if any have fluid in them where they should only have vacuum applied to them.

Also check the PVC valve and the line to it.

And you will probably not see any change in the idle when you pull the vacuum line off the FPR. The pressure should go up about 3-5 lbs or so but you will not notice a change. It's probably a bit richer but still within a good A/F ratio.

 

I sprayed my MAF even the first time before assembly with MAF cleaner. But just in case cleaned it again today. Didn't change much.
But I was able to retrieve codes that gives a clue.

Checked PVC lines they seemed dry but dried them with compressed air just in case. Canister lines seems fine.

All right this is what was going on for few days and what I was able to find out.

Next day after sparkplugs. Idle is still not smooth and very chaotic. Occasionally some light smoke out the pipes while I drive. And I had check engine light come on while drive, but during that time it drove OK.

Next day after that. I had to take her on highway and there I've noticed power loss. During my trip I had check engine light come on and after few second off. I had it on INST ECONOMY and driving 75MPH it showed me 13MPG but when CHECK ENGINE light came on I had 21MPG same speed! Then CHECK ENGINE light off and back to 13MPG (which is very high MPG for 75MPH). And power loss tremendous sometimes. It was challenging driving up the ramp from standstill. So not CORVETTE.

So this CHECK ENGINE light with fan on - is a LIMP MODE. And limp mode is on when reading of some sensors are out off the range. Good clue that some sensor isn't working.

Next day I was able to read all codes and clear them using paperclip method. But i felt that car was doing better every day. I almost not had check engine light, but idle was rough and loss of power, for example when I accelerate it wouldn't go over 3-4 rpm and sounds like bucking and spitting.

Codes retrieved:

1. (CCM module)
C12: No codes present currently
---

4. (Powertrain Control Module)
H48: Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit.
H64: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Lean.
---

9. (ABS/ASR module)
H64: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Lean.
H65: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Rich.
A.(Dynamic Energy Control Module --- the air bag control module)
---

H - stands for HISTORY. C - stands for CURRENT.

After I cleared the codes. It drove and idled perfect for first maybe almost a minute.. then same story. Rough Idle, but not rough as before. And Since I reset the codes I had CHECK ENGINE light came on maybe only once.

So after I cleared the codes next day I checked it again and now it just shows code

H64 in PCM.


Could that be that this heavy smoke stuck on O2 sensors and makes it give wrong reading? Will it burn off eventually?
If this is a O2 sensor replacement. Should I replace both at the same time? It seems that it specifies that this is RightFront sensor.

And after this smoke that went through pipes, is there any known way to clean CATs inside? I dont know if anything is wrong with them, but just wild guess that maybe oil/gas stuck on Platinum plates and they don't work. Cause I do have some ****** smell out of the pipe, but that could be from wrong mixture..

All right It all comes down to O2 sensors or still Injectors are not ruled out I guess. MAF don't show any codes.

 

May be water,the white smoke is a indication of water

 

Have you had the time to get a o card hookup? Most auto stores will bo this for free u might find a resolve to your problem instead of guess ing.

 

PG, you are replying to a 7 y.o. post