I know the first thing your going to say is the pivot ball backed out. It did not. I loc tited it in there 6 year ago still holding strong it place. Yes I checked. The car is torn apart. It's a 96 with a fidanza flywheel. I originally had an issue where the clutch wouldn't disengage. Change the slave and the master with no change. So I torn it down to find my friction disk hub in more pieces then it should have been. So I get a new clutch. Replace the steel insert on my flywheel so everything is 100%. Put it all together. Damn fork is rubbing. It's all the right parts. Nothing looks out of place. What gives?????

 

Bell housing shims are both in tact and being used.

 

all I can suggest is support the rear of the engine, pull the trans, insert a dummy input shaft to hold the clutch disc in place, ask some one to operate the clutch and see whats up. I've got a 96 also and I made sure EVERYTHING worked before I put that b**ch of a tranny and c beam back in.

 

Brother do I feel your pain. I'm about to go in for the third time. First time, could not start because of this issue, though many thought it was starter, power, ground related. I believed it to be the cheap iron flywheel I purchased. When I looked at the fork and pivot the first time, it didn't appear to be backed out, although the backing plate had snapped inside the stud. Second time, with the addition of a new master and slave, also found the stud was really loose, so it had backed out, but not by much. So I got a new backing plate, and tightened everything up. With a soft clutch, not fully bled, it started but still hit the plate. The stud has grooves, but it looked like when the stud went in, they were no longer on the contact points of the fork.

So, I found a used stud and fork from a Forum Vendor. They are in good shape, much better than what I have. These must fix the issue as there is nothing left to replace. The thought seems to be that if the stud got worn, then the fork is probably tweaked as well. But I do have a grinder if it comes down to a couple of mm's.

The set up I have is the Spec SP05s and the Carolina clutch Stage II kit. Absolutely no reason for these not to fit. So it must be the hydraulic parts. Double check the stud and fork for wear. Jim Jandik, or Bill Borbreaux are great sources and resources.

 

Mine still doesn't feel to be fully disengaging. I think it may be a bent fork but can't find a used one.

 

Jim Jandik at "Powertorquesystems.com" has NOS ones available. I got a used pivot stud and fork from Shawn Martin at "Corvettenutz", he's a forum vendor. Going back into mine this morning, hopefully up and running by end of day.

 

I also run an aluminum FW from Fidanza; this may be a silly question, but hopefully the FW was machined properly for a y-body; mine originally was for a f-body (requiring about .090" I think being shaved) however, as I think about it, the car would not even start....it was binding up before we discovered what the issue was...

good luck...keep us posted.

 

I've had the flywheel on the car for over 5 years. The steel insert was replaced during this clutch replacement.

 

Bump

 

I have seen the ball stud area tear on the fork, which will move it farther, and the tab that holds the fork into position on the stud allow the fork to move out of position.

I relieved the back of the fork on the grinder when I had mine out because it was just to close for my taste.. of course I pulled it a few months later and picked up the TKO

 

I think I'm just going to order a new stud and fork tomorrow morning.

 

Fork and stud solved my issue.

 

So apparently power torque systems don't like to answer their phone. Or sell their products directly from their website. This is not making me happy. I kinda need my car back on the road.

 

call vette2vette

 

Try again, Jim Jandik is definitely someone you want to talk to. He's very knowledgeable and wants to help people. He doesn't do online sales because he likes to make sure people get what they need himself.

Also try Bill bourdreaux at ZFdoc.

The clutch fork shouldn't be an issue to get, but the pivot stud may take a little chasing.

 

I finally got ahold of him. He sold me his last pivot. Thank god. He is a great person to do business with!

 

Last Stud, wow, the ZF parts will slowly dwindle away..

I am glad I made the swap already

 

I have seen if the disc is too thick, the fork will overtravel and hit the pressure plate. I ran into that with a local rebuilder. You can use a thicker disc like SPEC does, but they machine the pressure plate to compensate. It will only hit the pressure plate the last 30% of pedal travel if the disc is too thick. If the fork hits the pressure plate all the time, it's a stud problem.

 

I reckon when the time comes for the rest of us with bent forks and worn out piviot *****.... We will be converting to a push style clutch assembly and hyd throw out brg like the kit RAM sells.
Will

 

He said he is going to start reproducing them. The clutch kit in my car is a stage 2 from Carolina clutch.