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Hello,
I finished my brake conversion on my 87 to the J55 big brake package with new rotors, pads, stainless braided brake hoses, and new Grand Sport calipers.
I took it out last night for the first time since the conversion, to test and bed the new brakes. It does seem to stop faster, but it wants to pull hard to the left when you first apply the brakes initially then it is o.k. Like one side is catching before the other , does that sound right?
Is there something I am missing, everything seems to be fine ...no leaks or anything.
That is not correct. Check for a kinked brake line on the side that delays. Also check for a internally swelled rubber line. Look for something that would cause a delay in fluid movement.
Hello,
I finished my brake conversion on my 87 to the J55 big brake package with new rotors, pads, stainless braided brake hoses, and new Grand Sport calipers.
I took it out last night for the first time since the conversion, to test and bed the new brakes. It does seem to stop faster, but it wants to pull hard to the left when you first apply the brakes initially then it is o.k. Like one side is catching before the other , does that sound right?
Is there something I am missing, everything seems to be fine ...no leaks or anything.
Any help or ideas appreciated.
The brackets and adapters came from where? With essentially new hydraulics everywhere it seems it needs to be "hardware" related in so much as the left rotor is maybe "dragging" and the apply to the left side brake is of course more rapid and resulting in "pull". If it were dragging, the pad and rotor would be already "hot" resulting in a more aggressive nature compared to "cold" right side.
I had this problem on my 87. Turned out the ABS module (located behind the driver seat) was bad. Replaced it with a second hand unit and problem cleared up. Not saying this is THE problem you have, but add it to the list of things to consider.
My wife also mentioned to me while we were bleeding the brakes that the pedal was harder to push when the front right side bleed valve was open and the pedal was easier to push when the front left bleed valve was open.
I checked the lines and hoses and nothing is kinked...so is it possible to have a clog somewhere. Both wheels spin freely when car is jacked up although you can here the pads barely touching the rotors as the wheels spin, but I wouldn't consider it dragging, since the wheels spin freely. The brackets are from C.C.
Just trying to diagnose before I have to buy any possible parts.
Thanks
Last edited by 87vettevert; Dec 9, 2012 at 10:56 AM.
My wife also mentioned to me while we were bleeding the brakes that the pedal was harder to push when the front right side bleed valve was open and the pedal was easier to push when the front left bleed valve was open.
I checked the lines and hoses and nothing is kinked...so is it possible to have a clog somewhere. Both wheels spin freely when car is jacked up although you can here the pads barely touching the rotors as the wheels spin, but I wouldn't consider it dragging, since the wheels spin freely. The brackets are from C.C.
Just trying to diagnose before I have to buy any possible parts.
Thanks
You were on the wrench end doing the bleeding so it would seem you would have seen diminished performance when bleeding the right side. Maybe you actually have a bad "new" RF hose or a caliper hydraulic issue!
Still had the same issue before the conversion, was kind of hoping that it would have gone away afterword...but that was not the reason for the conversion.
I did not see any air bubbles or anything out of the ordinary, but she said the pedal was really hard to push when the bleeder was open.
I hope that the hoses are not bad, they are brand new and made in USA by cssb.
Still had the same issue before the conversion, was kind of hoping that it would have gone away afterword...but that was not the reason for the conversion.
I did not see any air bubbles or anything out of the ordinary, but she said the pedal was really hard to push when the bleeder was open.
I hope that the hoses are not bad, they are brand new and made in USA by cssb.
So your problem actually isn't or doesn't seem to be related at all to the reason you mention "AFTER CONVERSION BRAKES PULL HARD LEFT" - Seems you need to do some basic brake hydraulic diagnostics.
Wishing your hydraulic problem "away" with the conversion didn't accomplish the "fix" nor should it have been expected to unless you knew you had a hydraulic hose or caliper problem.
I chased the same problem this summer on my 87. I went through every line and fitting. Turned out it was the abs unit, replaced it with a used one. I think some crap got into the check valves of the abs unit.
Since the repair all is good, brakes even and the petal is firm.
I would also suggest trying to make the abs engage during a simulated panic stop, might free up the check valve inside the abs unit. I try a 20 MPH panic stop in a wide open parking lot. If this works I would flush the brake system to clean things up.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
ABS.....Were you pumping the brakes with the ignition on?
Is the pump cycling test occur when you start to roll?
I'd do a check and open the bleeders for a personal comparison.
There might be an obstruction. And there might be a problem with the wheel sensors.
Make sure they're clean and inspect the wiring.
Raise the car and gravity bleed the whole car. Bleed the rears at the same time and then the front. This will take a while but is the best way. If it still has a problem, then there is something wrong with a line/hose. Good luck.
I had no issues with my 85 when i put the J55 adapters and brakes on, like the previous poster said gravity bleeding is a fool proof system.
However the abs module should not interrupt brake bleeding,
The calipers are self centering so it should not be affecting bleeding.
Always a good idea to shock any air in the system prior to bleeding again by stomping hard on the brakes a few times, check you get equal brake fluid coming out per pedal depression.
Another thing to check is how freely each wheel spins and roughly how much pedal travel is required to stop you spinning the wheel by hand.
Also check each wheel spins freely when brake pressure is released in case a caliper piston is jamming.
Also check the caliper bracket is parallel to the disc !! any angle the caliper cannot adjust for.
Good luck hope these hints help you it does sound like some air is in the side opposite to the direction it pulls
I took the car out again today for another test drive after checking everything last night, bleeding again, checked speed sensors, wiring, tire air pressure, and verified the pump cycling test does occur, Also did the 20 mph panic stop to activate ABS today. Brakes seem better, so maybe there is an obstruction somewhere or air still in the line.
I am going to gravity bleed the brakes this weekend to try and get any remaining air out of system.
Thanks again