FE1 and Z51 shocks
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
FE1 and Z51 shocks
Just pulled the plug on new shocks. Replacing the old Bilstiens and went with the Z51 Shocks, great price from Willcox and quick delivery. Looking at them, and from what I understand, these should bolt up without issue. Is this correct? Or is there anything else I should be aware of before going in? Seems like a pretty straight forward job.
--Chris
--Chris
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 7
From: Burleson Texas
Just did all four of mine yesterday. Took less than an hour. On the old shocks, I used vice grips and a 15mm open end wrench to pull off the nut. The new ones used an Allen wrench and a 17mm to install. Probably one of the easiest cars to change shocks on.
The old shocks could be compressed by hand and never rebounded! The new Z51 shocks required a jack to compress the rear ones to get them to line up.
The old shocks could be compressed by hand and never rebounded! The new Z51 shocks required a jack to compress the rear ones to get them to line up.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
Just did all four of mine yesterday. Took less than an hour. On the old shocks, I used vice grips and a 15mm open end wrench to pull off the nut. The new ones used an Allen wrench and a 17mm to install. Probably one of the easiest cars to change shocks on.
The old shocks could be compressed by hand and never rebounded! The new Z51 shocks required a jack to compress the rear ones to get them to line up.
The old shocks could be compressed by hand and never rebounded! The new Z51 shocks required a jack to compress the rear ones to get them to line up.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
3 outta 4 ain't good
Finally got to my local DIY shop to do the install. First time doing this, so I took my time, and had my trusty FSM w/ me. Fronts went in fine, no problems. Got to the back passenger side. Supported the knuckle, just like the book said. Had the bottom bolt on the stud loosened just a tad. And went for the tower brace bolts. Got about six turns on the rear side one, and then snap! It was turning freely but not coming out. Pretty sure the welded nut in the frame snapped loose. Went on and did the drivers side with no issue.
So, I guess the solution is going to be to cut the bolt out. Then drill a hole in the frame to put a new bolt in?
Well, anyway, even just the three new shocks makes a world of difference in the ride.
So, I guess the solution is going to be to cut the bolt out. Then drill a hole in the frame to put a new bolt in?
Well, anyway, even just the three new shocks makes a world of difference in the ride.
