Replacing LT-4 flywheel
http://www.ramclutches.com/Specialty...Conversion.htm
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...4-1989-96.html
I know nothing about flywheels
other than I've got clutch chatter from a hotspot and that I'd like as close to the original weight/performance as possible. Do either of those hits mean anything?Thanks to those who know how these things work.





I would do a search here to find tons of information about what you are trying to do.






Eliminating the dual mass flywheel and using the semi-rigid hub in the RAM disc will cause some gear rattle in the driveline under light load.
I just replaced the single mass out of my DD. Trust me, that rattle was annoying. It drove me nutz.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by 96GS#007; Dec 17, 2012 at 07:48 PM.





A lightweight flywheel is an upgrade. I've never heard of more mass being better in the drivetrain.
If you have chatter (beyond the slight noises in too high of a gear, or a light tapping at neutral (clutch pedal out - which you don't drive like that normally), then you have something else wrong with your transmission.
Explain to me why I like my 12 lb al fidanza flywheel so much?
Even if an ice cream getter is the only purpose of your car, I still can't see how anyone would think the slight extra noise increase is bad.
I use this car to race cars of all different types and taking out the heavy useless slug of mass called the dual mass flywheel is one of the best things you can do.
The only caveat is you must use a sprung hub clutch and not a stock style (non sprung hub). The springs do the job (with less weight) that the dual mass did.
Ecklers is most certainly right that they can market it as an upgrade which it is.
Last edited by dizwiz24; Dec 17, 2012 at 09:24 PM.
Better manners
I wouldnt tolerate a chattery noisy clutch for a second.
Unless its a track only car doesnt make sense to me.
Ive driven Vettes with those clutch/FW setups and they suck.
How much clutch really do you need to hold 3-400hp? Not much.
The extra rotating mass helps to keep the gears from vibrating as much. So along with a traditional sprung hub clutch disk, it will keep it relatively quiet. But still more than the stock FW.
The other point for an extra mass FW is in normal, city driving conditions. The extra mass keeps a certain level of inertia allowing for easier starts from stop lights in traffic and such. A light FW, i.e. aluminum requires a higher rpm at start due to the loss of rotating inertia. This takes some getting used to and can be a p.i.a. in heavy, rush hour type traffic. Plus the light weight FW will allow the gears to vibrate more and chatter quite a bit in the ZF.
It's really a matter personal preference. Not everyone has the sole desire to make their Corvette faster than it already is. For them, a light weight FW with all of it's characteristics is more a liability than an asset. For those that track the car, especially autocross and road course, it's an asset.
The extra rotating mass helps to keep the gears from vibrating as much. So along with a traditional sprung hub clutch disk, it will keep it relatively quiet. But still more than the stock FW.
The other point for an extra mass FW is in normal, city driving conditions. The extra mass keeps a certain level of inertia allowing for easier starts from stop lights in traffic and such. A light FW, i.e. aluminum requires a higher rpm at start due to the loss of rotating inertia. This takes some getting used to and can be a p.i.a. in heavy, rush hour type traffic. Plus the light weight FW will allow the gears to vibrate more and chatter quite a bit in the ZF.
It's really a matter personal preference. Not everyone has the sole desire to make their Corvette faster than it already is. For them, a light weight FW with all of it's characteristics is more a liability than an asset. For those that track the car, especially autocross and road course, it's an asset.
You are right on the car being easier to drive.
Example, its more difficult to stall it out due to all that inertia.
Next, if you go down a hill and there is an uphill right there, the inertia of the 'heavy' flywheel can sometimes carry you over the crest of the next hill without requiring a downshift.
In my car, it will chatter a bunch (i gave that example, going up a hill in too-high-of-a-gear) until you downshift which will eliminate the chatter.
Definitely a little more work to drive it.
Finally, it is trickier to launch at the dragstrip, but still manageable. I have two drag radial assisted 11.95 sec 1/4 mile launches with 1.8 60 ft times that I managed on the lightweight flywheel.
I believe that the freer reving nature of the lightweight flywheel overwhelms the 'good inertia at launch' benefit of the heavy flywheel at the 1/4 mile dragstrip. But thats an argument that each person will have their own opinion on!
So I take back my 'ice cream getter example'. The dual mass flywheel is the better flywheel for the most relaxing drive possible.
http://www.lmperformance.com/5266/24.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/5266/24.html
second, I have a Sec lighteight billet steel flywheel and stage three plus clutch and I love it.
third, if dampening out the maximum amount of transmission noise and ease of drivability is of paramount importance, a Spec heavy weight billet steel flywheel would be the way to go.
A Spec "heavy" flywheel is a relative and somewhat confusing term; its about the same weight as the usual nodular iron flywheel of the same diameter used in a zillion stock chevy manual transmission / v8 drive combo's. No big deal; the main difference is that the flywheel is (a) made from billet steel and that (b) the surface is cut down 0.090 inch to accommodate the ZF style pull clutch.







Just for that you made me re-phrase my statement in my prior post

