Are you talking about an 84 only?

Thank You!!

Thank you Fred!!

Thank You!

I have a different set up in the 94. Here is a pic http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/br...oling%20system

Yes, I know that the 94 is a little different than my 95. But last week i changed EVERY HOSE on my friends 94. There is a single 3/8" hose off the passenger side of the radiator that connects to the aluminum line. This forward section is what is often plugged because the line diameter is restricted to about a 1/16" hole. The aluminum line then goes to the rear and is split. One section goes to the filler reservoir (connected with the rubber hose see picture, it is the bottom hose clamp) and the other (about 16-18 inch long rubber hose goes to another tube that runs to the rear of the engine. The section that goes to the reservoir connects to the lower part. There is another 3/8" rubber hose that comes off the top of the reservoir in the cap section that goes to the other aluminum tube and then down to the white plastic overflow tank up front.

Let me see if I can get a picture of my reservoir on my 95...it is in the same location as your 94. Will be back with a picture.

Picture...

The hoses to the heater core are under the tank. The core is inside the car, not the engine bay.

John is right. So to flush the old coolant out of the heater core, locate those two hoses (they're about 5/8" diameter) and disconnect them from the engine at a convenient location. Pour tap water into one hose, and have the other hose going to your collection bucket. When the water come out clear, your heater core is flushed. I usually blow through the hoses after that to get a chunk of tap water out before I hook the hoses back up...but that is probably not necessary. I am looking to get the system as clean and empty as I can, before the new fill.

OK now that makes more sense to me. A picture paints a thousand words. Thank you!!

Thank You Tom!

Does the car overheat if you do not open the bleeder valve?

No, it should not. Especially since you should have the cap off the fill reservoir as you are adding coolant. Air will be forced thru the system and come bubbling up in the reservoir.

It was bubbling over and out so I closed the cap. It went over 233 (overheated) on the digital temp and hit 260 (overheated) on the analog. I shut it down. Opened bleeder valve on passanger side to let steam out. Started the car again with the one bleeder valve open until antifreeze came out then closed it. This time just the analog temp guage went to 260 but the digital went to 180. Waiting for it to cool down and then I will open the driver side bleeder while the car is running. Think this will help?

Did your fans come one?? You can help things along if you turn on your A/C...this forces the fans on early.

Concerned about the two different temp readings...260 vs 180?

I would have run it with the A/C on to keep the temps in line as you continued to fill the system. I only had to open the bleeder on the thermostat housing a couple of times when I did my firend's 94.

Did you have coolant flowing in from the lower 3/8" line into the reservoir? This comes from the top of the radiator and would purge air trapped at the top of the radiator. If you didn't, then the line is plugged.

1. Don't put any weight on what the analog gauge says. It is just a "rough estimate" of the operating conditions. Use the digital gauge.

2. system doesn't "know" or "care" if the heater is on or not, so don't worry about having the heater on. Only reason you'd run the heater during this excercise would be to prove to yourself that the coolant is cirulating coolant through the heater core.

John is suggesting the AC b/c it makes the electric cooling fan run, which could help your "high temps" -if you are really getting high temps.

If you had the bleeder open, air came out, then you got a good airless slug of coolant, then closed it you're done with the coolant.

If your radiator is cold, and you engine is hot (hotter than 200*), then your thermostat isn't opening, or your water pump isn't pumping.

Try the test again...monitor only the digital gauge.

There should be coolant in the hose (bottom) it goes to the thermostat housing. Your stat is not opening or you installed it upside down. You are not getting coolant flowing thru the engine if this hose is cold!!!!

I don't think it's possible to install an LT1 thermostat upside down, is it? AFAIK, it won't fit (upside down) w/in the T-stat housing. (?)

Yes on the air being purged from the 3/8 hose into the reservoir. It was bubbling. Started it again with cap off. Analog guage way past 260 and digital guage 233 so I shut it down. Antifreeze spewing all over from the reservoir with the cap off.
The bottom hose got hot this time.
This sucks!! I took some pics of the temps. Will post later.
Not sure what else to do. Maybe need to take to my local shop to check for me.

Decided to take the theostat out. That hose does mot seem to ne getting anything. Radiator inlet hose no problem

Are your fans coming on?