We had a nice day in Northern California today, so I decided to change out the balance of the coolant hoses on the 95. I had already changed the upper and lower radiator to engine hoses. The other hoses can be bought from most auto supply houses. But there are two aluminum lines that have hoses crimped to them that you can't buy anywhere.

This is one of the hoses that "T's" from the coolant tank to the radiator and then over to the throttle body.

Finished product....


I used a cut off wheel on my grinder and cut away the aluminum fitting that crimps the rubber hose to the tube. Note that under the fitting when you get the hose off there is a good base on the tube to slide a new section of 3/8" heater hose onto the tube and then clamp it.

I was shocked to find that the tube that goes into the "T" from the coolant tank was plugged and nothing could get thru.

I ran a wire thru the tube to clean it out. Then hit it with compressed air and then water. I did discover that the end of the tube nearest the coolant tank was restricted (manufactured this way) down to about a 1/16" diameter hole.

While I was at it, I by passed the TB. I rinsed out the coolant tank to get rid of all the rusty old junk that accumulated on the bottom of the tank. I got everything back together and filled the coolant up and ran the car. Damn, wouldn't you know it. The plastic spring loaded restricter inline to the heater core cracked where the hose slips over the fitting. I put in a temporary splice until I can get a new part.

I thought you could use some pictures of the lines with the crimped fitting off for your future reference.

 

Thanks for the photos and write-up. I'm expecting my new Dewitt's radiator any time now, and have already ordered all new hoses (with the exception of the tee'd hose you mention). I might just do what you did on mine, unless I can find a decently priced replacement.

 

GM and the Corvette aftermarket parts houses don't have these. Both tubes run from the coolant fill tank. The top line is not under pressure and runs to the overflow tank. The bottom line which leads to the "T" runs to the radiator and the TB. Both of these lines bolt to the passenger side of the wheel well.

It is not difficult to replace the lines. The cutoff wheel on my grinder made quick work of the aluminum crimp fittings I had more trouble trying to get off some of the GM squeeze clamps from the odd positions they were in.

And the inline part that broke on the heater hose I found out is called the Heater Control Valve. Most of the parts stores around me don't carry this item, but I found that Autozone has it in stock for $9.99. You might want to pick one up since plastic become brittle over time.

 

Good advice, thanks!

 

If you'd like to retain the factory/OE appearance once you have it fitted with the hoses etc carry it to a hydraulic line shop and they can nearly duplicate the factory appearance for you.

 

You can also get a variety of "T" fittings from any hydraulic shop or even brass T or others from the hardware store in all sizes.

 

I'm sure there's a hydraulic hose outfit somewhere in the DFW metroplex that can make one up.

Thanks for the tips, guys.

 

I thought it might be "assumed" the shop would only be doing the "crimped sleeves" for the fix BUT I guess I shouldn't assume! All you need to do is fit the hoses to the original T and then take what you've got to the shop to have the "crimped sleeves" done. The OE appearance is retained. I didn't mean to imply using brass fittings etc to accomplish the fix.

 

Here's a little trick you can use to improvd the looks of this setup. I've done it with all my hose clamps.:

1. cut the excess length off of the hose clamp.
2. slip a piece of electrical shrink tubing over the clamp band, leaving enough threads clear.
3. heat shrink the tubing.
4. turn the worm drive part of the clamp underneath the hose so it's out of sight, then tighten.

 

Many years ago I briefly worked in a shop that produced custom hydraulic hoses (mainly for construction/industrial equipment). So, know exactly what you meant by your reply. No, I wouldn't use brass connectors, but would have the hoses attached to the existing tee with the same type of aluminum crimps. No misunderstanding on this end....

 

Is their a reason for NOT using a brass "T" with 3/8" barbed ends?
I'm not worried about "looks", just functionality. I'm just making sure their is no chemical reaction or something with coolant and brass I don't know about. Because that seems like the easiest solution to me for a "non-show car".

 

There's no reason why you couldn't but the idea with the carry it to the shop and have the "crimps" done was to preserve the OE appearance of the repair. There was a reference a few posts up that referred to brass or generic t's and that wasn't my idea when I mentioned having the crimps done! That's all - the idea was preserving the appearance of the part in the OP's first snapshot!

BTW "92ragtop" - that actually is a unique touch there.