Just to give you an idea of how much material needs to be removed, here are some pictures of mine when Will "rklessdriver" built my motor.

This is the block the way it came back from the machine shop.


This is the block assembled. 6in rods 385 mine is a 040 bore.


This is a picture of Will installing cam bearings. But you can see where the block was machined for clearance. BTW they used a machine to clearance and not a hand grinder.


Hope you get this straightened out without a lot of expense.

 

I agree. It needs to be "I'll pay at the rate you produce".

Jim G

 

Just a thought are not the shops in your location required by law to be insured and Bonded to recieve a license from either the state or County or City? I know I am required to have both in Washington state. And my buddy in California is required to carry both also by Law. So just attach his Bond and be done with him once and for all. Just my 2 cents. I hate people abusing our trust in them. Sorry my Brother

 

if you are truly stuck using this block, would consider nickel rod and welding the thin spots.

not sure this is what you want to hear.

this would be a more permanent fix.

good welder would be able to fix that right up.

would trust that more than putty.

just an idea for you to consider

 

If you really are stuck using this block, I agree with the welding versus puttying! Still not a good solution though; literally "a patch job",

Jim G

 

You could have the block sleeved.

 

Just to make crystal clear what the shop appears to have done here: The shop made a stupid error, doing the clearancing by hand, and punched through to the water jacket. Then, instead of doing the right thing, they did TWO wrong things: they did not disclose the error to the car owner (he found it by accident), and they expected HIM to suffer the consequences: a potentially unreliable engine on which he has spent $$$$. Then, even when confronted with the error, and its actual and potential impacts on the owner, they STILL refused to do the right thing, suggesting a literal "patch job"? I see this as evidence of really, really poor character in the shop owner, and someone not to be trusted.

Jim G

 

i totally understand all the above jim

if the shop doesn't step up, and owner can't afford a new block, a patch job might be the only alternative.

if this has to go to court, it might be cheaper to fix what he has and get the car running.

not saying its right. some time right a wrong don't enter into what cards we are dealt.

 

Jim,
Once again you are absolutely right. I went in this morning and had another heater discussion with the owner of this shop. Then I went over all the parts that they ordered. ( I ordered the majority myself) It turns out the guy responsible for the work on my car is the moron making the mistakes. I got all the numbers off the parts they ordered and double checked everything at home. It turns out the idiot ordered a centerforce clutch that is only rated for 500 ft/lbs at the crank. (DF03900) and he ordered a aluminum flywheel that cost me 400.00. Obviously this isnt going to work considering the car should be up in the 700+ chp/torque range. I am at a damn loss for words and totally stressed out. I just want my car home. I am going to seek legal advice . I have all my text messages saved and I took plenty of pictures with the owner holding the flashlight in the freeze plug hole for me so you could see the light threw the holes they made...Also a few of you have mentioned using a die grinder. It definitely looks that way but in reality they used a mill with some cheap bit in it. You would think they would have better skills that that.

Anyway this is a lesson learned for me and I hope these guys dont get to do this to someone else. I will be contacting the better business bureau along with my attorney. thanks for all the replies guys!

 

Smooth1990: The blessing here is that you discovered the grinding problem AND the too-weak clutch BEFORE this shop assembled erverything and it could get a chance to blow up on you ON THE ROAD, WHERE THE DAMAGE DONE FINANCIALLY WOULD BE MUCH GREATER.

I'd call this a costly, but nevertheless wonderful "save".

Jim G

 

Absulutely. Its sad because I really thought this shop knew their stuff. Wow is all I can say.

 

Sleeves can't go down that far.

As for the other options mentioned here... Welding cast iron, espc a BIG complex casting like an engine block or cyl head is very specalized work. To do it right, it cost alot of $$$. The only place I have ever trusted do that kind of work for me was Windy City Engineering... like I said it was very expensive and I only spent the $$$ considering the value of a few very rare sets of # matching Ford SCJ cyl heads and one windowed Boss 429 block....

That repair cost does not compute considering the value of a replacement GENII LTX block.

Considering the cost of machine work to bore, hone, line hone, deck and assemble a short block - I wouldn't trust Joe Blow the local welder to braze it up or lay a bead of nickle rod on it and then have it crack as soon as the block gets up to operating temp and leak coolant into the oil....

No way in hell you should be stuck with this f'd up block. A replacement GEN II LTX should be fairly easy to find. I buy them all the time for $75-$150. It'll most likely be a 2 bolt main (F or B Body) but 4 bolt caps are easy to install for a competent machine shop.
Will

 

Unfortunately, the OP has already paid them to do a lot of work to the now fatally flawed block he originally gave them to work on. THAT is the money he is grieving the loss of. The raw block is, as you point out, inexpensive.

Jim G

 

Never heard that before........sealed power makes "cut to length" cylinder sleeves that are 10.250" long.............



Edit: After looking close at the photos, I see that the hole is not in the cylinder wall, so I sleeve won't fix it.

 

Ok well Tonight was yet another night of suprises and arguements with these yahoos at this shop. I made the owner email me a invoice of the projected costs for putting the engine together with the Sealer that they wanted to use, bolting it in the car, and tunning it. As you can see he is trying to charge me for the sealer and a damn oil cooler that is needed because of their mess up, I am including a copy of the invoice bellow in this post so everyone can see what it is i am exactly dealing with here. Read carfefully because this guy is crazy.

Also, While I was at the shop the last time today I saw that they ordered cat back magna flow exhaust when I already have American Racing headers with the X-pipe which connects to any axle back exhaust.They have ordered the majority off all the parts wrong. I believe the only parts that are correct are the ones I ordered! I am going to get all of my stuff and my money back first thing in the morning. I am actually staying up until 7:30 am so I can be there with the truck and trailer when the doors open at 8 Am.


Eagle forged rotating assembly $1800.00
Centerforce Clutch 700.00
Canton Oil pan 370.00
Oil Pump $ 44.00
Oil pump drive $ 25.00
Cat Back Exhaust $ 800.00
Flywheel $ 390.00
Shipping $ 150.00
Procharger Repair $ 450.00
Intake Gaskets $ 24.00
Timing Chain set $ 120.00
A/C Delete Kit $ 150.00
Comp Cam $ 300.00
Severe duty pushrods $ 150.00
ARP Main Studs $ 120.00
ARP Head Studs $ 200.00
Head Gaskets $ 160.00
Bore and Hone $ 140.00
Line Bore $ 135.00
Clean Block $ 55.00
Deck Block $ 105.00
R&I Engine with Blower $ 1000.00

Assemble engine and blueprint, $ 1600.00
Clearance block

Port match intake & exhaust $ 250.00

Balance rotating assy & weld up crank $ 375.00
Finish polish crank to size $ 100.00
Water Pump $ 150.00
Fuel Injectors $ 400.00
Brake Clean $ 25.00
Oil Royal purple break in and regular oil $ 100.00
Coolant $ 35.00
Oil Cooler $ 160.00
Block Sealer and hardblock $ 125.00
Spark Plugs $ 36.00
Fuel Filter $ 15.00
Install Exhaust (approximate) $ 550.00
Dyno Tuning (approximate) $1200.00-1400.00

Total (without extras) approximate $ 12700.00 – $13000.00

Extras

Meth Injection Basic kit $ 650.00
Programmable kit (PWM nozzles) Add $ 400.00
Install Meth basic kit $ 350.00
Install programmable kit & Program Add $ 350.00

Cut Outs with turn downs $260.00 ea $ 520.00
Install Cutouts and wire $250.00



Do you guys know anyone who charges 1,600 to assemble a engine or tighten some exhaust clamps up for 550? or how bout 1800 for an internally balanced rotating assembly and then add 375 for balancing it.

 

IMO the bottom line is, you have lost trust in this shop doing the job correctly, (and I don't blame you.) As you are doing, cut your losses and find someone else to do it. But be warned, it is going to be tough to find someone to take over after the car is apart, and its probably going to cost you more. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
BTW, is the car so it can be rolled around? Are you bringing help to push it into the trailer? Are you prepared to load the block etc.? This shop may be less then helpful assisting you.

 

I am going to do the work on my car as I should have in the first place. I am not to concerned with that and its going to save me a ton of money. I have an enclosed trailer and 2 friends coming with me in the morning to load everything up. The car does have its wheels on it and My enclosed trailer has a nice low beaver tail so I dont think getting it in there will be a problem. I just wish the last 4 months were not wasted on this. Thankfully I found this out before they assembled the engine and tried to charge me those crazy prices. My initial estimate was 5,000.00 and thats before I spent 8,000 in parts that I ordered that are not included in the list above.

 

Let us know what happens.

 

Well hopefully things will get back on track and you will be able to enjoy the car again. I was fortunate to have Will as my friend. I pulled and installed the motor, disassembled the old, It blew up. But Will had friends do the machine work to my new, old block. They decked it, bored it, installed splayed main caps, align bored it, and balanced the rotating assy. Will then inspected everything, and did the assembly of the motor.
Its just a shame to see someone getting took like they tried to take you.
Again, good luck and keep us posted on how it turns out.

 

Also contact your Better Business Bureau