C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

brake question

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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 08:56 PM
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I just replaced my brake booster due to an internal vacuum leak, I also have a new master cylinder and Hawk pads all the way around. There is no air in the lines but my pedal goes too far down before it will do any braking. I remember something about adjusting the length of the booster rod that goes into the master cylinder. What exactly is the procedure for this? I can't find anything in the search but it seems I remember something that had to be done just so.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 09:41 PM
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IME the only adjustment is washers on the studs. SOP is reuse the same washers if any are present.

I know you bled the brakes but you have to admit that the description still sounds like air in the line. Can you wedge a squeegee or similar between the seat and the brake pedal to hold it down over night and let the pedal up in the morning? (power seat will make it easy) Better results if the bore of the master is level prolly put the rear wheels on some boards will do the trick.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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I seriously doubt the presence of air. The pedal goes to the same point every time, it will not pump up and the brakes are good but I feel they could be better. I usually change out my fluid every 2 years and I do it with a Mityvac and I have never had air. I do appreciate your response though.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
I remember something about adjusting the length of the booster rod that goes into the master cylinder.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1546782108-post4.html
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 12:59 AM
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Thank You! I knew I had read something about that but I couldn't find it.
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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Thanks vetteoz, that adjustment brought the pedal up where it is supposed to be.
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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how much did you adjust? It sounds a lot like mine...maybe an inch or two of pedal travel before anything happens at all...

Was this what yours was like?

Thanks,

Mike
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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That's exactly what mine was like. I adjusted the screw out approximately 1/8 to 3/16 inch. The screw itself is an 8mm and there is a knurled collar it screws in to. You have to hold that collar while turning the screw out, I used needle nose pliers because it is kinda close in there. But like 94z07fx3 suggested, be sure you don't have air in your lines first.
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 12:18 AM
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Fwiw....What Booster Did You Buy? Mine Is A Metal One ThaT I Ordered From Pirate Jack....

Thanks

Mike
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 01:46 AM
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plastic reman
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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Update...

Adjusted the plunger by about 1/2" and the free play amount at the pedal is down to under an inch...which is better than the 2-3 that I had before.

Not hard to do and definately worth it...No wonder the car didnt stop for ****. Installed a DRM bias spring too so I should be set if this thing ever runs again.

Thanks for your help.

Mike
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 11:51 PM
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Thank vetteoz, he made it possible for both of us to fix our problem.
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 09:47 AM
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My situation is a bit strange. The free play height keeps changing. Stays at one level for a while, while I drive, then might be a larger distance after a few stops and then go back to a normal free play length. Was like this before new pads and rotor and then the same after changing and bleeding system. Does not feel spongy as if air were trapped
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 07:03 PM
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Midnight85 - Are the hawk pads worth it on stock 85 calipers?
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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I think they are, I do know they sure don't put out all that black dust the stock ones did. Just be sure & follow the "bedding" procedure outlined on the box. They definitely work better when they are a bit warm so I just make sure to be careful the first few stops of the day.
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 03:59 AM
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I went to Raybestos ceramic pads all around. Cut way down on the dust.
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