for all intents and purposes,I'm a novice.Over 25 years CNC machining and i've assembled Harley and Ducati Superbike engines tho.I haven't wrenched seriously in years on cars.

On my new to me '89 i've installed new Baer rotors/pads with remanufactured calipers.I also replaced all 3 parking brake cables.

I am having trouble adjusting the front cable.I released the pawl on the lever but every time i try to pull the lever to set the brake the spring that tensions the cable at the flare fitting just in front of the left rear tire wants to pull through the fork spring.I'm CONFOUNDED as to why this is happening.The fork had to bend a little to slip over the hard pipe at the flare on the front cable and MAYBE this is why it now can slip over the flare end.Or maybe the adjustment screw on the rear calipers is important.I haven't messed with that.


I'll likely give it to the local mechanic but a dedicated Chevy dealer may be more competent with this task.I hope i've given sufficient info regarding my symptom.I could sure use some advice.Pls.

 

Do you have a FSM(factory service manual)? You need to remember these cars don't see the dealer "everyday" and with the vehicles age it's maybe unlikely to find someone that is familiar enough to make a "convenient" diagnosis and "inexpensive" repair/adjustment. The system simply is automatic(in car), that needs to be defeated to service the park brake system then be activated again.

Judging from your experience and comments I believe I'd pick up a FSM and tackle it myself. The FSM is going to be a "wise buy" in the long run anyway.

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FROM FSM:

Parking Brake Automatic Adjuster


PARKING BRAKE
This vehicle is equipped with coated parking brake cable assemblies. The wire strand is coated with a nylon material which slides over plastic seals inside the conduit end fittings. This is for corrosion protection and reduced parking brake effort.

NOTE: Handling of these cables during servicing of the parking brake system requires extra care. Damage to the nylon coating will reduce corrosion protection and if the damaged area passes through the seal, increased parking brake effort could result. Contact of the coating with sharp-edged tools, or with sharp surfaces of the vehicle underbody, should be avoided.

Parking brake lever/cable adjustment is automatic. Cycling the lever three times should result in parking brake lever movement of 3 to 5 notches when a 270 N (61 lbs.) force is applied.

PARKING BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
Disabling the parking brake automatic adjuster is necessary to loosen the parking brake cables for maintenance of the parking brake system. The parking brake automatic adjuster must be enabled and cables adjusted (tightened) after maintenance has been completed.

DISABLING PARKING BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER

1. Remove driver's seat cushion.
2. Remove parking brake lever cover and screws.
3. Using fabricated wire, or an offset screwdriver, hold drive pawl so that it is disengaged from drive sector.
4. Insert a nail, or drift, through the hole in the anchor plate to retain the drive pawl in the disengaged position.
5. Move the parking brake lever until it aligns with lock pawl.
6. Depress button on lever and move lever to down position.
7. Visually inspect to see that anchor plate is against the stud on the parking brake lever. NOTE: If anchor plate is not against stud, repeat procedure as needed.
8. Parking brake front cable can now be pulled to the rear to gain the slack necessary to perform parking brake maintenance.

ENABLING PARKING BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER

1. Remove nail, or drift, from anchor plate.
2. Apply and release parking brake three times.
3. Pull up on parking brake lever. NOTE: Proper lever/cable adjustment will result in the parking brake lever moving up 3 to 5 ratchet clicks with a 270 N (61 lbs.) force.
4. Release parking brake lever. There should be no rear brake drag and no gap between the caliper housings and caliper parking brake levers.

 

Thanks.I DO now have the factory FSM.I had been using a Haynes manual that came with the car.My cousin's significant other owns Drago's Corvettes in Grand Rapids and recommended the FSM.A VERY good recomendation.

I had snapped pictures before i'd torn down the assemblie and it is exactly as it was except now with NEW cables.The procedure is somewhat confusing.

I know the lever is meant to return to horizontal after setting in order to exit the vehicle.I believe it has to fully cycle in order to release.The whole nail in the hole has me confused.There are two pawls..? the front one to engage? the rearward one to maintain proper tension as related to wear of pads?

the spring plate was hard to flex over the alum flared tube and MAYBE i opened it up inadvertently causing this symptom.

I too worry that a generic repair shop may not immediately understand the theory behind the workings of this sys.I do not fully (at the moment) understand the screw on the caliper related to the parking brake.It is ALL hooked up at the moment.We had a nice drive today.I envy my uncle who just got a '95 (96?) purple pace car from Mr. Drago,for 9k

 

Many people have found that the dealers can't fix C4s because the cars are too old and the service people just don't know anything about them. All their training and experience is with the newer cars. I have heard of dealers throwing away the C4 service manuals because those cars came in so rarely and the manuals were taking up space.