New Corvette Owner: Finding my Problem.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 350
Likes: 2
From: Huntsville AL
Ever seen one of these:
It is a plug out of a Ford 3 valve Triton truck engine. That long extension on the end of the plug fits through a sleeve in the cylinder head. The sleeve is necessary to get past the intake runner and the two intake valves. This plug tip often gets caked with carbon to the point that it breaks off in the sleeve when you try to removed the sparkplug. THEN you need a $30 kit to remove the lower half of the plug from the sleeve, or a $90 kit to pull and replace the sleeve if it gets damaged in the process.
OR
You can avoid all this grief by running 40 ounces of Techron through the engine first. The Techron is optimized for use in the ratio of one ounce per gallon. Exceeding this ration by double dosing doesn't gain you much. After two bottles, the plugs come out looking practically new, with only a hint of carbon "stain" on them.
Example #2: I had a small block 305 in a Camaro that ran poorly. Two bottles of Techron didn't seem to help much, so I ended up having to tear into the engine. With the intake off, I discovered a bent pushrod and a flat intake cam lobe. The car was running on 7 cylinders. Looking down the intake runners, the back side if the intake valves were substantially cleaner than the one cylinder whose intake valve wasn't opening due to the flat cam lobe.
Seein's believing...
Send them off for testing, if you must, but go ahead and clean them first with a batch of "Snake Oil" and see if you still need to go through the wasted motion and expense of sending them off. {IMHO}
It is a plug out of a Ford 3 valve Triton truck engine. That long extension on the end of the plug fits through a sleeve in the cylinder head. The sleeve is necessary to get past the intake runner and the two intake valves. This plug tip often gets caked with carbon to the point that it breaks off in the sleeve when you try to removed the sparkplug. THEN you need a $30 kit to remove the lower half of the plug from the sleeve, or a $90 kit to pull and replace the sleeve if it gets damaged in the process.
OR
You can avoid all this grief by running 40 ounces of Techron through the engine first. The Techron is optimized for use in the ratio of one ounce per gallon. Exceeding this ration by double dosing doesn't gain you much. After two bottles, the plugs come out looking practically new, with only a hint of carbon "stain" on them.
Example #2: I had a small block 305 in a Camaro that ran poorly. Two bottles of Techron didn't seem to help much, so I ended up having to tear into the engine. With the intake off, I discovered a bent pushrod and a flat intake cam lobe. The car was running on 7 cylinders. Looking down the intake runners, the back side if the intake valves were substantially cleaner than the one cylinder whose intake valve wasn't opening due to the flat cam lobe.
Seein's believing...
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
OR
You can avoid all this grief by running 40 ounces of Techron through the engine first. The Techron is optimized for use in the ratio of one ounce per gallon. Exceeding this ration by double dosing doesn't gain you much. After two bottles, the plugs come out looking practically new, with only a hint of carbon "stain" on them.
Example #2: I had a small block 305 in a Camaro that ran poorly. Two bottles of Techron didn't seem to help much, so I ended up having to tear into the engine. With the intake off, I discovered a bent pushrod and a flat intake cam lobe. The car was running on 7 cylinders. Looking down the intake runners, the back side if the intake valves were substantially cleaner than the one cylinder whose intake valve wasn't opening due to the flat cam lobe.
Seein's believing...
Send them off for testing, if you must, but go ahead and clean them first with a batch of "Snake Oil" and see if you still need to go through the wasted motion and expense of sending them off. {IMHO}
You can avoid all this grief by running 40 ounces of Techron through the engine first. The Techron is optimized for use in the ratio of one ounce per gallon. Exceeding this ration by double dosing doesn't gain you much. After two bottles, the plugs come out looking practically new, with only a hint of carbon "stain" on them.
Example #2: I had a small block 305 in a Camaro that ran poorly. Two bottles of Techron didn't seem to help much, so I ended up having to tear into the engine. With the intake off, I discovered a bent pushrod and a flat intake cam lobe. The car was running on 7 cylinders. Looking down the intake runners, the back side if the intake valves were substantially cleaner than the one cylinder whose intake valve wasn't opening due to the flat cam lobe.
Seein's believing...
Send them off for testing, if you must, but go ahead and clean them first with a batch of "Snake Oil" and see if you still need to go through the wasted motion and expense of sending them off. {IMHO}
The skeptic in me asks if we have ruled out all other possible reasons for the valve being dirty.
If you "clean" them first, how do you know they were dirty and how dirty in the first place? How do you know, without a flow bench whether you need to send them off or not? It isn't that difficult to pull nor that expensive to do it ever few years. So say I dump the snake oil in, how can you know whether there is any issue or not unless you pull the injectors and flow test them?
Only way I know of doing it according to testing standards is to run half of a large batch with and half without and test them all on a bench. Obviously you'd have to know what they flow before to see whether there is improvement and how much. I had 8 injectors all firing at different rates but you can't tell. Car ran fine. One of them even had a collapsed filter basket and was flowing way under relatively but not enough to shut the engine down or make it easily noticed.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 350
Likes: 2
From: Huntsville AL
Has anyone ever proven that in a double blind experiment or is that anecdotal?
The skeptic in me asks if we have ruled out all other possible reasons for the valve being dirty.
If you "clean" them first, how do you know they were dirty and how dirty in the first place? How do you know, without a flow bench whether you need to send them off or not? It isn't that difficult to pull nor that expensive to do it ever few years. So say I dump the snake oil in, how can you know whether there is any issue or not unless you pull the injectors and flow test them?
Only way I know of doing it according to testing standards is to run half of a large batch with and half without and test them all on a bench. Obviously you'd have to know what they flow before to see whether there is improvement and how much. I had 8 injectors all firing at different rates but you can't tell. Car ran fine. One of them even had a collapsed filter basket and was flowing way under relatively but not enough to shut the engine down or make it easily noticed.
The skeptic in me asks if we have ruled out all other possible reasons for the valve being dirty.
If you "clean" them first, how do you know they were dirty and how dirty in the first place? How do you know, without a flow bench whether you need to send them off or not? It isn't that difficult to pull nor that expensive to do it ever few years. So say I dump the snake oil in, how can you know whether there is any issue or not unless you pull the injectors and flow test them?
Only way I know of doing it according to testing standards is to run half of a large batch with and half without and test them all on a bench. Obviously you'd have to know what they flow before to see whether there is improvement and how much. I had 8 injectors all firing at different rates but you can't tell. Car ran fine. One of them even had a collapsed filter basket and was flowing way under relatively but not enough to shut the engine down or make it easily noticed.
I don't know if you read the original post or not, but the baseline situation here is a vehicle with unknown maintenance history that has sat with stale gas in it for two years. By your own words above, even a marginal set of injectors can appear to run "just fine".
To expand on my "Example #2", the engine was in my brother's truck. He broke off two plugs due to the carbon build up before resorting to chemicals. The tips we fished out of the engine were a mess, while the post chemical plugs looked practically new. I'd say this "anecdotal" evidence is as strong or stronger than your assertion that cleaning and testing injectors that run "just fine" will yield measurable results that would indicate some level of "finer"
As a direct, LOGICAL argument against your insistence on shipping the injectors off to Club Med for a make over, putting new or freshly cleaned injectors into a dirty, gummy fuel system is just going to result in them getting clogged up again. The suggested chemical of choice passes through the injector once, whereas it circulates through the fuel system several times via the fuel pressure regulator and fuel return line, cleaning the entire fuel system in the process and readying the system to accept your "Born Again" injectors with open arms.
Let's get the major bugs out of this guy's car before we start advocating small incremental, anecdotal improvements.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
From: North Bay Ontario
No doubt, old gas and vacuum leaks are very plausible culpits, but I recommend that you focus on correcting the ECM codes that you know exist.
Start with the most likely to cause poor performance in this order...
Code 34: A failed MAF sensor will definitely cause the acceleration problems you describe. How does the car run if you disconnect the MAF?
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
Start with the most likely to cause poor performance in this order...
Code 34: A failed MAF sensor will definitely cause the acceleration problems you describe. How does the car run if you disconnect the MAF?
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 350
Likes: 2
From: Huntsville AL
No doubt, old gas and vacuum leaks are very plausible culpits, but I recommend that you focus on correcting the ECM codes that you know exist.
Start with the most likely to cause poor performance in this order...
Code 34: A failed MAF sensor will definitely cause the acceleration problems you describe. How does the car run if you disconnect the MAF?
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
Start with the most likely to cause poor performance in this order...
Code 34: A failed MAF sensor will definitely cause the acceleration problems you describe. How does the car run if you disconnect the MAF?
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
No doubt, old gas and vacuum leaks are very plausible culpits, but I recommend that you focus on correcting the ECM codes that you know exist.
Start with the most likely to cause poor performance in this order...
Code 34: A failed MAF sensor will definitely cause the acceleration problems you describe. How does the car run if you disconnect the MAF?
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
Start with the most likely to cause poor performance in this order...
Code 34: A failed MAF sensor will definitely cause the acceleration problems you describe. How does the car run if you disconnect the MAF?
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
43: I will check that in a minute, if I can find it lol
I put some work in on it today, but nothing that helped dramatically. Changed the front break pads which still had alot of life in em actually but I did it anyways and I saw some improvement at least after cleaning all the break parts, no more squealing. Figured out I probably have a power steering fluid leak in the process, but unless there is a quick easy fix on this I will focus on my other issues first though.
I checked the voltage on the TPS at start-up/idle, around 4.9 Volts, is that high enough to be a problem, is there a straightforward way to adjust this? I tried to rev it up but I observed no change in Voltage, but I may have been doing it wrong, I didn't know the proper way to check the voltage on it so I ran a wire out from the connection and reconnected it (on pin 3 or 1) to and pin 2 was 0.5 V at idle and up to 2V when I revved it high, but I didn't ever go all the way up to full throttle.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
I don't know if you read the original post or not, but the baseline situation here is a vehicle with unknown maintenance history that has sat with stale gas in it for two years. By your own words above, even a marginal set of injectors can appear to run "just fine".
To expand on my "Example #2", the engine was in my brother's truck. He broke off two plugs due to the carbon build up before resorting to chemicals. The tips we fished out of the engine were a mess, while the post chemical plugs looked practically new. I'd say this "anecdotal" evidence is as strong or stronger than your assertion that cleaning and testing injectors that run "just fine" will yield measurable results that would indicate some level of "finer"
As a direct, LOGICAL argument against your insistence on shipping the injectors off to Club Med for a make over, putting new or freshly cleaned injectors into a dirty, gummy fuel system is just going to result in them getting clogged up again. The suggested chemical of choice passes through the injector once, whereas it circulates through the fuel system several times via the fuel pressure regulator and fuel return line, cleaning the entire fuel system in the process and readying the system to accept your "Born Again" injectors with open arms.
Let's get the major bugs out of this guy's car before we start advocating small incremental, anecdotal improvements.
I believe the Multecs are bad from the get go. That is why I think he should get them replaced or cleaned at least so we can eliminate a problem. With them tested, at this point, we will KNOW it isn't them and we can eliminate them. Knocking could be poor atomization of gas or insufficient gas. Both can be see on the bench as poor spray pattern and inconsistent volume of fuel
Short of the line being plugged up or the fuel pump bad, I'm not sure what else you are cleaning that is plugged up. Maybe the regulator? Either way, we should do a fuel pressure test to see if it is getting the required fuel pressure and whether it can maintain the pressure. OTOH, he is going to have to get new or cleaned injectors so why not do it now?
I think the knocking is due to the injectors and the ECM is trying to compensate which is why I advocate cleaning them or changing them. If nothing else, we just did something that is going to have to be done and it eliminates something that could be problematic.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Someone posted about the catalytic converter, I plan on replacing it with a straight pipe (no emissions here), but I am focussing on the more pressing issues first. Have a friend who has done it and offered to help.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
Code 34: A failed MAF sensor will definitely cause the acceleration problems you describe. How does the car run if you disconnect the MAF?
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
Code 43: Electronic Spark Control - this is your timing control... you mentioned that it knocked on acceleration - check the little brown wire near the power brake booster...is it disconnected/broken?
Code 32: This is most likely an emissions issue and shouldn't affect performance, not a priority, but certainly needs to be fixed - likely an EGR valve or it could have been caused by the vacuum leaks you discovered.
Code 15: Unless your car is overheating, this is unlikely to be the cause of your problems, but again - it needs attention.
Also, presuming it has a catalytic convertor, I'd be checking for a clogged catalytic convertor.
Good luck!
Doesn't that come on when you disconnect the wire? Could it be an intermittent code? Maybe clear all codes and disconnect the wire and shine a timing light at the balancer and see if it moves when you connect the tan wire? It should advance once directed by the ECM
CTS might be interesting. Again, with a scanner he can see what value the ECM is seeing. I believe at startup it should be at ambient temp.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
Do either of you have a FSM and a scanner (Not code reader)?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
I would think that once could siphon out the gas and burn it up in a lawnmower or something and dump fresh gas in it.
I believe the Multecs are bad from the get go. That is why I think he should get them replaced or cleaned at least so we can eliminate a problem. With them tested, at this point, we will KNOW it isn't them and we can eliminate them. Knocking could be poor atomization of gas or insufficient gas. Both can be see on the bench as poor spray pattern and inconsistent volume of fuel
Short of the line being plugged up or the fuel pump bad, I'm not sure what else you are cleaning that is plugged up. Maybe the regulator? Either way, we should do a fuel pressure test to see if it is getting the required fuel pressure and whether it can maintain the pressure. OTOH, he is going to have to get new or cleaned injectors so why not do it now?
I think the knocking is due to the injectors and the ECM is trying to compensate which is why I advocate cleaning them or changing them. If nothing else, we just did something that is going to have to be done and it eliminates something that could be problematic.
I believe the Multecs are bad from the get go. That is why I think he should get them replaced or cleaned at least so we can eliminate a problem. With them tested, at this point, we will KNOW it isn't them and we can eliminate them. Knocking could be poor atomization of gas or insufficient gas. Both can be see on the bench as poor spray pattern and inconsistent volume of fuel
Short of the line being plugged up or the fuel pump bad, I'm not sure what else you are cleaning that is plugged up. Maybe the regulator? Either way, we should do a fuel pressure test to see if it is getting the required fuel pressure and whether it can maintain the pressure. OTOH, he is going to have to get new or cleaned injectors so why not do it now?
I think the knocking is due to the injectors and the ECM is trying to compensate which is why I advocate cleaning them or changing them. If nothing else, we just did something that is going to have to be done and it eliminates something that could be problematic.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
He might be better off getting a scanner. I'm not sure of the values he should be getting since I have SD and not MAF and my car isn't stock anymore. Someone could chime in with a stock car.
Doesn't that come on when you disconnect the wire? Could it be an intermittent code? Maybe clear all codes and disconnect the wire and shine a timing light at the balancer and see if it moves when you connect the tan wire? It should advance once directed by the ECM
CTS might be interesting. Again, with a scanner he can see what value the ECM is seeing. I believe at startup it should be at ambient temp.
Doesn't that come on when you disconnect the wire? Could it be an intermittent code? Maybe clear all codes and disconnect the wire and shine a timing light at the balancer and see if it moves when you connect the tan wire? It should advance once directed by the ECM
CTS might be interesting. Again, with a scanner he can see what value the ECM is seeing. I believe at startup it should be at ambient temp.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 76
From: Santa Maria, CA
I would think that once could siphon out the gas and burn it up in a lawnmower or something and dump fresh gas in it.
I believe the Multecs are bad from the get go. That is why I think he should get them replaced or cleaned at least so we can eliminate a problem. With them tested, at this point, we will KNOW it isn't them and we can eliminate them. Knocking could be poor atomization of gas or insufficient gas. Both can be see on the bench as poor spray pattern and inconsistent volume of fuel
Short of the line being plugged up or the fuel pump bad, I'm not sure what else you are cleaning that is plugged up. Maybe the regulator? Either way, we should do a fuel pressure test to see if it is getting the required fuel pressure and whether it can maintain the pressure. OTOH, he is going to have to get new or cleaned injectors so why not do it now?
I think the knocking is due to the injectors and the ECM is trying to compensate which is why I advocate cleaning them or changing them. If nothing else, we just did something that is going to have to be done and it eliminates something that could be problematic.
I believe the Multecs are bad from the get go. That is why I think he should get them replaced or cleaned at least so we can eliminate a problem. With them tested, at this point, we will KNOW it isn't them and we can eliminate them. Knocking could be poor atomization of gas or insufficient gas. Both can be see on the bench as poor spray pattern and inconsistent volume of fuel
Short of the line being plugged up or the fuel pump bad, I'm not sure what else you are cleaning that is plugged up. Maybe the regulator? Either way, we should do a fuel pressure test to see if it is getting the required fuel pressure and whether it can maintain the pressure. OTOH, he is going to have to get new or cleaned injectors so why not do it now?
I think the knocking is due to the injectors and the ECM is trying to compensate which is why I advocate cleaning them or changing them. If nothing else, we just did something that is going to have to be done and it eliminates something that could be problematic.
Knocking does not necessarily mean bad injectors. The 85 has cast iron heads. If the heads have carbon deposits (which they probably do) the hotter running cast iron heads combined with deposits will cause detonation. I had that in my 85 and I had a clean fuel system.
Before replacing parts and hoping for the best, I would advocate using the shop manual to work through the stored codes. I would start with the MAF code. Simply unplugging the MAF is not a real test. One needs to determine if the MAF circuits are good. If he has a voltmeter and the manual, it's a relatively simple process. I have the manual and will assist him if he likes.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
I believe he stated earlier that the injectors were replaced by the previous owner.
Knocking does not necessarily mean bad injectors. The 85 has cast iron heads. If the heads have carbon deposits (which they probably do) the hotter running cast iron heads combined with deposits will cause detonation. I had that in my 85 and I had a clean fuel system.
Before replacing parts and hoping for the best, I would advocate using the shop manual to work through the stored codes. I would start with the MAF code. Simply unplugging the MAF is not a real test. One needs to determine if the MAF circuits are good. If he has a voltmeter and the manual, it's a relatively simple process. I have the manual and will assist him if he likes.
Knocking does not necessarily mean bad injectors. The 85 has cast iron heads. If the heads have carbon deposits (which they probably do) the hotter running cast iron heads combined with deposits will cause detonation. I had that in my 85 and I had a clean fuel system.
Before replacing parts and hoping for the best, I would advocate using the shop manual to work through the stored codes. I would start with the MAF code. Simply unplugging the MAF is not a real test. One needs to determine if the MAF circuits are good. If he has a voltmeter and the manual, it's a relatively simple process. I have the manual and will assist him if he likes.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 76
From: Santa Maria, CA
OK let's follow the book.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 1 minute to clear the codes.
2. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
3. If there's a check engine light, check for codes. I believe you know the paperclip method.
4. If there's a code 34, clear the codes and disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF sensor. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
5. Check for codes and report back.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 1 minute to clear the codes.
2. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
3. If there's a check engine light, check for codes. I believe you know the paperclip method.
4. If there's a code 34, clear the codes and disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF sensor. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
5. Check for codes and report back.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
OK let's follow the book.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 1 minute to clear the codes.
2. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
3. If there's a check engine light, check for codes. I believe you know the paperclip method.
4. If there's a code 34, clear the codes and disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF sensor. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
5. Check for codes and report back.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 1 minute to clear the codes.
2. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
3. If there's a check engine light, check for codes. I believe you know the paperclip method.
4. If there's a code 34, clear the codes and disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF sensor. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute or until the check engine light comes on.
5. Check for codes and report back.
34 was the only code seen the first time.
After disconnecting the electrical connection to the MAF and resetting I got:
15
33