cut hard lines to tranny?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
cut hard lines to tranny?
cant get the darn things loose, rounding off nuts WITH flair wrench. Need to have tranny pulled by tomorrow (auto). have everything pulled but converter and bell housing bolts. can I cut the hard line , will it be easy to replace them or can I use a rubber hose to ite the two cut ends together>?
thanks
thanks
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
If you have to cut them, a fitting with compression rings works well for a splice. My C3 had rubber line up next to the radiator from the factory and they worked. I never liked them though and replaced them 2 or 3 times over a 14 year period.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Just make sure you use rubber lines made for oil! Like a trans coolant line. h
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLER-HOSE-5-16-ID-X-25-FT-HI-TEMP-/190677641427?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6545e8d3&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLER-HOSE-5-16-ID-X-25-FT-HI-TEMP-/190677641427?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6545e8d3&vxp=mtr
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
Removal I guess would depend on your intentions for the car. I believe there are kits now for pre-bent replacements, if you cut intending a splice of any kind I'd want to do it where there's least possible conflict with exhaust, I'd try to make sure I could slip off the old flare nuts and just use new flare nuts slipped on the old tube and the braided line sounds more appropriate than the compression union.
I did have a friend though that did a dry fit with a compression union and when he was happy with the fit he epoxied the ferrules to the steel hard line and used a length of heat-shrink over it to protect it. I said "hide" and of course he argued that. It was actually a pretty damned good looking repair. Slip the heat-shrink over the line and when you're convinced it's leak free then just use a shrink tool to seal the deal.
I did have a friend though that did a dry fit with a compression union and when he was happy with the fit he epoxied the ferrules to the steel hard line and used a length of heat-shrink over it to protect it. I said "hide" and of course he argued that. It was actually a pretty damned good looking repair. Slip the heat-shrink over the line and when you're convinced it's leak free then just use a shrink tool to seal the deal.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 18, 2013 at 03:44 AM.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
If you have the cash, you might want to check out "Jiffy Tights" line too. http://motorsports.jiffy-tite.com/# They are quick disconnect, leak proof, and nice looking. h 
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,485
Likes: 566
From: Clearwater Florida
..... Use a tubing cutter ... no metal fragments like you would get with a hacksaw ... and stagger the cuts about 3-4 inches apart ... that way you won't have to figure out which was connected where AND the compression fittings wont be attempting to occupy the same space when you put it back together ...
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 19
From: SW Chicago Burbs IL
..... Use a tubing cutter ... no metal fragments like you would get with a hacksaw ... and stagger the cuts about 3-4 inches apart ... that way you won't have to figure out which was connected where AND the compression fittings wont be attempting to occupy the same space when you put it back together ...
Great advice right there.
I have splices in my lines from removing the trans and having to cut the line to get a seized radiator fitting out. The compression fittings cost around $5 from the parts store. I have zero leaks years later. It's not under high pressure.
As far as complete new lines, you will never get them in without removing the engine first, I tried.