1984 "4+3" overdrive "console switch"
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1984 "4+3" overdrive "console switch"
Hello Folks,
I've read most of the posts, including those from Ken . . . have the shop manual but still can not figure out how to remove the 1984 "4+3" overdrive "console switch" .
Again this is for a 1984, and not a 1985, whereas the overdrive switch is located on top of the shifter.
In advance, thanks . . .
I've read most of the posts, including those from Ken . . . have the shop manual but still can not figure out how to remove the 1984 "4+3" overdrive "console switch" .
Again this is for a 1984, and not a 1985, whereas the overdrive switch is located on top of the shifter.
In advance, thanks . . .
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,277
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From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Here is a NOS switch, shows the 2 mounting screw holes.
Are you past that point ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1985-Co...-/110999365529
Are you past that point ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1985-Co...-/110999365529
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Just did mine. Pull the dash, and console covers, (you really need to pull all of them, but if you are careful you can get the center dash piece out from under the cluster piece) and then 2 screws hold the switch. Lift it out 4-5in, and you'll see the connector. h
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Joined: Aug 2012
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Here is a NOS switch, shows the 2 mounting screw holes.
Are you past that point ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1985-Co...-/110999365529
Are you past that point ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1985-Co...-/110999365529
Damn $65 for toggle switch - now how do I find out if my switch is bad - only have 34K miles on it?
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I have no power to the overdrive dash light or to my overdrive. I replaced the overdrive relay, on the firewall, there's (2) relays there, one for the fuel pump (I did not replace) then the overdrive (replaced) is the one closest to the valve cover (is that correct)?
I've taken a look at overdrive "switch", located on the console next to the 4sp shifter - it looked real clean (have 34K miles on the car),
Damn $65 for toggle switch - now how do I find out if my overdrive "switch" is bad ?
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Use a volt meter to see if there is voltage going through it. Have you read here. h http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ve-issues.html
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: moraga ca
Use a volt meter to see if there is voltage going through it. Have you read here. h http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ve-issues.html
A $5.00 volt meter will answer your question. Put it on the ohm setting. Place one probe on one terminal and the other one on the other. Flick the switch and see if the contacts open and close.
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Use a volt meter to see if there is voltage going through it. Have you read here. h http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ve-issues.html
Thanks, have a volt meter - I now have removed 'most' of the screws that hold the shifter console together, and have losened the screws on the dash around the radio . . .
I have removed (2) of the small 1/4" bolts that are located on the drivers side of the shifter console - that attach to the glove box.
But still I am unable to remove the shifter panel, how do I remove the shifter ****? Again a 84 vet.
How do I get access to the drivers side of the shifter console so I can disconnect and overdrive "switch" - I can pull the drivers side shifter console about 1/4" and can barely see the overdrive "switch connector"?
Again, many thanks, almost there.
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Making progress . .
I was able to remove the center shifter console whereas I can now see what appears to the overdrive switch "connecter", this connector is located in back left corner of the shifter, is this correct one, and how is connected, does it connector ribs on each side, or does it simply pull apart?
I was able to remove the center shifter console whereas I can now see what appears to the overdrive switch "connecter", this connector is located in back left corner of the shifter, is this correct one, and how is connected, does it connector ribs on each side, or does it simply pull apart?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,277
Likes: 236
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
From my experience working on my 86, I first remove gauge bezel, then radio bezel, before I can remove shifter bezel.
Can't comment on the shifter **** as mine is different.
On my 86, I pop off the shifter button, remove steel wedge, then unscrew ****.
Can't comment on the shifter **** as mine is different.
On my 86, I pop off the shifter button, remove steel wedge, then unscrew ****.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
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From: Seattle Wa
If you look back at the photo of the one on ebay, you can see the connector has clips on either side. "Gently" pull them away while separating the connector. It can be tough, given its age, and corrosion. You may need to use a screwdriver. Low miles has virtually no involvement in an aging car. In fact a lot of the time it can be worse. Especially if it wasnt properly stored/maintained. Acid in oil can eat aluminum bearings, shocks go bad, tires, and wires crack. Its a real good Idea to give the wiring a good looking at to make sure the sheathing isnt shrinking away, which could cause a fire. Also the first thing I did was make a emergency hood release. It will save you alot of headaches down the road, and god forbid, but if you do have a fire, that would be the worst time to not be able to open the hood. h
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Use a volt meter to see if there is voltage going through it. Have you read here. h http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ve-issues.html
With the battery disconnected:
Without removing the overdrive "connector", I was able to remove the (2) screws holding the overdrive "switch", whereas I could attach an ohm meter to the (2) contacts at the rear of the overdrive console "switch".
Then I flipped the overdrive 'switch", the ohm reading went from .000 to 000.3, then dropped to 000.2 then to 000.1
Comments please . . .
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,277
Likes: 236
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Making progress . . .
With the battery disconnected:
Without removing the overdrive "connector", I was able to remove the (2) screws holding the overdrive "switch", whereas I could attach an ohm meter to the (2) contacts at the rear of the overdrive console "switch".
Then I flipped the overdrive 'switch", the ohm reading went from .000 to 000.3, then dropped to 000.2 then to 000.1
Comments please . . .
With the battery disconnected:
Without removing the overdrive "connector", I was able to remove the (2) screws holding the overdrive "switch", whereas I could attach an ohm meter to the (2) contacts at the rear of the overdrive console "switch".
Then I flipped the overdrive 'switch", the ohm reading went from .000 to 000.3, then dropped to 000.2 then to 000.1
Comments please . . .
Second , different meters show different signs for "Infinity", which is an open circuit, as in switch off.
Set it for 20 K and note the reading. That is your reading for open switch.
Touch the probes together and note the reading. That should be the reading for a closed switch.
Now go retest.
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Just tested, with the battery connected, and the ignition "ON", the motor not running, performed a voltage test at the "overdrive toggle "switch" to see what volts are there?
When I flipped the overdrive toggle switch to "ON", there were NO volts at the overdrive switch.
A week ago I checked the "gage" (overdrive) fuse in the fuse box, and it looked good, so I did not change it out.
Your thoughts?
When I flipped the overdrive toggle switch to "ON", there were NO volts at the overdrive switch.
A week ago I checked the "gage" (overdrive) fuse in the fuse box, and it looked good, so I did not change it out.
Your thoughts?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
Likes: 1,666
From: moraga ca
You're not going to get a voltage reading unless the transmission parameters will allow the overdrive to engauge; coolant temperature warm, second gear. As agent stated, to test the switch, you need to disconnect the connectors and test just the swith alone and then move on from there.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Just tested, with the battery connected, and the ignition "ON", the motor not running, performed a voltage test at the "overdrive toggle "switch" to see what volts are there?
When I flipped the overdrive toggle switch to "ON", there were NO volts at the overdrive switch.
A week ago I checked the "gage" (overdrive) fuse in the fuse box, and it looked good, so I did not change it out.
Your thoughts?
When I flipped the overdrive toggle switch to "ON", there were NO volts at the overdrive switch.
A week ago I checked the "gage" (overdrive) fuse in the fuse box, and it looked good, so I did not change it out.
Your thoughts?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,426
Likes: 229
From: Pennsylvania
Hemivett - thanks for your reply.
I have no power to the overdrive dash light or to my overdrive. I replaced the overdrive relay, on the firewall, there's (2) relays there, one for the fuel pump (I did not replace) then the overdrive (replaced) is the one closest to the valve cover (is that correct)?
I've taken a look at overdrive "switch", located on the console next to the 4sp shifter - it looked real clean (have 34K miles on the car),
Damn $65 for toggle switch - now how do I find out if my overdrive "switch" is bad ?
I have no power to the overdrive dash light or to my overdrive. I replaced the overdrive relay, on the firewall, there's (2) relays there, one for the fuel pump (I did not replace) then the overdrive (replaced) is the one closest to the valve cover (is that correct)?
I've taken a look at overdrive "switch", located on the console next to the 4sp shifter - it looked real clean (have 34K miles on the car),
Damn $65 for toggle switch - now how do I find out if my overdrive "switch" is bad ?
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 7
From: Chewelah Wa
Wire the switch so that it just grounds the relay, bypassing the ECM. 3 dollar switch, full manual overdrive control..... PRICELESS! The hardest part is running the wire from the switch to the relay. In other words, not hard at all.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
Likes: 1,666
From: moraga ca
This was one of the first things I did with my 84 back in 84. I used the overdrive as a 5th gear. The light still worked on the dash. I now use the same switch for locking up my converter at the strip (4L60e). Same idea.