Wierd Starting Problem?
Had the battery(1 year old), alternator and stater checked at Napa Auto Parts and everything checked out good.
What could be causing this? Starter Solenoid or relay?
After I initially get it started, it starts everytime!
If cleaning the cable end doesn't solve the problem, continue down the positive cable, and clean the terminal at the solenoid.
If that doesn't fix the problem, jump the solenoid to the starter. If jumping starts the motor, the solenoid could be your problem.
Last edited by don hall; May 5, 2013 at 06:09 PM.
Starter is readily accessible.
Some reading material that may help: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...ter-relay.html
Last edited by don hall; May 5, 2013 at 07:37 PM.
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I did still take off the battery cables and cleaned them both, the positive was a little dirty, but not bad.
I did notice the dimmer switch was in the full up position, maybe that is what drained the battery?
The only other thing I did different was install the rear hatch vent, but the lights were all off when I closed it?
Anyway, she runs fine now!

I did still take off the battery cables and cleaned them both, the positive was a little dirty, but not bad.
I did notice the dimmer switch was in the full up position, maybe that is what drained the battery?
The only other thing I did different was install the rear hatch vent, but the lights were all off when I closed it?
Anyway, she runs fine now!

Yes, if the dimmer switch was in the 'up' position, there will be an extended battery drain (10 minutes), but the lights are turned off after that period of time.
Thanks for reporting back with results.

I'm not sure what the cause was, but I'm glad she works again!
Since the batt is only 1 year old, and always on a tender, there should not be any drop in charge. I'm aware you had it tested.
If you experience battery failure in the future while still using a tender, there is an electrical problem.... more likely a faulty batt,
or an amp draw exceeding the charging rate of the tender.
It is possible that a 'poor' batt cable connection would not carry the charge from the tender, consequently, you experienced a failed batt. The same would affect the alternator charge. The batt may not have been receiving a complete recharge.
Normally, a batt test includes a 'load' test. If that wasn't performed, it should be the next time.
It would be interesting to learn what the digital volt reading you see on start-up (14.5V+ normal) for about 5+ minutes.
Last edited by don hall; May 6, 2013 at 08:59 PM.
Was the alternator removed and load tested, also?
you cannot see inside it, and it may work fine for weeks at a time until that day where it just will not carry the amperage to throw the solenoid.
A dirty/dying solenoid will also do all this...the solenoid contacts get burnt, then as you turn the key the voltage might flow but the contacts are too dirty to conduct. new solenoid or at least a disassembly to clean and inspect.
For a few minutes after start up your gauge should show at least 14.0 volts...at least that. Then after the initial drain has been replaced, it should settle in the 13s depending on what accessories are running and rpm.
Had the battery(1 year old), alternator and stater checked at Napa Auto Parts and everything checked out good.
What could be causing this? Starter Solenoid or relay?
After I initially get it started, it starts everytime!

u could of overcharged ur battery water out. If u ve been doing this for a while.
Check ur battery water level
How do you check the water level of a sealed battery? Virtually 100% of the batteries made today are sealed and shouldn't be opened (if you can even do it).
Like Cliff said it's fully automatic and won't hurt your battery, just keeps it fully charged at all times.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PLSztkJGqE









