Got around to pulling me dash apart chasing rattles. Noticed the DIC had a bulb missing from the SRC spot (my car is a '93 and has the Z07 option) put a bulb in and checked codes. It gave me codes 14, 31, and 33. Any guidance as to how to check the actuators? Also how can I check the shocks to make sure they are ok? I am trying to determine whether or not the shocks need to be sent to bilstein or not.

 

Do you know if the shocks have EVER been replaced?

If not, plan on removing them and either having Bilstein revalve/rebuild them ($100 each i think with a 90 day warranty) or replace them with new ($250 each). The new ones come with a lifetime warranty. I'm saving my pennies until I can buy 4 brand new ones for my 92. 58k miles and I don't think they have ever been replaced. Wouldn't need to be in theory, but they are 20 years old so it's probably time on principal alone. NEVER COMPRESS THE SHOCKS BY HAND TO TEST THEM. This is bad for them. You can tell if they are bad by the ride you have been getting in the car, or if they are leaking any kind of fluid. If the outside of the shocks are dry then they should still be fine.

The Front actuators are easy to check. They are held in place by a simple wire clip. It actually looks like a paperclip that's been bent into shape around the bottom of the actuator. To check the actuator, open the hood, pull the clip off of the actuator and lift the actuator straight up and look inside. The gear on top of the shock could be broken, as well as the gear inside the actuator could be broken. The one inside the actuator was plastic, the one on the shock rod is a some other crappy material.

The actuator is the no brainer. A new actuator is EXPENSIVE. $350 each expensive if you get a re-manufactured one. I had mine redone by CaptainZinc (http://www.captainzcnc.com/) with a metal gear inside to replace the plastic one for $100 each. You send them your broken actuators, they send you fixed ones with metal gears. It's worth every penny without any question. The people at Captain Z were great to deal with. They also sell stronger hardened aluminum gears for the top of the shock, which I recommend also. They are a pain in the @ss to put on, but you don't have to worry half as much about the gear breaking again. Ever since I replaced the two that were giving me trouble I've had no issues at all. (Except of course that my shocks are old and need be replaced).

The rear shock actuators are tough, but they work the same way as the fronts. You just can't see them like with the clamshell hood. You'll want a FSM to get to them as the wheels will need to come off, unlike the front. I haven't replaced either of those on mine as I'm waiting till I have the shocks in hand to do all of it at the same time.

I fully believe in the FX3 system. I will keep mine up and running, but it's not for everybody. Most people are worried about the cost of the system which can be expensive. Truth be told if you have to replace it all and you did it refurb/rebuilt parts on your own at home you could do it for under $1k in an afternoon. It's if you take it to a shop where you'll have the issue. From what I hear Bilstein does a great job with the shocks, but I wouldn't get anything other than the new Shocks with lifetime warranty. The word lifetime just has a nice ring to it.

Hope any bit of that helps.

 

I would like to ride in a car with working fx3 ultimately.the shock body is dry on all 4 of mine.the car has 102k miles. I have only put on the last 2k. I don't believe they have been changed. The car rides rough and leans to the driver side a bit.

 

Lots of people have original FX3 shocks past the 100k mile point. I have no idea how long they were designed to last though. I figure mine are probably ok, except they are now 21 years old (seriously my car was built on March 10th, 1992). I just figure that if they are that old they probably need to be replace out of principal, and maybe even saftey even though they have been proven to last even longer. Really you just have to make the judgement on your own. I feel like if I'm thinking they need to be replaced for one reason or another on my own then they probably do. You should consider that thought also, especially if your car leans to one side.

I'm replacing mine piece by piece. Like I said, if you get all the pieces rebuilt you can do it for about $1k. I just personally prefer the idea of the lifetime warranty on the new shocks.

With a FSM and someone with the slightest technical knowledge (if that's not already you), you will be able to do the work in your garage in an afternoon. Changing the shocks on a C4 are definitely not the worst thing you could have to do to it.

 

My old c4 was a Z51 car, I did balljoints, springs, shocks, all bushings, changed rear gear from the factory 3.07 to a 3.55 and changed stock torque converter to a 3000 stall. I know my way around the cars just confused by the fx3 system is all. I do have all 3 books for the fsm too.

As far as the shock I think they are fine, but if there is a definitive test for them I will do it. I know the car needs springs they are both splintering a little.

 

Fantastic! This should be a synch for you.

14- Right front timeout
31- left Front out of position
33- Left rear out of position.

Usually the timeouts are the fault of the actuator, and the position is the fault of the Shock. The easiest way to check the shocks is to pull the actuator off and use your fingers to rotate the shock rod. If it rotates freely, you've got a bad shock. If it stops after 3/4 of a turn your shock is fine and your actuator is bad.

That being said, your shocks may not be bad, but the gear on top of the shocks could be bad. Captain Z sells the harder metal gears for the shocks that are definitely a wise investment. If you get it on Ebay, or from Corvette America it doesn't matter; they get them from Captain Z.

The FX3 is awesome when it works. If I were you I would rebuild the actuators through Captain Z, and replace the gear on top of the shock rods. Put them on the shocks and see what happens. At that point you've repaired what causes 90% of the problems with the FX3 system with parts that are significantly harder to break. When you put them on the car you'll then know how the shocks are. Either the SRC light will go out (except for when you first turn the car on to check it) or the light will stay on telling you which shocks is bad internally.

The older the shocks and closer they are to replacement the less you'll feel the FX3 system work. The best test is to go to go onto the highway and look for some of the slatted pavement. (either on the shoulder, or towards a toll booth ect). You should be able to feel a distinct difference in the strips at the different settings. If you feel only a minor difference then your shocks are getting worn out.

I have trouble feeling my FX3 system working on the different settings unless I'm pushing the car in one way or another. (that's the other way to tell it's working). 50mph on a highway on ramp in performance is awesome, 50mph on an on ramp in tour is scary. I know it works, it's just that my shocks became worn out from sitting as opposed to being used. You can easily and safely replicate this test in a parking lot swerving back and forth a little bit in the different settings.

Hope that helps!

 

I forgot to mention. When I had problems, I ran a code 31 on my front left. It ended up being a broken actuator gear, and a broken shock gear. Put a repaired actuator with a new gear on and that solved the problem completely. $125ish total cost.

 

I will pull both front actuators after work today. I would imagine the VSS would have an effect too? The right front vss is acting up and sets off service abs too.

 

The only thing the VSS does for your FX3 is change the valving with the actuator based on speed. If your VSS is acting up but your FX3 is throwing a code the VSS actually isn't affecting your FX3 at all.

When the FX3 throws a code, the computer moves all remaining operational pieces into "Sport Mode". As long as a code is thrown, the FX3 won't operate because it doesn't want to damage the system.

IF the VSS is throwing codes for your ABS, you should consider changing the VSS connector as it may just be a short. C4's are known for electrical problems. Past that, I'm actually not sure what else could cause the VSS issue as I haven't had any issues like that with mine.

 

I have the sensor with a new pigtail, just no way to jack the car at the moment my jack gave up on my with the car stuck on the stands. I had to borrow a friends just to get the car off the stands. Lol

 

LOL NICE!

Looks like you'll be waiting to the the VSS then! lol

Luckily the FX3 actuators on the front don't require jacks. You can easily do that with it sitting anywhere.

 

The best part is that with what problems the car has, I can still enjoy the car this spring. Yesterday was sunny and 72. The top was off all day.

Btw I had to change the opti and put a new cardone on it from advanced. Lifetime warranty and so far 2k miles and hasn't missed a beat. Highly recommended.

 

Will keep cardone in mind for sure! Mine got a new Opti at 50k (I bought at 56k) it was a PO install. Have had no issues at all, knock on wood, but I'll keep them in mind for sure when the day comes!

yea I drove my FX3 around pulling codes for a while while i tried to figure out what to do about it. Was very pleased when I found out how easily some of it could be fixed. Hasn't been that nice here in Indiana yet though. Was 60 and drizzly yesterday here, but the day will come.

 

Down here in Ga it is 55 and stormy. Good day for troubleshooting. Will it be apparent when I pull the actuator as to whether it is a gear issue?

 

It should be. You'll want to make sure you have a flashlight to shine in there to be sure though. If it's fine you'll kind of shrug and wonder if something is wrong. If something is wrong you'll see a crack in the hole in the center underneath and the gear will be in two or more pieces visible through there.

I have a broken one, and a redone one from Captain Z at home on my shelf. I'll snap a pic of the gear on the inside when I get home so you can see the difference between a plastic broken gear and a bad @ss aluminum one. Or so you can see what to look for if you end up having trouble.

 

well, here is what i found, the left front gear isn't cracked on the shock or in the actuator, if i turn the gear on the shock it turn's roughly a 1/4 turn, but with no resistance. The right front is, well, a picture is worth a thousand words.





the rest of the gear will spin in circles with no resistance at all.. looks like i need shocks and 1 actuator at a minimum.

 

haHA! Yea, Broken top gear usually means broken actuator.

It's worth sending both actuators in to be redone if you have the money even if the one is fine. The metal gear is infinitely better and ill try to get a good photo of it after dinner.

 

That's the other half of the bottom gear. LOL. I think for the time being I may just get some regular shocks and put on her until I get the money to send the fx3 shocks to bilstein and all 4 actuators to captain z

 

HA! yea I meant it was the half of the shock gear. I had one just like that.

I was having trouble getting a photo of the broken plastic gear inside my extra broken actuator, but I managed to get a decent photo from the one with the new metal gear but have been holding back on installing just yet. You looked at your plastic one and I think you will agree that the metal one is much beefier.



Lots of people go after the regular shocks since you can get a set of stock bilsteins for $350 (for all 4 of them). Just make sure you zip tie the FX3 wiring harness to your frame (especially in the back), the last thing you want to do is let them slide back into the frame of the car because I hear they are really tough to fish back out!

Good luck!

 

I thought about it some more, since the car is driveable, I don't think it will hurt anything to keep driving as is. So that's what i am going to do and save my pennies and get the shocks rebuilt first. After I get th shocks back I will see where I'm at and get the actuators as needed.