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the Entire Engine Bay Seems To Get Too Hot To Touch Is That Normal?
Yes
Originally Posted by BBLACKHURST
1987 Convertible had overheating Issues.
You don't state what the actual engine temp is or what the " overheating " problem was?
Originally Posted by BBLACKHURST
Plus the Relay Gets Hot.
As it will if it is turned ON all the time ,
stock the fan only comes on at 228F and goes off when road speed is over 35MPH so the relay is never engaged full time
You don't state what the actual engine temp is or what the " overheating " problem was?
Engine Temps Usually RIse To 200 & Drop BackDown Until The Thermostat Closes Again With The NEw Fan.
I Guess My Problem Is That I Can't Get The Fans To Go Off AtThe Correct Time. They Run Immediately From key On And OnlyShut Off At Key off.
Relay Is Always EngageD Regardless Of Engine Temperature. A New Cooling Fan Motor Fixed The Overheating Issue. But I Had To Replace The CuT Relay Because The Po WIred A Manual Switch In.
Have you verified the correct relay wiring ?
ECM completes ground path for relay coil. If that wire is permanently grounded, the fan will always run. PO may have grounded it.
Use a meter and check if the green/white stripe wire at relay has continuity with ground. (key off)
[QUOTE=AGENT 86;1583970284]Have you verified the correct relay wiring ?
I Did continuity Checks Before I WIred It To Be Sure. One Red Wire Goes To battery The Other To ThE Fan. A Blue WIre To Ecm And A Green WIre To A Temperature Switch? IN the Drivers SideHead Which is Always Grounded.
ECM completes ground path for relay coil. If that wire is permanently grounded, the fan will always run. PO may have grounded it.
Use a meter and check if the green/white stripe wire at relay has continuity with ground. (key off)
I Did continuity Checks Before I WIred It To Be Sure. One Red Wire Goes To battery The Other To ThE Fan. A Blue WIre To Ecm And A Green WIre To A Temperature Switch? IN the Drivers SideHead Which is Always Grounded.
Blue wire goes to fan fuse, ignition controlled. The temp switch in head is for the front booster fan.
the primary fan is stuck on. from what I can see it seems like somehow i have the relays mixed up, but im not sure how because the red wire off the relay by the battery has continuity to the primary cooling fan. But it also has a green wire from a sensor in the driver side head. which would mean it should run the auxilary fan. The blue wire comes from the fuse box, that i can believe since there was no fuse in it and once i put one in the relay energized and the fan started running. So at this point I am completely lost.
Another thing, the sensor in the head completes the circuit regardless if its plugged in or not. im not sure if this is normal. before now the previous owner had a manual switch wired in where the relay was because the relay melted and it blew a fuse. Since the motor was going bad it drew more power and caused the blown fuse and relay. i replaced the motor and it runs 100x better than the old one.
Last edited by BBLACKHURST; May 23, 2013 at 05:41 PM.
The sensor in the driver's side head turns on the auxiliary fan in front of the radiator, as shown in Agent 86's diagram. That's done by the "AUXILIARY COOLING FAN TEMPERATURE SWITCH" with the green wire. You can unplug the wire at the switch to find out how that affects your situation.
The fan behind the radiator is turned on by the ECM (Electronic Control Module). The ECM turns on the fan when the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) in the front of the intake manifold tells the ECM that the coolant temperature is over 228°. If the connection from the ECM to the CTS is causing the fan to come on you can unplug the CTS, which will simulate very cold coolant, which should shut off the fan.
The ECM will also turn on the main fan if the A/C is running. You can remove that input as a cause by disconnecting the A/C pressure switch. It's located just above the frame on the passenger side. There are two switches there. The other switch controls the A/C compressor clutch. You can disconnect both of them for a test.
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