Hey guys, think this might be my first post. I'm tryin to find info on a number of things and cant seem to find the answers I seek anywhere, so here goes.

Knowing the cooling differences between an LT1 and an L98 and what benefits the LT1 has because of these differences, I was curious if there was an ultimate cooling solution for a L98 in this day and age that could put it closer to the mark of the LT1's internal reliability and revability. I remember reading about a cutting edge coolant a few years back, but I wasn't into classics at the time so I never followed up on it. I realize this is a route most don't go. I take it it's just not worth it?
||| edit: also just so we don't have added confusion, I realize I cant just super cool an L98 and it will turn into an LT1, I'm not that dense. Reading further down will show my intentions for these questions. |||

Living in Florida I can tell you the first thing I'm buying is an aftermarket radiator and fan setup.

That said, I don't own a vette yet. I'm selling my 07 350Z and picking up a C4 w/ a ZF6 and then getting a junker beat up truck so no matter what (within reason) Ill still have a reliable transport to work. I also plan on building a separate 383 in my garage until its complete and then that will go into whatever vette I pick up.

I'm having trouble finding cutaway pics of the different sbc generations that there are. If I were to find, or purchase new, an sbc short block what are some ways to tell the generations apart. I know the second and third gens have different cooling routes but I don't know what they look like or how to tell them apart.

and finally on a side note I would just like to say that it is a huge pita to find a 89 and up C4 with a manual. Makes me wanna jump off a bridge.

-Jon

 

Outside of having all your stock cooling mechanics working optimally(my situation due to a low mile car with two bottles of wetter water), a two core radiator and and an electric water pump are the only guaranteed ways to keep the air flow challenged c4 cool.

I've helped others with c4s in both Louisiana and Texas, and those options are the only thing that I've seen work. Sounds like you have a lot of fun ahead of you!

 

Jon,

Finding a food value C4 here in Florida is challenging. There are a ton of high mileage rough L-98 examples for anywhere between 4K-6K, Decent LT-1 cars go for 7K-10K.

Took me a while but I got lucky on mine, especially finding it here in the Tampa area. Most cars for sale for whatever reason tend to be on either of the coasts and were over 2 hours drive time just to go take a look.

Where are you in Florida?

 

If you change the operating temperature of the engine, it may be possible that you will not pass emissions inspections. The car is designed to run at a certain temperature where all the emissions come together at one compromising point. If you alter that, your emissions controls will not work as designed. But, if you are only doing it for performance, a good way to keep your engine cool is to change your thermostat to a better one. Find out the temperature you want the car to run at, and choose your thermostat based on that decision. Good luck!

 

Tampa

 

There is no worry about temps affecting emissions on a vette unless you live in the Antarctic. He's fine in fl.

 

best thing you can do reprogram the fans to come on early

If reverse cooling was such a swell idea GM would still be doing it