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There has been alot of debates on this forum lately concerning the 180* vs 160* thermostat. It seems it is about 50/50 on which one to use, if the 160* is too cold or if the 180* is too hot. It seems like a logical solution would be a 170* stat, but I've yet to find anyone who makes one. Is there anyway we as a group (Corvette Forum) could contact a company about producing a 170* stat ? I'm sure between all the Corvette, Camaro and Firebird owners this business could sell thousands of the 170* thermostats.
TPIS used to make a 170* stat, but last time i checked their website, it was no longer listed. you might want to check with them to see if they have any leftovers
...I'm sure between all the Corvette, Camaro and Firebird owners this business could sell thousands of the 170* thermostats.
Why? Most Camaro/Fbird and Impala owners that mod their LT1/4 motors are running the 160 already. Nobody is having any trouble with the 160 * t-stat, why would they change to a 170?
This is the only forum I know of that still has people claiming this is a bad mod for LT1/4s.
My 160 I got from TPIS is always at 174+ on the digital readout.
I am thinking of pulling the guts out of my old one and running open
to see if that can bring it down a little more. I did this before a few years back and it worked fine.
My 160 I got from TPIS is always at 174+ on the digital readout.
The digital readout uses a temp sensor on the passenger side head. The PCM uses a different temp sensor on the H2O pump. The digital readout measures the coolant in the heads, after it's been heated by the head, not right at the t-stat.
180 F is not too hot. Most modern cars have always had 180 stats!!! My 64,69,and 74 vettes had 180 stats and fortunately also had big radiators and were able to keep the coolant at 180. Not so with the C4 because the radiator is on the small side. Over 35mph there is enough air passing through the radiator to maintain the opening temp of the thermostat, 180, but idling , the ECM turns on the main fan at 228 F which is also not too hot for your engine. Another bugaboo is low water pump delivery at idle and is the reason why I installed a Stewart pump recently which delivers 41% more coolant at idle. I now (with the correct 195 stat) show 200F at stoplights in 90 F weather with the main fan forced on by my manual switch. Most of us are wary of these coolant temps because on the older cars we have owned, you might be at the side of the road blowing steam. This doesn't happen with the C4 and you need to get used to these temperatures. My 87 has 177k and recently had to install new head gaskets and the cylinder bores look excellent and I have the orginal aluminum heads. Before the Stewart pump, I would see 210-220 at stoplights.
Tuned right most engines will make best overall power when run closer to 200 degrees. Problem is that many stock type computer programs will allow more power if run cooler (the manufacturers have their reasons for this, mainly oil and engine life), so to keep their cars in the power mode many people install low temperature thermostat.
How about this, I run NO thermostat in my Rocket. I also run the Evans NPG coolant, which is pretty amazing stuff - it allows convection cooling of a shut down engine in the pits after I make a 1/4 mile pass. Usually my starting line temperature is from 168 to 182 degrees, and at the traps it is always right at 196 degrees. Very briefly as I come to a stop at the timing tower it will nose over 205 degrees, then it starts going down.