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I'm leaning in your direction, and have read some of the instructions on the aldlcable web site. But just to be sure I don't buy another tool that won't work on OBD I or with my computer, or for some other reason isn't compatible. Here are my computer specs Windows Vista home Premium SP2, 64 bit OS, 4 gig Ram with USB connectors and close to an 8 hour battery life. I'm pretty sure it would be compatible, but just checking. On the site they mention a 10k ohm resistor built into the ALDL cable for use with the 86-89 Corvettes, used as a jumper. What's that about? If you are sure it will work I'll give it a try!
Your laptop should work. I'm using it with Windows 7 but I've also used it with Vista. The cable can be used with or without the 10k resistor. Instructions are included with the cable on how to configure the resistor jumper. The cable I bought has been used on my 85 and an 86. The Moates cable would also work.
I clicked on it and started to load the latest version 4.0.1 10-sep-2010. The software is free for 20 uses??
I'm reading in section 8, Data Master Application Versions, Shows 91-95 years. then says "Combinations not listed in this chart are not guaranteed to operate correctly". 1985-90's are not listed, did I download the wrong version? Not that I could use it yet, without the special cable.
On another note, I would recommend investing in a good book. I bought "Corvette Fuel Injection" by Charles Probst. It's a good introduction to TPI systems.
The scanning method I recommend is to use a laptop. You can download the software from Tuner Pro RT. If you download the older version it is free. Also download the ADS files for your car. You'll need to purchase an ALDL cable. I got mine from www.aldlcable.com. They sell for $60. This will allow you to view all sensors and codes real time and record the data. The software allows recorded data to be converted to Excel. This setup has saved me a lot of money in parts.
I don't have that book you mentioned, but this one may be similar. Automotive Computer Controlled Systems, Diagnostic Tools And Techniques, by Allan Bonnick, 749 pages, On my list to read some day, Maybe!
Yes, 20 uses. However, I only know it works with the Moates cable. I just bought recently from someone else and it never would work after hours of trying. You may learn to use it here: http://www.scotthansen.net/data.html
If I understand you correctly, you are saying that the the software works with the Moates cable. Then what did you buy recently that never did work? I'm confused!
If I understand you correctly, you are saying that the the software works with the Moates cable. Then what did you buy recently that never did work? I'm confused!
I would prefer not to say who provided the cable. The Moates cable works with Datamaster. You may have to update some drivers from ftdichip.com but Windows should do it for you.
I did not see your previous thread. Could you summarize the original problem and the steps you took? Why did you replaced the ECM? Maybe it would help to backtrack to when the engine did run.
I did not see your previous thread. Could you summarize the original problem and the steps you took? Why did you replaced the ECM? Maybe it would help to backtrack to when the engine did run.
Several posters have suggested that I get an ALDL cable and software, so I will be able to link to my computer. While I'm waiting for the cable to arrive, I need to get the Vette running. With that in mind, I have followed the "Engine Cranks But Won't Run" Chart A-3A 6E3-A-22 in the 1986 FSM. Everything goes along fine, until item 3, the injector test, ie: "Blinking Light", "Steady Light", "No Light". There is a light from either disconnected injector wire, from both the right & left injector banks. There is a steady light with the ignition on and the light just seems to dim slightly (not exactly blink) when the engine is cranked. I have used a test light with the 6.3 volt bulb, as per the FSM. If I take the blinking light route, it leads me to fuel fouled wet spark plugs, basically all of them. Now I can replace them with new plugs and they will probably foul again, unless I find the real problem. So if I follow the the other route, "Steady Light". I check the resistance of the injectors (I checked one on each bank today, but had checked all of them last week) 16.2 to 16.4 ohms. Part of this test is to check the injector circuit with steady light for short to ground. So I'm not sure if a steady light is good or bad. In any event, I get a steady light with key on even with both injector fuses removed an the ECM disconnected. So this is a NO WIN! "OK" says, replace faulty ECM, or "Not OK" says, replace ECM and any injector that measures under 10 ohms. So either case is replace ECM. Have I possibly wandered off the path somewhere?
Last edited by L72M21; Aug 21, 2013 at 07:09 PM.
Reason: more data
I should have seen this before, item #10 Chart A-3B which gives more clarity on Light vs no light, decision tree. Apparently, a light could be a short to voltage in the injector harness in CKT 467 and/or 468. I guess, causing injectors to turn on independent of the ECM. Causing flooding???
I should have seen this before, item #10 Chart A-3B which gives more clarity on Light vs no light, decision tree. Apparently, a light could be a short to voltage in the injector harness in CKT 467 and/or 468. I guess, causing injectors to turn on independent of the ECM. Causing flooding???
Once VATS authorizes power to the injectors they have 12 volts. The ECM provides the ground signal.
Once VATS authorizes power to the injectors they have 12 volts. The ECM provides the ground signal.
So, if I isolate the injector circuits by disconnecting the ECM and remove both of the injector fuses, No normal power or ground can be available to the injectors. Correct me, if I am missing something, but the only way that power could get to the injector circuits would be a short to another hot lead, to wire 467, 468, 639 or 839??? It is also possible that only one bank of injectors are receiving abnormal power. I'll check the other injector circuit tomorrow.
Here's a diagram of the injector circuitry. The injectors get 12 volts from the injector fuses (INJ1 and INJ2). The injectors are fired when the ECM applies ground to the light green and light blue wires. Note that they are connected together inside the ECM and all 8 injectors fire at the same time. This can cause you to get fooled when measuring things because sometime you'll disconnect an injector and make measurements but you're actually measuring all the other injectors. You need to disconnect ALL the injectors.
Here's a diagram of the injector circuitry. The injectors get 12 volts from the injector fuses (INJ1 and INJ2). The injectors are fired when the ECM applies ground to the light green and light blue wires. Note that they are connected together inside the ECM and all 8 injectors fire at the same time. This can cause you to get fooled when measuring things because sometime you'll disconnect an injector and make measurements but you're actually measuring all the other injectors. You need to disconnect ALL the injectors.
Cliff, thanks for that information. Would you re-post the diagram, if it is different than in the 86 FSM. The image would not load. Getting fooled, that's what I'm worried about, chasing a perceived problem, that really isn't a problem.
I got it running a few days after my last post. I was still trying to determine if there was a short to hot in the injector circuits, that may have caused flooding. I was unable to find a short, and by pulling and moving the harnesses around, I may have eliminated a short, if in fact there ever was one??? I removed all of the fuel soaked spark plugs, cleaned, dried, and gaped them. I Sprayed both ECM connectors and other connectors under passenger side dash board with "DEOXIT", Rechecked the IAC & TPS settings and it started up and idled better than it has since I have owned the car, two months now. I took it for a ride and it ran well. Unless there is an intermittent short in the injector circuit, (as described in post #51) the most likely things that I did to cure the problem (IMO) were the removal and cleaning of the EGR, IAC, TB, & plenum. Today I prepped it for the winter and put it in a zip up body bag ie "CarJacket" until next June. At that time I will probably need some help using the ALDL USB cable and Tuner Pro software. I would still like to see what is happening and learn more about C-4's. Til then, thanks to all who contributing to this thread. TTYL!