When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There could be a few things wrong: thermostat might not be opening up all the way; radiator could be clogged or real dirty; might not have the right water/coolant mixture; maybe the radiator cap is not holding enough pressure(even if it is new it could still be bad, take a pressure tester and check to see if it works properly).
thermo opens all the way because on cool nights it stays around 180. On the highway a few months ago it would stay around 175.
I'll see about testing the radiator cap. I also need to double check that i have all the air out i guess.
Look at my $260 Northern Aluminum Radiator Post :D
I will be posting more photos when I get a chance, but at 90F I'm now running 175F Highway and 215F with air in stop and go crawl on FDR in Manhattan with 2,800 stall converter on automatic!! :eek:
I may have to just borrow the extra car around the house during the day until i go back to school or can afford a new radiator. :( I hate not driving the vette! :jester
Might consider an electric water pump. It dropped my stop and go temps by 10-15*.
That's one major thing I've been thinking about.. especially since it pumps the same amount of water all the time. I'd really hate to have to replace that water pump since i spent $150 on it just a year ago. What's the cheapest price on the Meziers again?
I read an article in Car & Driver about cooling and antifreeze. The glycol has about 50% of the cooling ability as water. 50/50 mix decreases your cooling efficiency by 25%. The problems with pure water is corrosion and the article goes on to say that Zerex sells just the inhibitors. They, also, say that it isn't in most car parts stores.
I bought mine at Speed Demon for about $220. I've heard that Internet Racers Supply had them for around $200.
You'll need a heavier duty fuse holder, a relay and waterpump gaskets as well as the pump for a reliable installation. I've heard of 2 people that melted the inline fuse supplied with the pump.
Two added benefits: A) about 10-12RWHP and 2) If you have a switch on your fans you can cool your car without running the engine.
Warning: you have to remove the pump to pound out the impeller be sure to get the coolant out of the system before you disconnect the pump so you don't bathe your opti.
I bought mine at Speed Demon for about $220. I've heard that Internet Racers Supply had them for around $200.
You'll need a heavier duty fuse holder, a relay and waterpump gaskets as well as the pump for a reliable installation. I've heard of 2 people that melted the inline fuse supplied with the pump.
Two added benefits: A) about 10-12RWHP and 2) If you have a switch on your fans you can cool your car without running the engine.
Warning: you have to remove the pump to pound out the impeller be sure to get the coolant out of the system before you disconnect the pump so you don't bathe your opti.
Yep, I've been through a waterpump change before. I've got the full instructions for putting in the Mezier's somewhere.
I have the following installed and never vary from 182~190 ever both water and oil temp on my 383;
Griffen Radiator
Edelbrock Victor Wtr Pp
Mr. Gasket 180 Racing Thermostat
Add-on Oil Cooler
Water-wetter
I am running a single stock fan.
HTH
single stock fan.. jeez. Hmm.. i think i'm going to put ONE bottle of water wetter in today and see what that does. I don't think 2 is a good idea anymore :).
Curtis,
I have had good service out of my CSI pump. The CSI pump is quite a bit cheaper than the Meziere pump and is a quality piece. I picked mine up for around $140 bucks. So far this summer, I haven't been over 215F with the a/c on in traffic. It runs about 180F without the a/c on.
Curtis,
I have had good service out of my CSI pump. The CSI pump is quite a bit cheaper than the Meziere pump and is a quality piece. I picked mine up for around $140 bucks. So far this summer, I haven't been over 215F with the a/c on in traffic. It runs about 180F without the a/c on.
Hmm.. driving around today, I had a similar experience. Stop and go traffic, i never went over 215. I think that running on the highway for 15 minutes then going immediately to 5mph probably helped cause it to run so hot.
From: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
Re: Still running warm .. :( (Glock'94)
Glock,
When you put the thermostat in did you drill a 1/8" hole in it to aid in purging? I read about this in Corvette Fever and it worked great for me.
As a side effect tt also increases (ever so slightly) the total area available for flow when the thermo is wide open.
As a last resort before I spent hundreds of dollars on a new pump or radiator, I'd drill a few 1/8" holes in the thermostat. Unless you are going to be driving in snow, your beast is obviously going to have no problem warming up even with the extra "ports" in the thermostat. At worst, it doesn't work and you buy a new one for less than $7.
I'd probably try a replacement thermostat with 6 1/8" holes drilled in it and one with 3 1/8" holes. Drill 3 evenly spaced in both, then 3 in-between the 3 of the first thermo (A). Total area of 6 holes = .07sq.in. If it isn't enough to keep the car cool, re-drill the 3 holes in the second thermo (B) making them 1/4" holes. Total area of 3 1/4" holes = .14 sq.in. or twice as much. If thermo (B) doesn't work drill (A) out to 1/4" in as many of the 6 original holes as you think will get you there. If 6 1/4" holes doesn't work, find your credit card and use it to drill a hole in your pocket for an upgrade water pump or radiator.
Between the two thermos in test you should be able to figure out a setting that works pretty fast. The cost is minimal and the time to replace much less than that of a water pump or radiator. You could run 3 or 4 tests in a day easy at a cost of about $15.