new waterpump question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
new waterpump question
I took my water pump off about 2 months ago and ended up getting into more projects. I finally am ready to put everything back together and now there is rust on the area/flange/ears where the water pump gaskets go. How should I deal with this? sand it a little, steel wool. I am afraid to gouge up the surface and cause a leak. There was no rust when the pump came off and I coated it with wd40 but it rusted so now what. I am thinking super fine sand paper and clean it up a bit but I have never done this before. Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
Either steel wool or fine sandpaper will work ok .If it's rusted it's a steel pump so I don't think your going to harm the gasket surface with sandpaper or steel wool... Just knock the rust off and then clean the surface with something like brake cleaner. I always suggest using a gasket sealer when installing a water pump....WW
Last edited by WW7; Mar 24, 2013 at 08:09 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Fine sandpaper or steel wool to get the surface rust off the block. suggest putting something in the block inlets before using either....just to keep the "junk" from getting into the block.
Wipe off with brake cleaner and then a thin coat of RTV on the block, put the WP gaskets on, then a light coating of RTV onto the gaskets and then put the water pump on, torque the bolts in stages uisng a criss-cross pattern until final torque is obtained.
Do not add coolant for 24 hours....allow the RTV to cure.
This is the method I use and have not had a WP leak afterwards.
Wipe off with brake cleaner and then a thin coat of RTV on the block, put the WP gaskets on, then a light coating of RTV onto the gaskets and then put the water pump on, torque the bolts in stages uisng a criss-cross pattern until final torque is obtained.
Do not add coolant for 24 hours....allow the RTV to cure.
This is the method I use and have not had a WP leak afterwards.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I have used "Copper Coat" for years and it has worked fine. It comes in either a spray can or a small can with a brush top.
As far as waiting, when a shop replaces a water pump, coolant is added as soon as everything is back together and the engine is ready to be started. Depending on the engine, it may be only 10-15 minutes before coolant is added and the engine started. Just make sure that the w/p bolts are tightened equally.
The techs in our shop will use a black RTV sealant. There are a number of good RTV sealants" Permatex Ultra Black RTV, "The Right Stuff" or the Mopar RTV sealant (get it at any Mopar dealership).
As far as waiting, when a shop replaces a water pump, coolant is added as soon as everything is back together and the engine is ready to be started. Depending on the engine, it may be only 10-15 minutes before coolant is added and the engine started. Just make sure that the w/p bolts are tightened equally.
The techs in our shop will use a black RTV sealant. There are a number of good RTV sealants" Permatex Ultra Black RTV, "The Right Stuff" or the Mopar RTV sealant (get it at any Mopar dealership).
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
Thanks guys. I should be good from here. I have to get a new steering rack in and then the water pump. weather should start getting better here soon. cant wait to drive again but I still have a lot of things to do to it.
