A big hello to all members:
I need some idea's and help.

Just a quick background. My original objectives were to stop( minimize) the oil leaks and now it's escalating. I just finished replacing all the front cover seals, timing chain and water pump sprocket. I modified the Gen I opti to support the vented setup.

I made an attempt to replace the oil pan gasket but since this is a stroker the engine needs to be lifted despite turning the crank, so I decided to leave this as a phase II project if it leaks. As a result of this attempt, I noticed one of cam lobes did not have a polished surface on it. The ramp side seems to have flat build up metal on it.

So now I need to investigate this issue. I'm planning to clean & reseal the intake so It's a good time to dig into this issue.

Any ideas as to what would cause the ramp up side of the lobe to have flat metal build-up on it? Granted the lifter rollers are what's making contact with the lobes but what causes this?

Bad geometric valve train? Bent rod? Improper rocker alignment,
failed lifter? improper lash? improper lubricant on lifters?

The top end contents: 1.6 (compcam) roller rockers, molly rods, mild Crane cam (higher duration than stock), port and polished heads, brass seals, 3/8 studs, higher tension double springs, over sized valves.

Bottom end: LT1 396 Stroker.

thx
Hank

 

once you get the intake off, pulling the lifters will reveal all.

Unfortunately failure of hydraulic roller cam lobes is not that uncommon. Flat tappet lifters, hydraulic or mechanical, spread the lifter load over the entire cam lobe surface; the hydraulic roller concentrates that load in a much narrower band on the lifter lobe face.
The hydraulic roller is very hard metal while the hardening on the cam lobe face is only a few thousandths thick and increased spring tension, high mileage and high rpm all contribute to cam lobe wear.

 

Guys
How can I raise the engine w/o an engine lift? Is it safe to raise it via the oil pan? if not then how?

Will I have enough clearance to remove the cam once the engine is raised?

I want to be prepared should I have to replace the cam.

thx
Hank

 

I did a cam swap in my 96 with the engine in the car. I raised the engine with a large block of wood under the oil pan which was long enough to also engage the bottom of the bellhousing. once up an inch or so I placed two 1" pieces of wood between the bottom of the motor mounts and the chassis pads they normally set on and lowered the engine back onto them and removed the jack and wooden block. This gave me a bit more room to drop the oil pan. Be careful and don't jack the engine too high as the back of the engine will crush into the firewall.

***note: some people pull the pan without lifting the engine, just rotating the crank so the pan clears the first crank throw and rods****

pulling the pan is pretty much required because when the timing chain cover is pulled, it tends to disturb the one piece oil pan gasket.

p.s. on my engine three cam lobes were gone, completely, and other's were beginning to go but the engine still ran strong.

 

Thanks a million mtwoolford. Now I have a game plan.

 

I checked all the rockers for proper lift and they all checked out ok. I was thrilled until.... I visually checked the # 1 cylinder lobe... sure enough I can see some pitting damage on the top peak of the lobe. Arhh..
As a result, I'm planning on replacing the existing cam with the same one (CraneCam 210/224) so I can use the same length pushrods.

Question: Is there a way to determine the brand of Hydr rollers I'm using? Once again in the name of using the same pushrods.

thank you

 

I have a good stock 93 cam & new thrust plate for sale for cheap.

PM if interested.

 

Never mind. I found it.. thx