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How do you change the fuel filter on a 93. I attempted to the job. However, when doing so, at least 2-3 gal of gas came spewing out. I'm I missing something. I pulled the FP fuse, disconnected the battery, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Help!!!
Ok, after I pulled the fuse(F/P), the car would not start. I crank a few times to see if it would start. Nothing. So, I assume it's safe to D/C the lines/filter. However, I still have a lot of gas still coming out. How much is suppose to spew out?
Ok, after I pulled the fuse(F/P), the car would not start. I crank a few times to see if it would start. Nothing. So, I assume it's safe to D/C the lines/filter. However, I still have a lot of gas still coming out. How much is suppose to spew out?
Start it, pull the fuse, let it run until it dies. Some fuel will still leak out.
Also try to raise the front of the car as high as you can. It also helps to have the tank near empty. You can relieve fuel pressure by connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail. These gauges have a drain hose to collect the gas as the pressure drops off. Most chain parts stores have pressure gauges that you can rent at no charge.
I had the problem your having. Its siphoning itself. None of the above methods work. Even with the fuel cap off mine did this.
Pull the gas lid door, 4 screws.
Carefully remove the rubber boot around the filler neck.
ID the feed line hose off the top of the sender assy.
Hose clamp pliers on that rubber hose.
Done.
You'll still get a bit from the rails/filter/lines but it won't be crazy.
Note:I disconnected the other fuel line to, as I was replacing ALL fuel line o-rings. YOU DON'T need to do this. Just focus on the filter and its too fitting.
BTW, take the bottom nut off the filter underneath. Take line off the engine compartment stud. PULL filter up thru into engine area. MUCH easier. Just take your time.
I had about 5 gallons in catch cans before I got mine stopped.
Ok, 93 Rubie,
I'll try you way, cuz you're right, all other have not worked. I'm attempting to change the fuel filter as I've changed the spark plug/wires, but my 93 LT1 is still having a miss problem.
Any other suggestion that may resolve this problem?
If I remember correctly, when I did my fuel filter I had purchased a Purolator gas filter and it came with plastic caps on each end. When I went to do the change, I used one of the caps to temporarily cap the line from the tank that was siphoning. It seemed to work well except when I had to reattach the line and a fair amount of fuel spilled out.
@NJD, LT1 ignition problems are so common it is stupid. ICM, Coil, Opti-Spark, ECM, WIring, etc...can all be problems.
Get a cheap spark tester from Harbor Freight, that will tell a lot. I recommend a inline on to start. Put in between the coil and coil wire. Obviously, only visible with hood open, sitting still. Start here.
If you don't have a FSM you should get one.
Pulling a fuse while the circuit is in operation won't hurt anything. Your just disconnecting the power from flowing thru the circuit. I don't recommend putting it back in while the circuit is on. That can cause voltage spikes which is generally bad for things depending on what it might affect.
93Rubie,
I'll try and purchase a spark tester. you're right, it's a good tool to have. Your vette is the same year as mine. Questions, where the heck is the Ignition coil and the ICM located?
93Rubie,
I'll try and purchase a spark tester. you're right, it's a good tool to have. Your vette is the same year as mine. Questions, where the heck is the Ignition coil and the ICM located?
Thanks
They are right next to each other on the pass. side front of the cylinder head. Cannot miss it. The ICM is mounted to a heat sink, if all the thermal grease is gone this is bad. Radio shack has the grease, two bolts and you can put new grease behind the ICM.
Is there a pic that I can see, bcuz what I thought was the ICM, turns out to be the MAP sensor. My mech stated it's actually under the water pump just above the opt sprk. Which I don't is correct. So, I definitely need to locate it. For my own self knwldge..
NO NO NO, you do not need to remove water pump to get to the ICM. It is on the pass. side head. Beside all that crap and higher. I was just using that to help you locate the coil. You find the coil you found the ICM. They are mounted together. The ICM sits on a aluminum heat sink with fins. 4 Pin connector.
FSM=Factory Service Manual RED COVER ONLY, you don't want a white cover one.
I've purchased the spark tester. I have to say, this will be the first time at using this tool. So, do I ground the tester to the engine, turn the ignition into the on postion and then place the probe between the coil and the coil wire. Aslo, how do I use this tool to check the spark plug wires? Thanks
No, I don't think so. It's a High -N - Low Voltage Tester. I purchased it at Napa auto parts and I'm not sure that I'm using it properly, cuz the light does come on in the tester. I may not have attached the clip to a properly grounded area. Ok, I Also was able to locate both the Ignition coil and module. The module looks pretty simple to remove and replace. However, i'm not so sure about the coil. I see two pins that appear to be holding it in place. What tool do I need to remove the pins?