C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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Hello everyone,

I hate to keep bugging everyone,but I'm kind of slow with this stuff.I'm trying to find TDC before pulling my distributor as I'm in the process of removing the heads on my '87 'vette. I did a search and there are varying techniques so I'm a little confused. I have the plugs out,I've turned the engine with my finger in/over the NO.1 spark plug hole until I felt pressure,and the rotor is pointing towards the no.1 cylinder,but the marks are not lined up at 6 degrees. Should I feel pressure only on the compression stroke,and do the marks have to be aligned? Thanks in advance.

tankman
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 04:41 PM
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The finger over the spark plug hole is to get you in the ballpark; the only thing feeling compression tells you is that that particular cylinder is, or just was, on the compression stroke. There is no guarantee that it will stop at TDC; so after you remove your finger from the number one spark plug hole, look at the balancer timing mark and pointer on the timing chain cover and manually turn the engine over till the marks line up where you want them.

but for stabbing the distributor "close enough is good enough" since the final timing is done with a timing light while the engine is running.

any particular reason you're looking to set it at exactly 6 degrees ?
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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When you feel pressure in cylinder #1 with your finger or thumb over the hole....you know that you are on the compression stroke. Now turn the crank slowly until the timing mark lines up with zero "0" and stop. Leave it there and pull the cap off your distributor and note where the rotor is pointing. I usually tape some paper to the windshield and draw a circle to represent the distributor and then a line to indicate where the rotor is located.

When you drop the distributor back in, you will have to turn it back a little because the rotor will move as you pull it out of the block. You might have to try this a couple of times to get it where you want it by rotating the the shaft.

You are doing this (aligning #1 on the compression stroke) so it will be easier to drop the distributor back in to where it was and to be at the "start" to adjusting the valves.

-John
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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Just watch the intake valve come up, go down, and bring the balancer to zero on the timing tab. Done. Standing in front of the motor you turn it clockwise.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
The finger over the spark plug hole is to get you in the ballpark; the only thing feeling compression tells you is that that particular cylinder is, or just was, on the compression stroke. There is no guarantee that it will stop at TDC; so after you remove your finger from the number one spark plug hole, look at the balancer timing mark and pointer on the timing chain cover and manually turn the engine over till the marks line up where you want them.

but for stabbing the distributor "close enough is good enough" since the final timing is done with a timing light while the engine is running.

any particular reason you're looking to set it at exactly 6 degrees ?
That was one of the techniques that was explained while I conducted a search.Thanks for responding.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
When you feel pressure in cylinder #1 with your finger or thumb over the hole....you know that you are on the compression stroke. Now turn the crank slowly until the timing mark lines up with zero "0" and stop. Leave it there and pull the cap off your distributor and note where the rotor is pointing. I usually tape some paper to the windshield and draw a circle to represent the distributor and then a line to indicate where the rotor is located.

When you drop the distributor back in, you will have to turn it back a little because the rotor will move as you pull it out of the block. You might have to try this a couple of times to get it where you want it by rotating the the shaft.

You are doing this (aligning #1 on the compression stroke) so it will be easier to drop the distributor back in to where it was and to be at the "start" to adjusting the valves.

-John
Hello John,Thank you very much.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
Just watch the intake valve come up, go down, and bring the balancer to zero on the timing tab. Done. Standing in front of the motor you turn it clockwise.
This is so interesting. Thank you mrWillys. I'm going to experiment with a couple of different techniques.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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Just make sure it is back to zero on the compression stroke when you reassemble to avoid getting the oil pump key off. Also note how the rotor moves as it comes up and the distributor gear twists out of the cam gear.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:26 PM
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When the distributor is going back sometimes it will not drop into place with the rotor pointed in the same place. this happens because the oil pump drive has a slot that lines up with the bottom of the dizzy. I take a long screw driver ans turn the oil pump shaft where it will line up. GL
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
Just make sure it is back to zero on the compression stroke when you reassemble to avoid getting the oil pump key off. Also note how the rotor moves as it comes up and the distributor gear twists out of the cam gear.
Thank you very much.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ch@0s
When the distributor is going back sometimes it will not drop into place with the rotor pointed in the same place. this happens because the oil pump drive has a slot that lines up with the bottom of the dizzy. I take a long screw driver ans turn the oil pump shaft where it will line up. GL
Okay,thank you very much.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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When removing the dist, I use a simple method with dist orientation using a black marker:
-remove the dist cap
-make a mark on the intake base & 1st one on the dist base
-note where the rotor is pointing with a 2nd mark on dist base
-slowly lift the dist, observing where the rotor comes to rest and make a 3rd mark of the dist base.
-diagram these meaks and their meaning

To install the dist, I reverse the process:
-align the dist base 1st mark to the intake base mark
-align rotor pointer to 3nd mark on dist base
-lower dist into position, observing that the rotor now points to the 2nd mark on dist base.

This method works well so long as you do not rotate the crank and/or the cam.

NOTE: If you intend to clean the intake base, simply scribe the mark into the Al.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
When removing the dist, I use a simple method with dist orientation using a black marker:
-remove the dist cap
-make a mark on the intake base & 1st one on the dist base
-note where the rotor is pointing with a 2nd mark on dist base
-slowly lift the dist, observing where the rotor comes to rest and make a 3rd mark of the dist base.
-diagram these meaks and their meaning

To install the dist, I reverse the process:
-align the dist base 1st mark to the intake base mark
-align rotor pointer to 3nd mark on dist base
-lower dist into position, observing that the rotor now points to the 2nd mark on dist base.

This method works well so long as you do not rotate the crank and/or the cam.

NOTE: If you intend to clean the intake base, simply scribe the mark into the Al.
Thank you and I'm glad you mentioned scribing a mark because I'll probably forget and clean my marks off.
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