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Tryin to decide. Bought my 1st vette 2 weeks ago - a 96 CE convertible LT4. On safety inspection mechanic commented on the cracked tanks on the rad. Its not leaking (yet) but I want to replace the rad while the car hibernates over the winter. I've read the thread regarding bargain 2 row rads (it got a little snarly) and a short thread on using OEM - they only make em for the automatics and I have the ZF.
So here is my question: is there any point in installing a 2 row rad in the car which is not raced and where there are no plans for any major engine/performance mods except airbox and exhaust? The difference in cost is about $300 bucks. Thanks in advance.
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
You don't have to spend $300 more to get a good quality, increased capacity all-alum radiator. I'm even wondering how you came up with that amount...unless DeWitt's is making a 1-row now? (Since you read the thread, you know 2-rows can be had for less than $200...making the difference about $100 IIRC.
DeWitt's makes good stuff too. It really comes down to what you feel comfortable with.
That said, you don't have to have "extra" demand to NEED a radiator upgrade...though it's definitely worth consideration. OTOH, Ton's of C4 Corvette engines have run long lives with the OEM config.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by illenema
There is plenty of coolant flow need to maximize air flow thru the rad.
A reasonable observation too. With a wider 2-row, one could make the case it may need a higher cfm fan just to pull enough air through the dual-row units. I bet most springing thru 2-rows ALSO upgrade fans.
Can't say I've seen any discussion on this...
And, oh yeah...I second the "assurance" that any auto-equipped radiator works in a ZF car. You just end up paying for the trans cooler you don't need. OTOH, I don't believe you can buy a (C4 Corvette) unit that's not setup for automatics. So, just accept it.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Dec 27, 2012 at 12:08 AM.
Both are good observations. I personally think the OEM radiator is under sized. Basically you need to increase cooling capacity. That can be done by increasing the surface area of the radiator fins or increasing air flow. This is all dependent on the climate you operate in. I needed a system that would perform well on trips across the desert.
OP could consider an aux oil cooler as well. My '94 still has the MN6 type radiator in it. I figured that when it goes I'll put in the auto trans type and a seperate aux oil cooler since there are no oem manual trans types out there.
A lot of the cheaper aftermarket rads are not aluminum so they tout the two row feature making you think you're getting a good deal on an ordinary brass radiator. Any good clean aluminum one row rad will out cool a two row brass any day. I can see the two row aluminum being a good thing on a stock vehicle but on a modded car with a tune for a 160 stat it is just not necessary. My '85 is tuned for a 160 and the original one row rad keeps it plenty cool. If my car sees 200 degrees it is in stop & go traffic.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by Midnight 85
A lot of the cheaper aftermarket rads are not aluminum so they tout the two row feature making you think you're getting a good deal on an ordinary brass radiator.
Can't say I recall a 2-row brass being sold anywhere...but my searches were for alum.
Originally Posted by Midnight 85
I can see the two row aluminum being a good thing on a stock vehicle but on a modded car with a tune for a 160 stat it is just not necessary.
Did you mean this the other way around? Modded cars "need" more cooling than stock.
Originally Posted by Midnight 85
My '85 is tuned for a 160 and the original one row rad keeps it plenty cool. If my car sees 200 degrees it is in stop & go traffic.
So, if (at least some level of) modded cars can cut it on the stock radiator, it shows the stock unit is more than enough for the OEM config. And, your's is more than an intake --OR-- headers. You've got both AND a cam, right?
Great points thanks. I notice the car runs at the normal temp range while driving, unless stopped in trafic where it gets near the 'Worry range' on the dash. Pehaps a manual fan switch or finding some way for the fan to kick on earier (reprogram ECU?) will solve that.
I can get the OEM replacement for about $200 CDN - my concern is will I be replacing it in a few years if the plastic tanks start to crack again.
An aftermarket 1-row is $215 (cool direct)
The cheapest 2 row I see is $537 for the Direct Fit (Dewitt's).
None of the bargain 2 row units came up in my original search. I can go re read the old thread and track em down.
I need to check the function of the fans first and go from there.
Great points thanks. I notice the car runs at the normal temp range while driving, unless stopped in trafic where it gets near the 'Worry range' on the dash. Pehaps a manual fan switch or finding some way for the fan to kick on earier (reprogram ECU?) will solve that.
I can get the OEM replacement for about $200 CDN - my concern is will I be replacing it in a few years if the plastic tanks start to crack again.
An aftermarket 1-row is $215 (cool direct)
The cheapest 2 row I see is $537 for the Direct Fit (Dewitt's).
None of the bargain 2 row units came up in my original search. I can go re read the old thread and track em down.
I need to check the function of the fans first and go from there.
Dewitts offers discounts for forum members from time to time. You might just check with them and see if they can get the price down. I got mine through a special offer.
Great points thanks. I notice the car runs at the normal temp range while driving, unless stopped in trafic where it gets near the 'Worry range' on the dash. Pehaps a manual fan switch or finding some way for the fan to kick on earier (reprogram ECU?) will solve that.
My #1 fan has been reprogramed to come on at 205. Second fan is set to 215 but since I put the radiator and water pump, I have never seen 215 on the gauge. No more "Worry Range"
Read this if you want to know more about programming the ECM.
Dewitts offers discounts for forum members from time to time. You might just check with them and see if they can get the price down. I got mine through a special offer.
This is true and it will be coming soon. I am still working on a single row (1.5" tube) design that I think will be out in Feb 2013. Target price is around $300 and early tests shows a major increase in cooling over the stock unit. This single wide tube design beats the multiple three row cores because of the dead space between the tubes. Stay tuned
This is true and it will be coming soon. I am still working on a single row (1.5" tube) design that I think will be out in Feb 2013. Target price is around $300 and early tests shows a major increase in cooling over the stock unit. This single wide tube design beats the multiple three row cores because of the dead space between the tubes. Stay tuned
This is true and it will be coming soon. I am still working on a single row (1.5" tube) design that I think will be out in Feb 2013. Target price is around $300 and early tests shows a major increase in cooling over the stock unit. This single wide tube design beats the multiple three row cores because of the dead space between the tubes. Stay tuned
That sounds good.
Just to play devils advocate, here folks. A 2 or 3 core radiator means more weight in the front end and a higher polar moment of inertia. Both things the C4 does NOT need. Every pound counts. Dang, I'm hooked on auto-x WAY too much.
This is true and it will be coming soon. I am still working on a single row (1.5" tube) design that I think will be out in Feb 2013. Target price is around $300 and early tests shows a major increase in cooling over the stock unit. This single wide tube design beats the multiple three row cores because of the dead space between the tubes. Stay tuned
I like the phrase "major increase in cooling over the stock unit"
One of my spring upgrades is to replace the radiator with a more efficient unit, as my 96 runs a tad too hot most of the year here in north Texas. The single-row sounds like it would be a straight R&R with the OEM, and at not much more than a factory OEM replacement (but, with Dewitt quality built in)!
Looking forward to hearing more about this new design!