So I deleted my A/C. Smog pump. My targa cracked(glass) and actually got plexiglass.

Anybody actually gotten rid of other things? Id like to keep my passanger seat and radio.

 

You made a plexiglass top?

I guess you don;t understand that you can;t do that< right?

The roof panel is part of the frame. No solid roof, no solid frame. Unstable at any speed. Like a Corvair.

 

I think he means an acrylic roof panel? I hope!

 

Spare tire! I am going this route as well. My plan....A/C, spare, aluminum heads....My concern is that it will raise the car all the way around, and it's too high already, so I will have to lower it. Hopin' for 3150 curb weight. Maybe I will lose 20 pounds as well...lol

 

 

Maybe acrilyc then my insurance company took car of it. Yea I failed to mention the spare lol

 

ok, as long as the top is made for the car....
that top will prevent the car from spinning out in sweeping turns...long curves etc. Mine is so bad that because of the added torque, IF I try to drive topless, I actually cannot leave a stop and make a rt turn without the rear end trying to swing around and beat me to the on-ramp. Can;t use throttle AT ALL in the turn. Top on, gas it and go. No prob.

I dumped my spare a few yrs ago to make room for a trans cooler and eng oil cooler. Thats all been moved to the front but the spare carrier is still gone. Kinda wish I had it sometimes when I go places that I don;t want to be stranded in...if a were to get a flat.
Also, do some homework on that, The spare is part of the rear end safety system. It protects the tank. There have been threads about building a panel to do that job that were lite and strong enough to prevent a rear end collision from splitting the tank open.

If you don't mind the noise...there is 50 lbs worth of carpet and insulation and trim in the cargo area that can go.

 

Ill take a look in the cargo area, I don't really put anything back there, just occasional groceries, and a chair for the car shows. Is its difficult to remove anything back there?

 

cordless driver will do most of it. Carpets, insulation layers, bunch of trim junk, all kinds of misc ca-ca thats nothing more than dress-up stuff. Carpet alone weighs a bunch. storage doors/panels, roll up cover, hatch release (use a short cable manually).

Get in there and strip it like you stole it...you'll figure it out.

 

Loose the glass hatch and go acrylic.

 

My 84 drag car...

Removed the Ac and all smog from under the hood. Dart little M block (weighs more), alum heads. Stock radiator and fan, fan shroud ect.

Deleted the heater/AC evap box under the dash. 2 Kirkley seats but otherwise stock interior w/carpet stock dash, stock wiring and power windows all intact. All stock glass in place. All stock body pannels.

All stock suspension including IRS, which has been upgraded to D44 centersection.

Removed stock fuel tank and replaced with 5 gal cell. Removed stock lines and replaced with AN -10.

6pt roll bar and 2 10lb NO2 bottles.

3045lbs w/195lb driver.
Will

 

 

Hey will, that's a pretty cool ride. Us 84's have to stick together. What does it turn with and without nitrous??

 

lots more stuff you can drop:

got rid of the A/C already thats a good call. I ditched mine.

Is your car an auto or manual?

-If its a manual then dump the useless weight boat anchor 40 lb dual mass flywheel in favor of a 12 lb aluminum fidanza flywheel (be sure to use a sprung hub clutch so you dampen noise and cushion driveline shock from engage/disengagements). Thats rotating weight so its especially important to dump it.

-do you have headers? If not get some long tubes to dump the weight of the heavy cast iron exhaust manifolds / cats.

-lightweight battery.

-dump resonator (i cant remember if l98 has one) in favor of straight tubes

-dump mufflers if its a race only application.

- factory radio (if its bose gold) is heavy. convert to an aftermarket head unit for reduced weight / better peformance. every 1 lb counts.

- replace power seat tracks in place of manual seat sliders from a corvette without power seats.

-lightweight fiberglass (toledo pro) or carbon fiber (exotic muscle.. $$$) hood. this is low-hanging fruit that any c4er should have done.

-ditch headlights in favor of RPP's new projector headlight system for reduced weight, improved aero, better performance, more reliability.

-carpet - if you need to replace consider the non-mass backed carpet.

- starter? i cant remember which one the l98's come with. The lightweight Nippo-Denso starter on the lt1' vettes is sought after by f-body and impala ss guys.

- motor mounts - replace with solid mounts. talk to user churchkey. I think that saves almost 5 lbs.

- lexan back hatch

-lexan side windows

-lightweight doors.

 

Thanks. Yours is as well.

The car runs 10.30's @ 125mph on motor.

So far 9.50's @144mph (6.10@113mph in the 1/8th) on an 82 jet in the plate, only 700psi bottle pressure and pulling 11* timing out.... I've only made one test pass on the 82 jet.... There is lots left with some more tuning.

Just waiting for better weather to set it on kill. Even with the conserative starting tune up, the car was a handful to drive on a cold track.

Next year I'm converting the car to a sold rear axle and installing an 8.50 cert cage.... Should drive better.
Will

 

Cool, I have no idea how your IRS holds up with your hp

 

LOL... I'm sure it will break something eventually since I put the bottle on it but it's been going strong for over 2yrs just running on motor... Even the U-Joints are still stock from 1984....

The deal was thought out to "hit" the suspension as easy as possible...

28X10.5 stiff wall slicks
Tight converter
BIG camshaft
NEVER use the trans brake.....
NEVER flash the converter - Take all the slack out of the converter on the line

Plus I check U-Joints and the D44 posi break away TQ after every pass....

I have to admit, I still cringed on the first few passes with the bottle but it really feels like it leaves soft....

1.37 60ft so far.... We'll just have to see how long it last.
Will

 

Thanks rckless!

 

will!

you are an awesome datapoint.

Im going to use you in discussion with others who insist upon dumping the IRS in favor of solid rear.

To run 9's with an IRS is more than I could ever dream of.

Its cool that you are out there doing it all-the-time.

I think some of the guys who have had issues are running a manual transmission. you need the dual mass or a sprung hub clutch to dampen the initial shock to the driveline when on sticky tires.

Or....you need a not-supper-grippy clutch such that it slips a little on launch.

My last run I did on 315/35R17 tires I got about 2" of rim slip! from the tire-to-the-wheel.

 

[QUOTE=rklessdriver;1583262853]

The deal was thought out to "hit" the suspension as easy as possible...

28X10.5 stiff wall slicks
Tight converter
BIG camshaft
NEVER use the trans brake.....
NEVER flash the converter - Take all the slack out of the converter on the line



That right there is the biggest help ! Thats stops or reduces the sudden load thats slammed against the drivetrain..the peak load that can be easily related to the brief high amp draw of an electric motor when it first starts to turn...once turning the stresses are greatly reduced. Its the shock of the initial motion. Energy vs weight/mass.
The shock...take that out of the equasion and the drivetrain & IRS has a chance of surviving the rest of the loads it encounters.

Its like dumping the clutch and hoping the tires do slip just enough to stop something else from breaking... Clutches take more skill...thats why we love our automatics !

Whats the stall? fairly low to no? 2K-ish?