Have A Noob Question
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Intermediate
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From: Spring Texas
Have A Noob Question
I'm going to have new tires put on at Discount Tires within the next several days. They will more than likely use floor jacks. Also, I plan on going under the car myself. A guy that I ran into that has an '88 recommended that I should open the doors before jacking it up. If this is true, should I also open the rear lid and hood? Or is this just a myth. Oh, almost forgot, I have an '86 convertible.
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
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IMHO, it's a myth. The local Discount Tire in my area uses a scissors-type lift for Corvettes. Other shops would use a 2-post lift with the arms positioned where the jacking points are located. Either of these types of lifts will lift the entire car at once so there is no stress placed on the body.
I have used my floor jack for my '87 and I can lift at one jacking point high enough to where the other tire comes off the ground. I can open the hood and open and close either door and never had a problem.
I have used my floor jack for my '87 and I can lift at one jacking point high enough to where the other tire comes off the ground. I can open the hood and open and close either door and never had a problem.
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From: Spring Texas
Thanks for the reply. The story is, the day I purchased the car, I stopped by the tax assessors office and asked a guy how long the wait was (he said he waited an hour 20 mins.). Then he said he had an '88 and we started talking and I told him this is my very first Vette and so on. He recommended to do what my question was. That's where I got it from. Still doing tons of reading on here and learning a lot. Thanks again.
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Myth. But, if the guys at the tire shop insist, there's no harm in opening the doors. Make sure they know the proper jacking points....don't assume they know.
Burning Brakes
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I know it is a myth, but for some reason I still open the doors or loosen the top every time I lift or jack-up the car. Probably because so many people have told me this that I do it for a "Just in-case" type of thing.
Better safe than sorry is the lesson I guess.
Better safe than sorry is the lesson I guess.
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I'm going to have new tires put on at Discount Tires within the next several days. They will more than likely use floor jacks.
A guy that I ran into that has an '88 recommended that I should open the doors before jacking it up. If this is true, should I also open the rear lid and hood? Or is this just a myth.
A guy that I ran into that has an '88 recommended that I should open the doors before jacking it up. If this is true, should I also open the rear lid and hood? Or is this just a myth.
You will do absolutely no harm jacking the car up with the doors, hood, and rear hatch all closed.
Now where you do want to pay attention, is the jacking points they use.
It is very easy to get a floor jack under a little too far, and then punch a hole in the fiberglass floorboard.
Get down and take a look where the jack is placed and you'll see what to look for.
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Thats the "uni-body" or "F" body myth that just won;t go away.....
every new generation of trade school techs is taught that the frame of a F-Body car will break the windows or tweak the frame if the thing is jacked with doors and windows closed.
Thats an F"(ox)" body thing....NOT a "Y" body thing....
Corvettes are Y body. Somewhat different.
They will want to:
crack the doors,
pop the hatch,
pop the hood
They WILL forget to:
close the hood,
close the hatch all the way,
and they will try to slide a flood jack under your floor PANS....SO WATCH THESE A-HOLES or they WILL break out your floor board.
I had a clown almost jack mine on the gas tank....
I DID end up with a broken passenger floor pan where they DID jack it.
Watch as they lift, or INSIST that they use a lift and NOT a floor jack. But DO watch them. They DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE MESSING WITH ! ! !
every new generation of trade school techs is taught that the frame of a F-Body car will break the windows or tweak the frame if the thing is jacked with doors and windows closed.
Thats an F"(ox)" body thing....NOT a "Y" body thing....
Corvettes are Y body. Somewhat different.
They will want to:
crack the doors,
pop the hatch,
pop the hood
They WILL forget to:
close the hood,
close the hatch all the way,
and they will try to slide a flood jack under your floor PANS....SO WATCH THESE A-HOLES or they WILL break out your floor board.
I had a clown almost jack mine on the gas tank....
I DID end up with a broken passenger floor pan where they DID jack it.
Watch as they lift, or INSIST that they use a lift and NOT a floor jack. But DO watch them. They DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE MESSING WITH ! ! !
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From: Spring Texas
Thanks for all the advise guys. I will take it all to heart. I will be **** about it since this is not only my first Vette, it's my very first "toy" car period and I waited a very long time to have something like this. And I've only had for two weeks today! Also, from lots of reading, I have found the arrows that mark the jacking points. I only have 3 things to take care of until I can really enjoy my car: tires, shocks, and figure out an electrical issue.
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From: Spring Texas
Here is that thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-question.html
If you have anything else to add, please do so.
Also some back ground on the car: It has 96,XXX miles on it but it has a pretty new crate motor and transmission with about 3,000 miles on it. The guy I bought it from (a co-worker who is a good guy) had the motor installed by a Chevy dealer. Also to note, when I start it cold and is in high idle, it does like to hunt a little (around 700-900 rpms). Once it's warmed up and the rpms drop, it settles on 600 rpms and is steady.
Last edited by Operator2; Feb 22, 2013 at 08:24 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: New Jersey
Behind the battery is a terminal block which is the union for several hot feeds. Please check that post For loose connections and corrosion. You are describing almost to a Tee the exact issue I had with my '86. I thought it was the alternator. I now have a spare alternator.
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From: Spring Texas
Thanks Dino, the connections there are tight but haven't gone any further due to time constraints. Plan on looking into in more depth Monday. At least you have a back up alternator, lol. The guy I bought the car from said the alternator was rebuilt as well, forgot to mention that in my previous post.
Come to think of it, the wire from the battery to that terminal block looks like it did get real hot at one time. And there is definitely potential for corrosion there.
Come to think of it, the wire from the battery to that terminal block looks like it did get real hot at one time. And there is definitely potential for corrosion there.
Last edited by Operator2; Feb 22, 2013 at 09:25 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
I'm going to have new tires put on at Discount Tires within the next several days. They will more than likely use floor jacks. Also, I plan on going under the car myself. A guy that I ran into that has an '88 recommended that I should open the doors before jacking it up. If this is true, should I also open the rear lid and hood? Or is this just a myth. Oh, almost forgot, I have an '86 convertible.
( V V ), put the factory jack there between the marks only NOT a trolly jack or you will crush the floor
You can use a trolley jack but only the lip of one.
The frame rails are easy to see when you look under the car behind the front wheels put the jack there, that will lift the rear tire off the ground also but you can put a trolly jack under the rear where the frame rails are taking care not to damage or crush the hand brake cables.
As for the doors i usually keep them closed but they can open and close normally with just one jack at the front rail, there is minimal flexing. NOTE if you did open the opposite door all the way and jacked the car up from the opposite side you could damage the bottom of the door when it hits the ground.
I am surprised that with public liability insurance issues they would let you go under the vehicle at their shop !!!
Most places will have signs no entry to workshop.....
Last edited by gerardvg; Feb 22, 2013 at 09:40 PM. Reason: More info
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From: Spring Texas
Thanks Gerard for the tips. I did find the arrows but I didn't realize that I shouldn't use a trolly jack in that location. The one I have won't reach the front cross member, it's not low enough. So what you're saying is to use a frame rail, for the front also?
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I've been lifting C4s since 1997. I never open anything, and nothing cracked.
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From: Spring Texas
That is good to know PLRX, thanks. It is always good to have the opportunity to tap into highly knowledgeable folks. On my things to get is a service manual. Unfortunately, my Vette funds are starting to run low for now, so it will have to wait. 
I need to focus on the tires and shocks so I can feel comfortable driving it, mainly the tires. They are dry rotted and feel that they are not safe.
I need to focus on the tires and shocks so I can feel comfortable driving it, mainly the tires. They are dry rotted and feel that they are not safe.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: California
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St. Jude Donor'13
That is good to know PLRX, thanks. It is always good to have the opportunity to tap into highly knowledgeable folks. On my things to get is a service manual. Unfortunately, my Vette funds are starting to run low for now, so it will have to wait. I need to focus on the tires and shocks so I can feel comfortable driving it, mainly the tires. They are dry rotted and feel that they are not safe.
I need to focus on the tires and shocks so I can feel comfortable driving it, mainly the tires. They are dry rotted and feel that they are not safe.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Well the Nexen tires are cheap with silica tread compound i am very impressed with the dry and wet weather grip, they are comparable with the tires double the price. Also they are smooth riding low noise so check them out.
Yes new shocks and good tires will transform your vette into the road holding performance masterpiece she was when she came from the factory. We all know how dangerous a corvette with old rubber is with even just a hint of rain
. You will have a car that inspires confidence with good rubber, brakes and shocks. Do not forget to change brake fluid regularly and go for a high friction brake pads.
Thread Starter
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From: Spring Texas
I have just put some Nexen N3000 tires on my vette (they no longer make the Hankook ones i have on the front)
Well the Nexen tires are cheap with silica tread compound i am very impressed with the dry and wet weather grip, they are comparable with the tires double the price. Also they are smooth riding low noise so check them out.
Yes new shocks and good tires will transform your vette into the road holding performance masterpiece she was when she came from the factory. We all know how dangerous a corvette with old rubber is with even just a hint of rain.
You will have a car that inspires confidence with good rubber, brakes and shocks. Do not forget to change brake fluid regularly and go for a high friction brake pads.
Well the Nexen tires are cheap with silica tread compound i am very impressed with the dry and wet weather grip, they are comparable with the tires double the price. Also they are smooth riding low noise so check them out.
Yes new shocks and good tires will transform your vette into the road holding performance masterpiece she was when she came from the factory. We all know how dangerous a corvette with old rubber is with even just a hint of rain
. You will have a car that inspires confidence with good rubber, brakes and shocks. Do not forget to change brake fluid regularly and go for a high friction brake pads.
I have BFG g-force comp2 ordered from Discount Tire and I plan on getting som KYB shocks, central corvette has a set 4 for $169. From what I've read on here, a member was happy with the BFG's and KYB shocks are the best bang for the buck.