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So i'm on my last stretch of CFI to carb conversion and now for some reason the barely used mini starter won't spin. I pulled the engine and replaced some of the old worn out wires with new ones (all in the correct positions). I have 12v on the solonoid in the right spot and the ignition is hooked up correctly but the starter won't start. It just clicks once and unclicks when I let go of the key. Any ideas? Brand new starter, was working before I replaced the wiring.
That thread is addressing the primary starting circuit (key to starter, so to speak). The OP has confirmed 12v at the starter solenoid and has solenoid clicking, which means that the entire primary starting circuit is working when he turns the key. His problem is either:
1. No power to the starter from the battery CABLE
2. Starter is toast.
I would test the starter by connecting a jumper cable (hooked to a battery) to the big lug on the starter. If you make good connections and the starter does nothing...it's bad.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 30, 2013 at 12:52 PM.
So i'm on my last stretch of CFI to carb conversion and now for some reason the barely used mini starter won't spin. I pulled the engine and replaced some of the old worn out wires with new ones (all in the correct positions). I have 12v on the solonoid in the right spot and the ignition is hooked up correctly but the starter won't start. It just clicks once and unclicks when I let go of the key. Any ideas? Brand new starter, was working before I replaced the wiring.
Redo the install after checking the starter. Be sure to be sure to get the shimming right.
Starters hate me... Had this , and other problems.
Ours had the tang from the solenoid crack... don't know how [ suspect 16 yo dropped it ?? he denied it] .. but it was cracked did.
DC does not like any gaps.. and it got worse after a little melting..
Have three broken cheap mini starters. That one, one that cracked the Al. clocking block when torqued, and the lasts that had the engaging arm break...?
Bought a NAPA High Torque model for a 1971 LT1/big block... no issues. A little heavy thought?
Definitely have some good connections throughout the system. Only weird thing is that solenoid wire goes from a 1/4" wire to like 14 gauge or something around 1/8" thick, but even if I put 12v from the battery to starter cable on the solenoid it still does the same thing. I put 12v on the other post of the starter which should turn it over it didn't, so I think the starter is done for. I'm gonna get the battery and starter tested tomorrow though.
Turn the headlights on and turn the key and try and start the motor. If the headlights dim Batery conection problem like maybe the neg terminal. If the headlights stay strong and dont dim at all get under by the starter and jump it with a screw driver from the batery hot wire on the starter to the small wire on the starter sol. It should crank by jumping the starter sol. Dont think the starter is bad I bet u have a connection problem. Maybe the neg terminal that u dissconected or the conections to the sol and this is all asuming u did not over tighten the small nut on the sol and cracked it
Definitely have some good connections throughout the system. Only weird thing is that solenoid wire goes from a 1/4" wire to like 14 gauge or something around 1/8" thick, but even if I put 12v from the battery to starter cable on the solenoid it still does the same thing. I put 12v on the other post of the starter which should turn it over it didn't, so I think the starter is done for. I'm gonna get the battery and starter tested tomorrow though.
I put 12v on the other post of the starter which should turn it over it didn't, so I think the starter is done for.
That would be the definitive test.
If applying 12V as noted above assuming you have full batt power and a good ground /Neg available through clean , tight connections direct
to the starter itself ( bypassing the solenoid ) has no effect then high likely the stater is shot.
No further testing needed
No. No No The starter needs 12 volts to the starter and then 12 volts to the sol to engage the sol to get it spinning or crank the motor.
Thats why I told u to get a screw driver and touch the 12 volt hot battery connection at the starter and touch the small screw on the sol. Dude
Jump the sol to spin the motor and only if u didnt crack the sol from over tightening the sol little screw.
That would be the definitive test.
If applying 12V as noted above assuming you have full batt power and a good ground /Neg available through clean , tight connections direct
to the starter itself ( bypassing the solenoid ) has no effect then high likely the stater is shot.
No further testing needed
i agree and dont mean to question his abilities but starter post is generic enough that he could think that the solenoid post is also the starter post. I assume he does since he stated he got the same results. There would be no identical clicking sound from the starter post side of the solenoid...
Just finished removing the starter to test it. The starter 'pops out' when I put 12v to both the solenoid posts but does not spin. However the starter spins when I give it 12v. Is there anyway to repair the solenoid? I put my old starter back in and it works, just afraid of the horrendous heat soak that starter gets.