1992 vette killed itself
Check the two ground straps inboard of the battery. Disco and scuff the mating surfaces looking for signs of corrosion.
Let's review the symptoms:
*92 vette decided to shut its self off at about 30mph.
*I turn the key i believe I hear the fuel pump and power antenna run and then when I turn the key to initiate the starter nothing happens. When I say nothing happens I mean no click no nothing.
*I have had a problem with the opti-spark shutting the car off but I just replaced it, and during that problem the starter always turned over. And just for the record no my battery is not dead.
If you have a good battery (and it seems likely that it's not SO dead as to not even "click"), then the next thing to check is the primary starting circuit, power to the start/fuse box and VATS (does the security light blink when you turn the key to "on"?)
I completely agree that it is not a fuel problem. Why would someone say that when the problem is clearly that the starter isn't cranking the engine?
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Feb 9, 2013 at 02:45 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Let's review the symptoms:
*92 vette decided to shut its self off at about 30mph.
*I turn the key i believe I hear the fuel pump and power antenna run and then when I turn the key to initiate the starter nothing happens. When I say nothing happens I mean no click no nothing.
*I have had a problem with the opti-spark shutting the car off but I just replaced it, and during that problem the starter always turned over. And just for the record no my battery is not dead.
If you have a good battery (and it seems likely that it's not SO dead as to not even "click"), then the next thing to check is the primary starting circuit, power to the start/fuse box and VATS (does the security light blink when you turn the key to "on"?)
I completely agree that it is not a fuel problem. Why would someone say that when the problem is clearly that the starter isn't cranking the engine?

my 97 would do this occasionally, (especially when it rained) and I could jump it with a screwdriver, but would only run about 3 seconds, and die. Try cleaning your key or trying a different one. As Tom said, your security light should be blinking, (not solid) when the key in the on position. To bypass the VATS, you need to measure the resistance of the chip in your key. Using a volt meter, set it to ohm at 20k. Touch the leads to either side of your key, and measure the resistance. Once you determine the resistance, you will have to get resistors to match your ohm number. You can get restors from radio shack, or if your poor, like me, you can rape an old computer, or any electrical device your done with. You may have to solder several together to get the desired resistance. You don't have to come up with the exact resistance, but you have to be within 20% of the value on the ohm reading.
Once you have your part fabbed up, remove the driver side kick panel, and find the orange wire coming from the ignition switch, (actually orange sheathed) and cut the wire. Warning: Make sure you have the orange wire, NOT the yellow! Yellow is for your airbag, in fact you should pull the airbag fuse. Inside the orange wire you will find 2 small wires, (you will be working with the lead going under the dash, not the one going to the ignition switch) so cut accordingly, and leave yourself enough lead to work with. Now you want to strip the 2 wires inside the orange wire, and solder in your newly made resistor. One end to each lead.
Now test it! Key on. Security light should be blinking again, and the car will start. Make sure your work is all taped, and secured, and reassemble the kick panel, and replace the airbag fuse. Now you will never have to worry about this issue again. h











