You don't really need to worry about adjusting the backlash in the ring gear.... IF it's quiet and in spec I'd leave it alone.... It is something that you want to check every season or so on a race car or high performance car that gets track time.... if you keep records of this stuff (backlash, posi breakaway, ect) you can catch potential problems before they get so bad you need to rebuild the entire diff.

Stub axle end play has nothing to do with the clutch pack.

The stub axle end play is totally controlled by the snap ring and the clearance between the end of the stub axle and cross pin shaft (pushing in) then by the snap ring and the side gear (pulling out) .

You use thicker snap rings (to take up more space) to decrease end play and use thinner snap rings to increase end play.

Rebuilding the Posi is something you should do since your going to have it apart to fix the stub axle end play. The clutch pack and pinion washers are cheap and it's one of those things you can take care of now and not have to worry about taking the rear end apart again later.
Will

 

Thanks again. I'm seriously considering pulling it after this weekend. Snap rings, a few washers, and a clutch pack rebuild kit are pretty inexpensive.

A little $$$ now might prevent a lot more later.

Plus, I can add some poly bushings to the diff. housing while I'm at it.

I'll update this thread when I find out more, or if things change.

 

I apologize for jumping in but on the lines of the yokes and play what keeps the yoke shafts from hitting the pinion shaft. When mine are all the way in they touch the pinion shaft? C clip keeps it from moving out. Thanks

 

You have no issues if your end-play is within specifications, those are not c-clips but rather thickness specific snap rings. I'm sure you've a C4 FSM of some year hanging around to confirm specifications. If not post back.

Will "rklessdriver" is very near you and would like to I'm sure check out your project! Get Will to take a look at what you've got,

 

The shaft determines how far in the axles can go, the snap rings limit how far out they can go. In other words, its ok that they touch the shaft.

 

Thanks and yes snap rings vice c clips. So we are measuring the movement from the shaft touching the pinion shaft out is that correct?

 

Correct.

When I set these diffs up - I put a feeler gauge between the cross shaft and the inner end of stub axle.... then I can just slide the back edge of the various thickness snap rings in the retaining groove on stub axle to gauge how thick of a snap ring I will need to make the desired end play.

This method is way easier to do than installing and removing those snap rings everytime.

If you need any help with it feel free to PM me. I have the special tools from OTC and SPICER to remove and install the clutches, mics and dial indicators as well.
Will

 

Thanks, Dale City is a rocks through away. Before your response I was thinking feeler gauge as well. The Dana 44/gears look pretty darn good and have 3.92 gears in it. here is my build but I might take you up on your offer.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ica-kinda.html

Kevin

 

Will would you mind sending me the OTC and Spicer special tool part numbers. I never did get the rear end taken care of. I've monitored it closely and thus far no drop off in breakaway torque or more endplay. That being said it WILL get torn down this winter.

 

No problem. All of my tools were mfgr'd by Miller SPX for Dana and OTC.

Miller SPX PN C4487-5 (splined adapter)

Miller SPX PN's C4487-1, C4487–2, C4487–3 (Clutch Pack Spreader Tools)

Miller SPX PN C4487-4 (clutch pack breaker bar)

Here is a link to the write up I did on D44 Trac Lock rebuild. It is complete with pics of the tools and how to use them.

http://www.corvetteforum.guru/module...orumpost205599

Hope it helps.

Will

 

Resetting this thread as its mine and I'm actually doing this project....FINALLY. Built a garage to work on this car. Entire driveline is out. Diff....for see above. Transmission for a new clutch.

I found the following on the Dana 44 tear down.
Nothing broke, wear patterns,etc...all seem to be in good shape.

I measured endplay and this is where things got interesting. Left side had .006" with a .079" clip. Right side was .009" (This is the side with the noticeable in and out movement when checking the suspension.) with a .085" clip.

It appears Tom's sells the clips, so if I got a .085 for the left side it should be near minimum. If I get a .090" for the right side it would put me at .004" endplay, which is within specs.

I'm replacing the clutch packs regardless while I am in here. However, they appear ok and my breakaway has not changed much over the past two years. Still about the same as it was in my older posts.

Honestly, the unit is nice for 70K miles on it. The fluid was dark. I changed it with a siphon gun a few years ago to Redline 75W-90 and never had an issue. I doubt I got all the old stuff out so maybe that is why its dark. Inside the case the interior has like a dark film on it except the very bottom 2" or so. Not sure what that is about. Seems many recommend Lucas 75-140 so I may go to that with this "rebuild."

Not changing any bearings/gear set or anything. Nothing is wrong with those.

I will be calling Tom's soon to order parts and get any recommendations.