C Beam help!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 34,988
Likes: 515
From: Riverside County Southern California
Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C4 of Year
2016 C7 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '20
Still easier than removing an Opti.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 76
From: Santa Maria, CA
Some other things you might run into, I had a very hard time getting the cooling lines disconnected from the transmission. The flare fittings were frozen in place. I ended up cutting the lines and installing a flare coupling when I put the transmission back in. I had to use a torch to get the fittings loose. There's no room to do that stuff with the transmission in the car. When you put the transmission back in try to get the dipstick in place as the transmission is going in. If you don't, the dipstick can bre a real pain to get in there.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
I find the only way to get to the cooling line flare nuts is to lower the transmission. I use a Snap-On flare nut wrench to break them loose and tighten them up. A 1/2" open-end wrench makes it easier to get them off or on when they're loose.
It's a lot easier to go over the top of the trans with a long extension to get to the top bolts (after lowering the rear of the trans.
When I took my trans out I just slid the C-beam toward the rear and left it there. It's tapered at the back so you can only slide it back a few inches. After removing the bellhousing bolts, I worked the trans around the C-beam to get it out.
I have taken my 700r4 out 4 times and never removed the distributor cap or other stuff on the back of the engine. Even with the trans out and the engine unsupported there is still enough space between the distributor cover and the firewall to get my fingers in there when I checked for clearance. I never had any trouble with hitting the windshield wiper motor either. Maybe I just have good motor mounts.
It's a lot easier to go over the top of the trans with a long extension to get to the top bolts (after lowering the rear of the trans.
When I took my trans out I just slid the C-beam toward the rear and left it there. It's tapered at the back so you can only slide it back a few inches. After removing the bellhousing bolts, I worked the trans around the C-beam to get it out.
I have taken my 700r4 out 4 times and never removed the distributor cap or other stuff on the back of the engine. Even with the trans out and the engine unsupported there is still enough space between the distributor cover and the firewall to get my fingers in there when I checked for clearance. I never had any trouble with hitting the windshield wiper motor either. Maybe I just have good motor mounts.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Dec 15, 2012 at 09:29 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
I find the only way to get to the cooling line flare nuts is to lower the transmission. I use a Snap-On flare nut wrench to break them loose and tighten them up. A 1/2" open-end wrench makes it easier to get them off or on when they're loose.
It's a lot easier to go over the top of the trans with a long extension to get to the top bolts (after lowering the rear of the trans.
When I took my trans out I just slid the C-beam toward the rear and left it there. It's tapered at the back so you can only slide it back a few inches. After removing the bellhousing bolts, I worked the trans around the C-beam to get it out.
I have taken my 700r4 out 4 times and never removed the distributor cap or other stuff on the back of the engine. Even with the trans out and the engine unsupported there is still enough space between the distributor cover and the firewall to get my fingers in there when I checked for clearance. I never had any trouble with hitting the windshield wiper motor either. Maybe I just have good motor mounts.
It's a lot easier to go over the top of the trans with a long extension to get to the top bolts (after lowering the rear of the trans.
When I took my trans out I just slid the C-beam toward the rear and left it there. It's tapered at the back so you can only slide it back a few inches. After removing the bellhousing bolts, I worked the trans around the C-beam to get it out.
I have taken my 700r4 out 4 times and never removed the distributor cap or other stuff on the back of the engine. Even with the trans out and the engine unsupported there is still enough space between the distributor cover and the firewall to get my fingers in there when I checked for clearance. I never had any trouble with hitting the windshield wiper motor either. Maybe I just have good motor mounts.
