Originally Posted by Impala Balko

I wrote them... when I ordered them they said it can be done with hand tools an I assumed it would be in the directions however I do not see it in there

Originally Posted by pkincy

Maybe his hand tools but not the average "shade tree" mechanics kit.

My 93 was to low for the crappy roads in San Diego so I had to bring the car up a bit. (One 360 deg turn of the bottom perch raised the car 0.5 inch).

The car was so darned low (25.5 inch to top of wheel arch) that I had a devil of a time even getting my low profile jack under the car. Once that was done and the car up and the wheel off, all that is needed is to rotate the bottom perch up 360 degrees. First loosen the allen screw that holds the perch in place and than rotate the perch. If you can figure out how to do that without a spanner using other "hand tools" let me know.

Actually I used a large oil filter wrench that I have. But most people won't have this size open jaw wrench in their kit.

Originally Posted by pkincy

That was not the case on my fronts. I think it would have been if I had undone the sway bar links, but I didn't. So even in full droop the spring was compressed.

I haven't adjusted the rears yet, so won't comment on that end.

Originally Posted by Boxcar

To adjust your ride height you don't need any expensive tools. Simply jack the car up, to relaxing the spring. Now you can reach in and turn the collar by hand, after loosening the lock down screw. Use a marker to mark the collar and the base of the spring. Now you can A. adjust the collar up and down, and B. rotate the spring if you pick up a rub. The marks are of course used a reference points.

I picked up a slight rub while tracking (driving hard) on the left rear coil to the drive line. Using this method I was able to rotate the coil until there was no rubbing. Continued to track for the rest of weekend.

Originally Posted by 383vett

Every coilover I have ever played with required a spanner wrench or some other device to turn the adjustment collar, even with the shock fully extended because the spring is still compressed. In fact, a spring compressor is needed to install the spring over the shock and thread the collar (done this many times). I'm not sure how you could adjust the height of a car by turning the collar with your hand.

Originally Posted by Boxcar

Hey Guy,
Here is the deal in no particular order.
1. You will need to move the top of your rear shock forward go a good 5/8 to 3/4. I did the half inch and still had rubbing of the coil on the drive line. There are fancy plates you can buy. I just took the factory mount plate to a welding shop. Had them duplicate the plate and move the shock hole forward. See pic. That was the greatest challenge, getting rid of the rubbing. The best part is you keep the factory anchor nuts. Go to my post at http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...k-install.html or search coilover and look for coilover shock install. Cost $20.00

2. You don’t need a spanner wrench, simply lift the car to release the weight and turn the collar by hand. I turned mine all the way down leaving one thread below the collar. I did this before I stalled them on the car. Final ride height 26.5 front, 27.25 rear (17’s front, 18’s rear). Be sure to lock them in with the set screw.

3. When installing the sway bar be sure to grease the bar and the rubber boot both inside and outside (this will result in no squeaky suspension), you want the bar to rotate easily. Install the bar and rotate it upward out of the way. Once you have your coil over on and ride height adjusted, you can adjust the HEIM links. the steps are:
a. Set the car down with full weight on the suspension. Place dead weight in the driver's seat equal to your weight. Rotate your sway bar down to a point that you have good clearance from the coil. With the HEIM installed on the A-arm, make your adjustment so that both links easily mount the sway. Tighten in place and you’re done. Repeat for the rear. No need to relocate the front sway bar.

4. You will find it easy to remove the bushings from the A-arm if you use a socket, long threaded bolt, and nut. Place a very large socket on the outside of the A-arm, run the bolt though the A-arm, small socket and place the nut on that end. Now turn the bolt drawing the socket through the opening and removing the bushing. See Pic

5. To remove the front leaf-spring get a saw-all (reciprocating saw) place a good sharp blade in it and cut. I cut both ends and it came right out. Be sure to have all the tension you can off the spring. I had my car on jack stands with the Lower A-arm disconnected...no issues.

6. One last thing, you will need to remove both rear control arms bolts and reverse them. Be sure to have a good grinder. Place the bolt and washer in a vise and grind as a unit. I did it this way and it work out great. The reason is the washer is ground at the same angle as the bolt. I ground both top and bottom bolts.

If you want more pictures, PM me, and I'll email you lots of helpful hints.

Bottom line, I track my C4 and love the coil over set up as describe to just now. I going a step further and installing bump steers to help with the corning and losing toe in diffraction.

GLWInstall