New weather-stripping torn !
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 132
Likes: 11
From: East Central Iowa
New weather-stripping torn !
Last fall just before I put it away I replaced the weather-stripping in the hatch area of my 96. When I pulled it out this spring I see that the 2 front lower corners have both torn - what did I do wrong ? Fit seemed fine last fall. Does it need to be able to "move" slightly ? Is that why they use a grease ? I didn't add to what seemed to be there from the original and in fact I removed some of the excess.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
silicone grease on surface which touches window
Could have been the quality/brand of the rubber seal, however, the advice to apply silicone grease to the glass side of the rubber seal is important.
Otherwise the glass grips the rubber seal (especially in the front lower corner) and can stretch or worse, rip it or separate the heat/glue seal of that corner....
I did mine (likely purchased from Eckler's) on the 94 about eight years ago and the liberal grease I applied in that front lower corner has remained and thankfully no problems (with at least weekly open/close of the glass.
Also, consider your replacement vendor/brand carefully, there are cheap brands which are known to leak or rip, so do some research and study the ones available (e.g. go to Corvettes at Carlisle this year in PA).
Otherwise the glass grips the rubber seal (especially in the front lower corner) and can stretch or worse, rip it or separate the heat/glue seal of that corner....
I did mine (likely purchased from Eckler's) on the 94 about eight years ago and the liberal grease I applied in that front lower corner has remained and thankfully no problems (with at least weekly open/close of the glass.
Also, consider your replacement vendor/brand carefully, there are cheap brands which are known to leak or rip, so do some research and study the ones available (e.g. go to Corvettes at Carlisle this year in PA).
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
The lower front corners are actually cemented/glued together after the weatherstrip is "miter cut" to form the corners. Just any cement won't work. I'd maybe contact the vendor for a suggestion, the OE separate also after a few years.
Marc Haibeck, zr1specialist.com used to offer the "re-cementing" as a service in shop but I don't see it mentioned any longer on his web-site. I believe it was a GE product but I don't recall which. I'd make the calls first rather than just using most of the over-the-counter adhesives that are available. If it comes to mind I'll post back!
Marc Haibeck, zr1specialist.com used to offer the "re-cementing" as a service in shop but I don't see it mentioned any longer on his web-site. I believe it was a GE product but I don't recall which. I'd make the calls first rather than just using most of the over-the-counter adhesives that are available. If it comes to mind I'll post back!
Pro
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 677
Likes: 3
From: Metairie LA
I heard from my vendor to use thick CA glue (super glue). I had some around that is used on RC car tires. Worked like a champ.
Wilcox replaced my first one after it parted at the joint (couple of months old). The rep told me about the CA Glue in case it happened again (it did).
Wilcox replaced my first one after it parted at the joint (couple of months old). The rep told me about the CA Glue in case it happened again (it did).
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
I heard from my vendor to use thick CA glue (super glue). I had some around that is used on RC car tires. Worked like a champ.
Wilcox replaced my first one after it parted at the joint (couple of months old). The rep told me about the CA Glue in case it happened again (it did).
Wilcox replaced my first one after it parted at the joint (couple of months old). The rep told me about the CA Glue in case it happened again (it did).
repaired the hatch WS on my 90 with CA held up just fine. BTW, it is available in BLACK -
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
I have a write up on that hatch area in which it was suggested to use about 6" of WS adhesive each way from the corners to miminize chance of separation in those corners.
He mentions that WS adhesive is a contact cement so apply thin layer to both surfaces, after it "tacks" apply another wet coat to one surface to allow slight adjustment before the glue sets up.
Soon as air temps rise here I'll be doing my hatch and will use the "glue" method suggested.
And too I plan to use liberal amounts of WS silicone grease along those corner seals, with light application along the majority of the WS.
He mentions that WS adhesive is a contact cement so apply thin layer to both surfaces, after it "tacks" apply another wet coat to one surface to allow slight adjustment before the glue sets up.
Soon as air temps rise here I'll be doing my hatch and will use the "glue" method suggested.
And too I plan to use liberal amounts of WS silicone grease along those corner seals, with light application along the majority of the WS.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 3
From: Encino CA
Back when I had my 95 the standard hatch weatherstrip that came with the car lasted for quite some time. Finally after many years it started splitting at the obvious spot so I bought the replacement from Wilcox. It lasted maybe for a couple of months before splitting at the corners. Since I was selling the car anyway I did not bother replacing again but my guess is that if you could get OEM it would be better than aftermarket.
Doug
Doug
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