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I FINALLY drove my Corvette last night ! I turned the key and imediately it fired up. It has sat for a year. Engine rebuild ect. I also have the stuck valve thread. Anyway not sure what cylinder number it is ? Driver side first injector has the SLP runners pressed up against it. It is so tight there is absolutley NO wiggle room. We thought it might be an issue but that was confirmed after 5-8 minutes of driving. Popped the hood and smelled gas where a little puddle formed. My suggestion is remove it and shave a millimeter off in the spot where its pressed against the injector.
Are you sure you have them on right?
Here is a picture of my old set up and there was plenty of room there. Is one of the runners notched out for the injector and maybe on the wrong side?
I would just put a washer under the fuel rail mounting bracket. I did this before and it was fine. The puddle of fuel doesn't sound good. Might have boogered up the o-ring or the injector.
the runners should clear ok. Even IF you have Bosch-III injectors that are a hair shorter...you CAN space them with extenders. The secret that many folks don;t understand is that you MUST have your injector turned the right way when you "set" the rail and snap the inj into the compressed O-ring. Turning the inj after its been set will cause the o-ring to wrinkle & tear causing a good leak. There is plently of inj stem fitted thru the o-ring, so they CAN move up/down 3 or 4 mm and still seal. So, you can space the rails up with washers if you need to and the inj will still seal.
BUT, they will not tolerate twisting inside the O-ring...leak city. If its absolutely not going to fit (cause the runners are on the wrong side as suggested) then you CAN also double the runner gasket at the top and get some space to clear the rails. Sealing runners is easy since they are NOT pressure seals...lite vacuum only.
BTW..regarding pulling valve covers off....IT IS fast and EASY if your mechanic sets the thing up right...there are a couple bolts in the brackets that are in the wrong way making it necessary to do a LOT of unnecessary work just to lift valve covers...by tuirning 1 or 2 bolts around when its assembled, that saves HOURS later.
All you have to do is turn that bolt around, nut the front side and the head is toward the valves instead of 3/8" of a bolt sticking out that DOES cause the covers to hang. Pulling the wiper motor is a 2 minutes job with tools, (1/4" drive 10mm socket with extensions and a wobbler)...passenger cover is egr pipe (2-10mm bolts on flange)and a few hoses and off..
Regardless, glad its running with 16 valves...
What was the end result of the re-do? adjust 1 valve and check the others and it was fine? or was there actual damage to the valve train that had to be fixed?
I know, been there DONE that.
I am gonna let him read all this tonight. I want to say thanks for caring enough to offer advice. Ive got to be pushing well over 300 HP. Be in touch soon.
the runners should clear ok. Even IF you have Bosch-III injectors that are a hair shorter...you CAN space them with extenders. The secret that many folks don;t understand is that you MUST have your injector turned the right way when you "set" the rail and snap the inj into the compressed O-ring. Turning the inj after its been set will cause the o-ring to wrinkle & tear causing a good leak. There is plently of inj stem fitted thru the o-ring, so they CAN move up/down 3 or 4 mm and still seal. So, you can space the rails up with washers if you need to and the inj will still seal.
BUT, they will not tolerate twisting inside the O-ring...leak city. If its absolutely not going to fit (cause the runners are on the wrong side as suggested) then you CAN also double the runner gasket at the top and get some space to clear the rails. Sealing runners is easy since they are NOT pressure seals...lite vacuum only.
BTW..regarding pulling valve covers off....IT IS fast and EASY if your mechanic sets the thing up right...there are a couple bolts in the brackets that are in the wrong way making it necessary to do a LOT of unnecessary work just to lift valve covers...by tuirning 1 or 2 bolts around when its assembled, that saves HOURS later.
All you have to do is turn that bolt around, nut the front side and the head is toward the valves instead of 3/8" of a bolt sticking out that DOES cause the covers to hang. Pulling the wiper motor is a 2 minutes job with tools, (1/4" drive 10mm socket with extensions and a wobbler)...passenger cover is egr pipe (2-10mm bolts on flange)and a few hoses and off..
Regardless, glad its running with 16 valves...
What was the end result of the re-do? adjust 1 valve and check the others and it was fine? or was there actual damage to the valve train that had to be fixed?
I know, been there DONE that.
Going over to let Greg read all this after the gym tonight. Wanted to say everything runs fine except for the injector leaking as mentioned. We are gonna pull the valve cover to clean up any broken oil fins. I called the shop and asked to speak to Bob Bailey. He owns the shop and is Bill's father. He offered me $200 to cover the expense of labor. I called Greg and told him just go get your cash. Greg wants $200 so I'm out nothing.
I get so bummed when I hear of half-assed work coming back to bite the guy that paid for what should have been a simple job and ends up paying twice...
Seeing a mechanic step up gives me some hope that the automotive repair industry is not totally inept, supplied by trade school grads that missed half their classes to attend parole meetings....
Glad to hear that this is near resolved.
The O-ring deal ain't big, not at all.
My advice to everyone doing inj and o-rings is to pressure test the system BEFORE bolting plenum & runners in place to see IF there IS A LEAK...so going back into the thing is not a nightmare..just 4 rail bolts and a little effort. Key on...charge the system & look, smeel for leaks. No leaks, bolt it up and fire it up. But never do more than securing the rails and fuel lines without a charged fuel system check...short cuts lead to the long way home.
Look close at the runners..they are VERY similar...but they will only fit right on one side.
Good Luck!
Are you sure you have them on right?
Here is a picture of my old set up and there was plenty of room there. Is one of the runners notched out for the injector and maybe on the wrong side?
I get so bummed when I hear of half-assed work coming back to bite the guy that paid for what should have been a simple job and ends up paying twice...
Seeing a mechanic step up gives me some hope that the automotive repair industry is not totally inept, supplied by trade school grads that missed half their classes to attend parole meetings....
Glad to hear that this is near resolved.
The O-ring deal ain't big, not at all.
My advice to everyone doing inj and o-rings is to pressure test the system BEFORE bolting plenum & runners in place to see IF there IS A LEAK...so going back into the thing is not a nightmare..just 4 rail bolts and a little effort. Key on...charge the system & look, smeel for leaks. No leaks, bolt it up and fire it up. But never do more than securing the rails and fuel lines without a charged fuel system check...short cuts lead to the long way home.
Look close at the runners..they are VERY similar...but they will only fit right on one
side.
Good Luck!
Leesvet you have been helpful on several occasions. I want to say thank you. Greg is a sharp guy and not a thief by any means. In fact over the last year plus become my friend. We went to the Barret Jackson Auction together and had a blast. Hundreds of Corvette's. I will be driving my car again by the end of the weekend. Emissions next Monday.
YW..
I just want to try to pass along some of the many many lessons that I've learned over the past 25 yrs with C4s....many were hard lessons that could have been avoided if I had been able to access a site like this.
Glad you found an honest man to do the work. Too many wanna bes out there these days and the C4 technology is like a dead sea scroll to these new kids...
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by C4in mesa
Going over to let Greg read all this after the gym tonight. Wanted to say everything runs fine except for the injector leaking as mentioned. We are gonna pull the valve cover to clean up any broken oil fins. I called the shop and asked to speak to Bob Bailey. He owns the shop and is Bill's father. He offered me $200 to cover the expense of labor. I called Greg and told him just go get your cash. Greg wants $200 so I'm out nothing.
It's not clear if you discovered the runners were reversed (mounted on the wrong side) or something else. I agree there's room to shave the inside of the runners -- assuming they're not mega-ported to hair-thin walls. Because of the [lack of] casting quality for the SLP piece, I wouldn't be surprised if a few had interference -- as you're describing.
SD (Speed Density) was in place during the 90-91 TPI model years. It avoided the need for a MAF sensor. Instead, I'm thinking it uses a MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor to figure out how much air is present at any given time. On SD cars, the MAP mounts on the PS side of the plenum. (Anyone should correct me, if I remember this wrong.)
Okay got the runner off and the o-ring was torn so that's why the puddle of gas. The notch is there for the injector but not giving nearly enough room. I'm gonna grind out a little space as well as add another gasket. By the way removing the wiper motor saved so much time THANK YOU. Valve cover came off no issues. I'm gonna post a new thread after I drive it. How the L98 runs fine no expensive tune needed with the Comp Cam 08-501-8
It's not clear if you discovered the runners were reversed (mounted on the wrong side) or something else. I agree there's room to shave the inside of the runners -- assuming they're not mega-ported to hair-thin walls. Because of the [lack of] casting quality for the SLP piece, I wouldn't be surprised if a few had interference -- as you're describing.
SD (Speed Density) was in place during the 90-91 TPI model years. It avoided the need for a MAF sensor. Instead, I'm thinking it uses a MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor to figure out how much air is present at any given time. On SD cars, the MAP mounts on the PS side of the plenum. (Anyone should correct me, if I remember this wrong.)
Yup
Here is the pass side. you can see the black MAP sensor sitting at the back of the plenum it bolts to the bolt hole right next to it on the plenum.
Hey guys I just read the title of this thread, you can't put '88 runners on a SD system
There is no port on the left side of the plenum for the small tube, unless they have been welded up.