L98 Intake Removal/Porting?
Things are slow at work so I'm spending time around the car tomorrow. I bought a whole gasket kit for my intake, plenum, manifold, and throttle body (along with black RTV/Right Stuff) because I discovered I have a leak in the intake system on both sides. I've read up what I can online, and in my Haynes* book, but any additional advice is always appreciated. I always seem to get something helpful from you guys.

While the intake, runners, and plenum are off I'm cleaning them out thoroughly, and possibly sanding down the crappy paint left behind by the previous owner.

ALSO! Should I take advantage and try to port them?
Never done it, but then I'll have to bring them to work another day, so the car will be out of commission longer. Plus, I REALLY don't want to take off the whole system again in the next few months to port them because I don't want to ruin the new gaskets.
Thanks for anything.





If you convert to large-tube runners or siamesed SLP tubes...or even siamesed Edelbrock tubes, the value of porting is much more measureable.
Large base wouldn't hurt either...but then you start the debate of swapping to another intake.
I have yet to find an AM intake that's CARB/SMOG legal, aside from a converted LT1 intake, with a working EGR(?). Plus, an AM lower manifold is still being looked into for the same fear as stated.
Don't remind me that I can't buy any headers... I might cry because for once, I didn't look at the possible modification of my purchase, before buying it.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/buildup/runners/
No CARB # but the Edlebrock intake base has provision for Vette style EGR
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-3861
but as Greg mentioned there are arguments for bypassing the TPI altogether
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ead.php?t=1793
1) **Before you start removing things, start the car and run it then pull the fuel pump fuse and let the car run until it dies from lack of fuel. Loosen the gas cap to relieve any pressure. You will need a couple of rubber plugs to fit over the fuel lines when you remove them from the fuel rails. IF you don't plug them, they WILL leak fuel. You should use flare wrenches to un-screw the fittings on the fuel lines.
2) Disconnect the battery....negative first always!
3) I would put a 5/8 (six point socket) on the damper center bolt and turn the crank until the timing marks line up.
4) Remove the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor. (I draw a picture and tape it to the windshield so I know where it was).
5) Label the distributor and each plug wire as you remove it.
6) Label all hoses and wires as you remove them. Pictures always help.
7) Label all bolts removed and place in plastic bags.
8) The runners to the intake have different length bolts depending on their position on the intake, so be sure to label each bolt.
9) There are two I believe (it has been a long time since I did standard runners) on the inside of the runners (under the plenum) that attach the runners to the intake.
10) When you start to put things back together, wipe down the front and rear "china wall" with a good solvent to remove any oil. Then take a center punch and dimple the china walls. I also use the punch and dimple the portion of the intake that matches the front and rear china walls. This will give your "Right Stuff" something to grip. Chevy has had a problem sealing these areas for years and years. Dimple the walls and you will not have a future problem.

PM sent to you this morning.
Last edited by John A. Marker; Jan 16, 2013 at 01:09 PM. Reason: add image of dimpled china wall





Even with the stock manifolds, people have pulled them and ported them. There appears to be a big restriction at their mouth that can be opened up. Also, McJacks makes some "pretty" coated/ported modified stock manifolds -- if no other option is afforded you in CA.
Taking the video on SLP porting one step further, you'd end up getting tubes that look like this -- if you really try porting all the way thru AND remove most of the upper divider. (The YouTube guy eluded to this, but didn't show you a visual comparison...)

The modification above should net you at least 20hp and raise your effective rpm at least 500 higher.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Very good info, thanks guys! About to get started... this should be fun.
Last edited by Ziggy91; Jan 16, 2013 at 11:32 AM.


I usually have all the bolts in cardboard in the actual 'pattern'.
The bolts go through from the opposite side as shown in red;
do not try to crack the stuck on runners loose from the base ( crowbar / sledgehammer / etc ) unless you have all 12 bolts in your hand
Need a 6" long 3/8" extension to gain access to them under the plenum






Also, I ported my heads and exhaust manifold.
Greg, thanks again for the pics. Turns out my whole intake system had already been ported by a previous owner. My 2 left runners in the picture, for both sides, lack a center divider. Not sure if this is good or not, but it'll have to stay for now while I save.
Last edited by Ziggy91; Jan 18, 2013 at 12:38 AM.





Maybe you have a set of those?
OTOH, if all four dividers are completely removed, that is home-grown and quite rare. It also improves either your "need" for a better cam. Or even a bigger curiosity about what cam is in your car now?
Or maybe just SLP's lack of craftsmanship?

EDIT: My runners look exactly like those in the pictures that "ch@0s" attached above.
I've been curious about what cam could be in there also. After removing the valve cover and peeking into the head everything looks like it's in good condition. I suspect new internals were put in at some point, but who knows how long ago.
Last edited by Ziggy91; Jan 18, 2013 at 01:02 AM.

If you are going to do large tube runners, I recommend porting your intake base or buying a new base.
Best of luck...
Anyway... bracket's getting a new facial to align with the cable while I'm at work tomorrow. Whole process took a few days of spare time after work, but I was working slow and carefully.
However, this whole experience showed me that I'm definitely switching to a converted LT1 intake/manifold in the next few months. This whole process would have literally been cut down to about 1/4 of the time if that was the setup. I couldn't care less about the possible performance gains... I just don't want to go through this process again to change an injector, or anything else.
Last edited by Ziggy91; Jan 22, 2013 at 02:23 AM.















