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Would this mean inputting a different year and/or eighth VIN digit when I first set up the scanner? For example input to the scanner, 86, then try 87, then try 88, and so on, until one configuration works? Also, I didn't hear a response back on the main fan running all the time the ignition is on, I don't think this is normal, is it?
I don't think so. I would use the same digits and scan. Someone will chime in if you got the wrong part. Can you swap out with the old and see what it does?
The fact you have cleaned or adjusted sensors does not necessarily mean they are functioning properly. A case in point, for some time, I have had an idle issue that I wrote off as part of a new engine and custom tune. Recently I started getting intermittent codes regarding the throttle position sensor. I checked the adjustment and it was right on. So I replaced the TPS with a known good sensor. The problem was solved.
If you had the wrong ECM, I doubt your car would even start and it should definitely not flash a normal Code 12. Code 12 is supposed to indicate a good ECM. And as far as all the codes go, I suspect a setup problem with the scanner. You should not be getting a bunch of erroneous codes for different year vehicles. If the scanner won't connect, that should be a clue that the setup is wrong or the scanner is not compatible.
Backtrack your steps to when the car last ran.
I see your point. Any suggestions on how to setup the scanner?
The scanner should function using your 8th digit. Fans on is part of limp home mode brought on by your ecm, and or memcal failure. Put it back together again, try it, scan it and see if it pulls the same codes.
I see your point. Any suggestions on how to setup the scanner?
Here is how I would proceed. Run the old setup completely and see what happens. Change either the ECM or the EPROM but not both at the same time and see what is the best result.
I don't think so. I would use the same digits and scan. Someone will chime in if you got the wrong part. Can you swap out with the old and see what it does?
The old ECM was turned in when I got the remaned one.
The scanner should function using your 8th digit. Fans on is part of limp home mode brought on by your ecm, and or memcal failure. Put it back together again, try it, scan it and see if it pulls the same codes.
I'll do that after I get some Deoxit and spray the pins and connectors.
The old ECM was turned in when I got the remaned one.
Wish you didn't. I don't until I am certain the part works. I just pay the core charge and get a refund later. What about the EPROM? Did it go with the old ECM?
Here is how I would proceed. Run the old setup completely and see what happens. Change either the ECM or the EPROM but not both at the same time and see what is the best result.
Right now, I don't have a bunch of C-4 parts laying around. If it comes to buying another ECM or Medcal, I'll look for suggestions on what and where to buy them.
Wish you didn't. I don't until I am certain the part works. I just pay the core charge and get a refund later. What about the EPROM? Did it go with the old ECM?
I should have kept the old ECM as you have suggested. Lesson learned! No, I kept the old Eprom/Medcal, and installed it in the remaned ECM.
After looking at the manual, your scanner will not read the sensors on your 86. It will only retrieve stored codes. I suggest you place the scanner on the workbench and go back to reading codes with a paper clip. That will eliminate false codes from configuration problems. Verify there are no stored codes (Code 12 only).
When you plug in the scanner it puts the ECM in diagnostic mode. The fan will run in diagnostic mode. That's normal.
After you clean the terminals and verify the ECM is installed correctly, you should look into getting a tool that will give you more insight to sensor readings. Without more insight it is going to be very difficult to troubleshoot.
On another note, I would recommend investing in a good book. I bought "Corvette Fuel Injection" by Charles Probst. It's a good introduction to TPI systems.
The scanning method I recommend is to use a laptop. You can download the software from Tuner Pro RT. If you download the older version it is free. Also download the ADS files for your car. You'll need to purchase an ALDL cable. I got mine from www.aldlcable.com. They sell for $60. This will allow you to view all sensors and codes real time and record the data. The software allows recorded data to be converted to Excel. This setup has saved me a lot of money in parts.
After looking at the manual, your scanner will not read the sensors on your 86. It will only retrieve stored codes. I suggest you place the scanner on the workbench and go back to reading codes with a paper clip. That will eliminate false codes from configuration problems. Verify there are no stored codes (Code 12 only).
When you plug in the scanner it puts the ECM in diagnostic mode. The fan will run in diagnostic mode. That's normal.
After you clean the terminals and verify the ECM is installed correctly, you should look into getting a tool that will give you more insight to sensor readings. Without more insight it is going to be very difficult to troubleshoot.
Cleaned the ECM , Medcal, and several other plug/jacks above the pass side foot well, with Deoxit spray. Repeatedly connected & disconnected the circuits, then reconnected the battery and shorted ALDL. Within seconds I got the 12 code but no others. In the past it was difficult to get anything but a steady SES light. I reconnected the scanner, of course there should be no codes, with the battery disconnect reset. The scanner showed six codes but this time they were 41, 45, 46, 52, 54, 63. slightly different than the previous scan. As you suggested, forget the scanner. Tried to start the car, just cranks, and a fuel smell, tried WOT to clear flooding, but no luck. If the 12 code is saying everything is OK. What next? Injectors?
Cleaned the ECM , Medcal, and several other plug/jacks above the pass side foot well, with Deoxit spray. Repeatedly connected & disconnected the circuits, then reconnected the battery and shorted ALDL. Within seconds I got the 12 code but no others. In the past it was difficult to get anything but a steady SES light. I reconnected the scanner, of course there should be no codes, with the battery disconnect reset. The scanner showed six codes but this time they were 41, 45, 46, 52, 54, 63. slightly different than the previous scan. As you suggested, forget the scanner. Tried to start the car, just cranks, and a fuel smell, tried WOT to clear flooding, but no luck. If the 12 code is saying everything is OK. What next? Injectors?
Just a shot in the dark, but try disconnecting the MAF connector and then see if it will start.
On another note, I would recommend investing in a good book. I bought "Corvette Fuel Injection" by Charles Probst. It's a good introduction to TPI systems.
The scanning method I recommend is to use a laptop. You can download the software from Tuner Pro RT. If you download the older version it is free. Also download the ADS files for your car. You'll need to purchase an ALDL cable. I got mine from www.aldlcable.com. They sell for $60. This will allow you to view all sensors and codes real time and record the data. The software allows recorded data to be converted to Excel. This setup has saved me a lot of money in parts.
I'm leaning in your direction, and have read some of the instructions on the aldlcable web site. But just to be sure I don't buy another tool that won't work on OBD I or with my computer, or for some other reason isn't compatible. Here are my computer specs Windows Vista home Premium SP2, 64 bit OS, 4 gig Ram with USB connectors and close to an 8 hour battery life. I'm pretty sure it would be compatible, but just checking. On the site they mention a 10k ohm resistor built into the ALDL cable for use with the 86-89 Corvettes, used as a jumper. What's that about? If you are sure it will work I'll give it a try!
Cumberer's recommendation may be right. This is my opinion alone. I've built a webpage with instruction how to use it too! 10k resistor is required for the 7165.
Just a shot in the dark, but try disconnecting the MAF connector and then see if it will start.
Disconnected MAF, and tried to start, left MAF disconnected & gave it a couple of shots of starting fluid, reconnected MAF and repeated starting fluid, foot off gas pedal, then on pedal with various stages of TB opening. Tries to start but won't catch!
Disconnected MAF, and tried to start, left MAF disconnected & gave it a couple of shots of starting fluid, reconnected MAF and repeated starting fluid, foot off gas pedal, then on pedal with various stages of TB opening. Tries to start but won't catch!
Check the spark quality. Ground a plug and plug the wire in and crank. All 8 should give you a blue flame.
Cumberer's recommendation may be right. This is my opinion alone. I've built a webpage with instruction how to use it too! 10k resistor is required for the 7165.
I clicked on it and started to load the latest version 4.0.1 10-sep-2010. The software is free for 20 uses??
I clicked on it and started to load the latest version 4.0.1 10-sep-2010. The software is free for 20 uses??
Yes, 20 uses. However, I only know it works with the Moates cable. I just bought recently from someone else and it never would work after hours of trying. You may learn to use it here: http://www.scotthansen.net/data.html