Ok new one tonight the rear hatch wouldnt open no click no nothing when the button is pushed.

Im going to check the fuses tomorrow, where d o I go from there? Is it possible to release it to open without the power system?

 

Better get to FleaBay and buy yourself a new/used one. Look thru the online catalog stores for new oem or NOS that's for sale.

These DO just quit...

Go dig around under the passenger side of the trim panel BELOW the latch and snag the wire emergency cable. Its only 6" so you might have to fish for it...IF you need to use that hatch a LOT, add some string to the cable end so you can reach it from the seat...just don't let it be seen ! I've actually seen someone require o2 from laughing when they noticed a string tied to a Corvette hatch release .....that's a bubba rig so don't leave it.

 

What is the part called a latch release?

And thanks for making me laugh at the string part, I guess if I can find the wire to release it Im going to count myself lucky with this poor old car I bought. It just needs help to be a happy car again but it has to take it easy on me lol

Ok I just looked I guess its a hatch release solenoid. I found 86- whatever, so now is 84 and or 85 specific to just those years?

 

Never mind it looks like 84-96 are the same ones people just list them as different year ranges I guess.

It looks like theres probably 2 electrical connectors and one goes to a plunger switch I guess so it only sends current to the solenoid if the hatch is closed (and the plunger is depressed). Wonder if that could be the issue the plunger didnt get depressed or came loose?

Where do I find this little guy at in the vehicle to check it?

 

The setup changed over the years, so this might not apply exactly to your situation.

There is a hatch release button inside the console compartment. If you have an automatic trans the trans has to be in Park or Neutral for the button to work. If you have a manual trans the emergency brake must be on.

There are two hatch release buttons on the doors (I think they eliminated the one on the passenger door in later years). The door has to be open for this button to work. It is enabled by the courtesy light delay module, which detects that the door is open by reading the door ajar switches. The door ajar switches sometimes get stuck and don't work correctly. They are OK if you see the DOOR AJAR light on the driver's information center when the ignition is on and a door is open.

There is a relay that drives the hatch release solenoid. If you can't hear the relay clicking then there is probably something wrong with the switches, fuse or courtesy light delay module. If you can hear the relay clicking but the hatch solenoid doesn't work then the solenoid is probably bad (could be bad relay contacts).

The emergency hatch release cable is buried up under the rear compartment shade:



If you have a bad hatch relay or solenoid you must get the hatch open to access them, as they are under the rear surround.

 

Very good information thank you both. I found the release wire I kept digging and couldnt feel it but I pulled the trim a litle and saw a hint of the steel cable got a finger up in there and got it under the loop of cable pulled it down and there it was. Got the hatch open easily with it. Didnt tie string to it just yet.

Closed the hatch to see if reclosing it would do anything had to use the release cable again. Found the solenoid under the trim at the part below where the hatch would close at. Pushed my finger in the hole and pushed in the plunger, the inside courtesy lights went out so now I know what that plunger switch on the solenoid is for.

Started pulling the fuses even though I didnt have my dvom with me. I think if a 5 or 10 amp fuse blows it should look kind of obvious or most likely would.

Found one for RR Hatch it looked fine. Put it back in. I found one for Auto Hatch it looked fine put it back in. I dont know what the two large metal ones are but they came out and went back in easily to be tested later if need be.

I went to look at the yellow release switch in the compartment (its an auto car) and try to see where to get to the wires for it to see if voltage was present on one side and both sides of the switch when closed.

Well I`ll be darned I pushed the switch and its working fine. I guess dirty contacts on the fuses maybe the switch.

This car has 50 issues and so far I think 20 people on this forum have pitched in with advice knowledge suggestions offers for parts etc.

Its a pretty cool place and really encouraging me to keep working with this poor old car to try and make it happy again, without losing my mind over it.

So, dirty electrical contacts. Next to remove my digital IP and clean everything and see if I can get my speedometer and odometer to actually function.

 

Cool!

these things are VERY sensitive to corrosion and filth on the electrical contacts of the harness. From grounds to plug-ins...because the cars systems are managed by resistance, often dirty connections cause failures...

Be sure to read the tips carefully at Batee.com on the digital cluster.

beware the evil tabs...

 

I sure will thanks can you post a link for me?

 

Those are circuit breakers. On my car the top one is for the hatch.

My '86 FSM shows the top one for the defogger and the hatch as the second one, but that's not true for my car.