Diagnosing/Replacing Starter on '91 Auto
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Derry nh
Diagnosing/Replacing Starter on '91 Auto
Starter's been acting up, at least I think it's the starter. I've had CCM issues in the past which I've solved (replaced CCM) but this one's different. Every so often, say 1 out of 15 starts, I just get a click and no starter engagement. Last time it happened I was at the beach and had to reposition after just parking. Engine was hot and would not start after several attempts, just clicked. An hour later it started fine. Another time earlier it started on the second attempt.
For the old "tap it" trick, the starter's not easy to reach to tap it after a no-start, although suppose I could find a long, skinny rod and reach it from the engine compartment.
Was just going to replace the starter but realized it's pretty tight under there and not sure if it'll come out. The exhaust has been changed and there are oversize pipe "splices" (about 1/2" total diameter larger) between the manifold tube and the rest of the exhaust. Don't know if that makes removal too tight.
Any way to troubleshoot and does it really come right out with only two bolts?
For the old "tap it" trick, the starter's not easy to reach to tap it after a no-start, although suppose I could find a long, skinny rod and reach it from the engine compartment.
Was just going to replace the starter but realized it's pretty tight under there and not sure if it'll come out. The exhaust has been changed and there are oversize pipe "splices" (about 1/2" total diameter larger) between the manifold tube and the rest of the exhaust. Don't know if that makes removal too tight.
Any way to troubleshoot and does it really come right out with only two bolts?
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Yes 2 bolts, and 2 wire connections. You may have to loosen, or even remove the exhaust bolts from the head.
Sounds like you're experiencing heatsoak, (probably from exhaust) but it could be a failing solonoid. Either way you're looking at a new starter. I would look for an aftermarket peice that can handle a little more heat. h
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermaster-9600-Mastertorque-Chevy-168-153-Tooth-Starter-180-ft-lb-SBC-BBC-/380515230617?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item589879a399&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LT1-Versa-Shield-High-Temp-500-Degree-Heat-Insulation-Wrap-for-Starters-/130971152239?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item1e7e7d2f6f&vxp=mtr
Sounds like you're experiencing heatsoak, (probably from exhaust) but it could be a failing solonoid. Either way you're looking at a new starter. I would look for an aftermarket peice that can handle a little more heat. h
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermaster-9600-Mastertorque-Chevy-168-153-Tooth-Starter-180-ft-lb-SBC-BBC-/380515230617?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item589879a399&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LT1-Versa-Shield-High-Temp-500-Degree-Heat-Insulation-Wrap-for-Starters-/130971152239?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item1e7e7d2f6f&vxp=mtr
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 68
From: Providence RI
Bit of advice regarding choice of new starter.
I put a new starter in a 89 auto, and it was a pain in the rear end. Transmission cooler lines in the way, exhaust in the way, etc. He bought a cheap reman from a local place and it needed over 1/8" of shims to work. It took me a day to do it and I screwed my neck up trying to get it working.
When I replaced my starter on my 91 manual trans, it was easy but I did not have precats, etc. It just unbolted and dropped out. I put a powermaster on it this winter when the 383 dropped in, and that needed a shim in order to meet the specs in the install instructions (it was too close to the FW when disengaged.) Very easy to do on an engine stand, hard to do when the motor is installed.
Since they do not make "NEW" starters for our cars anymore (Delco, etc.) most are remans and who knows how many times they have been around the block and the mating surfaces "cleaned up" making them require shims.
If I had to do the 89 again, I would have taken his starter to a local rebuild facility and have his OEM starter rebuilt with new parts which have saved me a ton of time (no shims) and a week out of work due to injuring my muscles in my neck/shoulder. I suggest you go this route.
Hope this helps.
Mike
I put a new starter in a 89 auto, and it was a pain in the rear end. Transmission cooler lines in the way, exhaust in the way, etc. He bought a cheap reman from a local place and it needed over 1/8" of shims to work. It took me a day to do it and I screwed my neck up trying to get it working.
When I replaced my starter on my 91 manual trans, it was easy but I did not have precats, etc. It just unbolted and dropped out. I put a powermaster on it this winter when the 383 dropped in, and that needed a shim in order to meet the specs in the install instructions (it was too close to the FW when disengaged.) Very easy to do on an engine stand, hard to do when the motor is installed.
Since they do not make "NEW" starters for our cars anymore (Delco, etc.) most are remans and who knows how many times they have been around the block and the mating surfaces "cleaned up" making them require shims.
If I had to do the 89 again, I would have taken his starter to a local rebuild facility and have his OEM starter rebuilt with new parts which have saved me a ton of time (no shims) and a week out of work due to injuring my muscles in my neck/shoulder. I suggest you go this route.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 0
From: Suwanee,Ga
Bit of advice regarding choice of new starter.
I put a new starter in a 89 auto, and it was a pain in the rear end. Transmission cooler lines in the way, exhaust in the way, etc. He bought a cheap reman from a local place and it needed over 1/8" of shims to work. It took me a day to do it and I screwed my neck up trying to get it working.
When I replaced my starter on my 91 manual trans, it was easy but I did not have precats, etc. It just unbolted and dropped out. I put a powermaster on it this winter when the 383 dropped in, and that needed a shim in order to meet the specs in the install instructions (it was too close to the FW when disengaged.) Very easy to do on an engine stand, hard to do when the motor is installed.
Since they do not make "NEW" starters for our cars anymore (Delco, etc.) most are remans and who knows how many times they have been around the block and the mating surfaces "cleaned up" making them require shims.
If I had to do the 89 again, I would have taken his starter to a local rebuild facility and have his OEM starter rebuilt with new parts which have saved me a ton of time (no shims) and a week out of work due to injuring my muscles in my neck/shoulder. I suggest you go this route.
Hope this helps.
Mike
I put a new starter in a 89 auto, and it was a pain in the rear end. Transmission cooler lines in the way, exhaust in the way, etc. He bought a cheap reman from a local place and it needed over 1/8" of shims to work. It took me a day to do it and I screwed my neck up trying to get it working.
When I replaced my starter on my 91 manual trans, it was easy but I did not have precats, etc. It just unbolted and dropped out. I put a powermaster on it this winter when the 383 dropped in, and that needed a shim in order to meet the specs in the install instructions (it was too close to the FW when disengaged.) Very easy to do on an engine stand, hard to do when the motor is installed.
Since they do not make "NEW" starters for our cars anymore (Delco, etc.) most are remans and who knows how many times they have been around the block and the mating surfaces "cleaned up" making them require shims.
If I had to do the 89 again, I would have taken his starter to a local rebuild facility and have his OEM starter rebuilt with new parts which have saved me a ton of time (no shims) and a week out of work due to injuring my muscles in my neck/shoulder. I suggest you go this route.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Have not figured out how this can be done without removing the bloody bell housing ... not practical...
I must be missing something here??
TJM
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 68
From: Providence RI
When installed my powermaster, the engine was on a stand and the bell housing was not installed yet.
Removing the inspection place can give you some view, but not a good one.
This is why I am recommending rebuilding the oem unit...everything will be good to go first shot
Removing the inspection place can give you some view, but not a good one.
This is why I am recommending rebuilding the oem unit...everything will be good to go first shot
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
It doesn't matter the situation starter (this case) or alternator it's way more beneficial if your starter or alternator is an OE piece to have it repaired locally. Most local facilities can accomplish an inspect, clean and replace of what's required and usually for less than or comparable to off the shelf "unknowns".
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Derry nh
So no way to diagnose?
I checked out underneath and there are cooler lines in the way. Think I'll let someone else do it... was quoted $140 labor and I can provide the starter. Should save me a lot of cursing over replacing it myself!
I checked out underneath and there are cooler lines in the way. Think I'll let someone else do it... was quoted $140 labor and I can provide the starter. Should save me a lot of cursing over replacing it myself!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
Going in expecting a starter is going to get you a starter - like it or not. If they'll let you get yours checked and/or repaired while apart what do you do if it checks fine? Then you're out the labor and a starter? I'd maybe find a starter/alternator shop and have it checked before doing a thing. Let them know going in that if yours is an OE you're interested in a repair of yours vs an off the shelf unless it's one of their builds. A plus maybe by having them do it is maybe a warranty!
You supply a starter to your shop and it fails in 60 days the labor is "on you" the second time also likely!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski