When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My dad and I were working on putting the heads back on my '88 after a gasket job and we stripped 8 of the bolt holes. The bolts are fine, the holes are...not in good shape. So I wanted to look into a helicoil sort of kit to tap the holes out and get them fixed. Anyone got the size specs on the bolts?
My dad and I were working on putting the heads back on my '88 after a gasket job and we stripped 8 of the bolt holes. The bolts are fine, the holes are...not in good shape. So I wanted to look into a helicoil sort of kit to tap the holes out and get them fixed. Anyone got the size specs on the bolts?
It's a little late (way late) now but those threaded holes should have been cleaned and "chased" while you were prepping. You could use a thread "chaser" not a tap and see if you could save them, if you just destroyed say the first two threads it might be worth the effort.
You're attempting the heli-coil repair yourself? Look into "timesert" and ask the advice of an automotive machine shop before you make maybe your situation much worse.
We haven't really decided what we're going to do to fix it. I'm a fairly broke college student and the car's mine so any fix should reasonably come from my pocket so I'm trying not to spend a lot. The threads are pretty obliterated. Realistically, we're probably going to need to take the heads back off to make sure it's clean. Now that I have the thread specs I can look up time-sert and helicoil prices.
Cliff - He asked "intake" ? INTAKE to CYLINDER HEAD3/8 - 16 and I believe are maybe torx. 3/8-16 I believe is consistent through end of production LT1/4 builds.
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Depending on how much thread root is left in each hole, an other option would be to tap the existing holes to 10mm which is only about .020" larger than a 3/8" bolt and buy some new metric 10mm flange head bolts. This should give you enough bite with the bolt to torque it down properly. Done this a few times in the past. If all existing threads are visibly gone, then an insert would be needed.
Cliff - He asked "intake" ? INTAKE to CYLINDER HEAD3/8 - 16 and I believe are maybe torx. 3/8-16 I believe is consistent through end of production LT1/4 builds.
Depending on how much thread root is left in each hole, an other option would be to tap the existing holes to 10mm which is only about .020" larger than a 3/8" bolt and buy some new metric 10mm flange head bolts. This should give you enough bite with the bolt to torque it down properly. Done this a few times in the past. If all existing threads are visibly gone, then an insert would be needed.
That certainly is a "possible" option but I would think not a preferred one. I guess you would need to use 12 point flange head hardware because of lack of access for a standard hex. I believe that even the 3/8 originals were torx "pan-head" for that very reason. You would need I guess an M10 12 point first to check against an intake.
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Metric Socket head/Allen head cap screws with a flange head are also available thru McMasters Carr if bolt head access using a box wrench is a problem on the manifold.
Metric Socket head/Allen head cap screws with a flange head are also available thru McMasters Carr if bolt head access using a box wrench is a problem on the manifold.
By the time the mail order/Internet order arrive, the drill bit to open the manifold purchased, the M10 tap (needs to be bottoming) purchased and the likely hood of a failure on probably one or more anyway the real/right thing to do is just do the "timeserts" and be done with it. The job won't come back to haunt you, the OP mentions removing the heads again anyway.
Besides the M10 isn't a quality repair, it's "rigged"! Attempting anything other than the correct fix could likely end up deeper into the OP's pocket.
Cliff - He asked "intake" ? INTAKE to CYLINDER HEAD3/8 - 16 and I believe are maybe torx. 3/8-16 I believe is consistent through end of production LT1/4 builds.
Plenum hardware is M8
Wow. That's interesting. I thought everything had been switched to metric by this year.
I did look in my notes and all I saw were the plenum bolts, so that's why I thought M8.
Do the job right the first time. The heads do not have to come off. Use plenty of grease on the drill bit and go very slow. Same thing with the tap. Take your time and do all 12 of the bolt holes.
Every bolt hole on my superram has been helicoiled minus the 64 bolts which hold the top cover onto the plenum. I have never used time serts but I have always heard great things about them. Also, you do not have to deal with that "Tang" at the bottom which could cause you trouble regarding where it falls when you break it off.