C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Optispark, Electrical, Fuel Pump, or Other Problem...Need Help!

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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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Default Optispark, Electrical, Fuel Pump, or Other Problem...Need Help!

Hello Everyone,

I'm currently having an issue with my Corvette(1994), I'll start off with the problem. Yesterday, I was heading to lunch around 12pm and 2 miles away my car died and I had to pull over to the side of the road. Luckily, there was a tow truck driver behind me that offered to take my car back to work. When the car got back to the work parking lot it started right up, so I thought maybe everything was ok. At 3:30 I went out and started my car back up, it idled great, but died 5 minute later. I wasn't going to chance driving it anywhere so I had it towed back home. After I got off work today I started' the car up and let it idle for 30 minutes and it DIDN'T die! I don't want to drive the car anywhere until I figure out the problem because rush hour traffic is horrible and I don't want to make it worse.

I've read a lot of forums and the consensus seems to be that it's probably the optispark, but I want a second opinion. I checked the codes in the computer and it was reporting back H16 and H72. So do you guys think it's the computer, optispark, fuel pump(I can here it prime when I turn the key), or something else??? Thanks for your responses in advance!

Optispark, Electrical, Fuel Pump, or Other Problem...Need Help!
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 11:43 PM
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Code 16...Opti, I would check the cable first.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 12:38 AM
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http://www.gmtuners.com/OBD1_DTC.htm

H stands for history, as in not current.

16 is system voltage too low
72 is VSS signal circut error

My first suggestion is to check your ICM. It is located just above the coil. It is mounted to the heat sink that the coil is mounted to. It is held in place by two 7 mm bolts and is easily removed. Take it to an auto parts store and they can test it for you. If it tests bad, of course replace it. If it tests good, get some heat sink grease and apply a nice coat on the back and put it back on.

Then...using the spark tester you bought while you were at the parts store, when the car dies, check for spark from the coil.
If you have good spark, check for spark from the coil wire at the opti end.
If you have spark there, check for spark at the plugs.
I there is spark, your issue is fuel.
If there is no spark at the plugs but there is going to the opti, it's the opti.
If you have no spark from the coil, it's either the coil, the opti, or the ecm.
From there, check for voltage going to the coil.
If theres voltage, then it's the coil. If not, then check for voltage coming from the opti at the opti harness.
If there's no voltage, it's the opti, if there's voltage its the ecm.

Now, if the car just dies, as in no warning, no misfire, no otherwise bad behavior, it just quits, I'm going to bet on the icm. The heat sink wears over time, and when these overheat, they simply quit. A bad Fuel pump or regulator will act like it's out of gas and sputter then die. A bad opti could just quit, but typically will miss, backfire, then quit. But it really sounds like yours is heat related. Of course, I reserve my American Right to be wrong.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
http://www.gmtuners.com/OBD1_DTC.htm

H stands for history, as in not current.

16 is system voltage too low
72 is VSS signal circut error

My first suggestion is to check your ICM. It is located just above the coil. It is mounted to the heat sink that the coil is mounted to. It is held in place by two 7 mm bolts and is easily removed. Take it to an auto parts store and they can test it for you. If it tests bad, of course replace it. If it tests good, get some heat sink grease and apply a nice coat on the back and put it back on.

Then...using the spark tester you bought while you were at the parts store, when the car dies, check for spark from the coil.
If you have good spark, check for spark from the coil wire at the opti end.
If you have spark there, check for spark at the plugs.
I there is spark, your issue is fuel.
If there is no spark at the plugs but there is going to the opti, it's the opti.
If you have no spark from the coil, it's either the coil, the opti, or the ecm.
From there, check for voltage going to the coil.
If theres voltage, then it's the coil. If not, then check for voltage coming from the opti at the opti harness.
If there's no voltage, it's the opti, if there's voltage its the ecm.

Now, if the car just dies, as in no warning, no misfire, no otherwise bad behavior, it just quits, I'm going to bet on the icm. The heat sink wears over time, and when these overheat, they simply quit. A bad Fuel pump or regulator will act like it's out of gas and sputter then die. A bad opti could just quit, but typically will miss, backfire, then quit. But it really sounds like yours is heat related. Of course, I reserve my American Right to be wrong.
Well informed post..... ICM is a good place to start.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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I thought 16 was low resolution pulse ( Opti ) Am I wrong?
Also in my case the ICM either worked or didnt.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
http://www.gmtuners.com/OBD1_DTC.htm

H stands for history, as in not current.

16 is system voltage too low
72 is VSS signal circut error

My first suggestion is to check your ICM. It is located just above the coil. It is mounted to the heat sink that the coil is mounted to. It is held in place by two 7 mm bolts and is easily removed. Take it to an auto parts store and they can test it for you. If it tests bad, of course replace it. If it tests good, get some heat sink grease and apply a nice coat on the back and put it back on.

Then...using the spark tester you bought while you were at the parts store, when the car dies, check for spark from the coil.
If you have good spark, check for spark from the coil wire at the opti end.
If you have spark there, check for spark at the plugs.
I there is spark, your issue is fuel.
If there is no spark at the plugs but there is going to the opti, it's the opti.
If you have no spark from the coil, it's either the coil, the opti, or the ecm.
From there, check for voltage going to the coil.
If theres voltage, then it's the coil. If not, then check for voltage coming from the opti at the opti harness.
If there's no voltage, it's the opti, if there's voltage its the ecm.

Now, if the car just dies, as in no warning, no misfire, no otherwise bad behavior, it just quits, I'm going to bet on the icm. The heat sink wears over time, and when these overheat, they simply quit. A bad Fuel pump or regulator will act like it's out of gas and sputter then die. A bad opti could just quit, but typically will miss, backfire, then quit. But it really sounds like yours is heat related. Of course, I reserve my American Right to be wrong.
Ok, so I'm going to take your advice and look at the ICM. I picked up an ICM and Coil today from Advance Auto for $90. I have taken out the ICM and Coil combo (what a pain to get the bracket off), dissembled, and cleaned. I need to pick up some thermal paste tomorrow, then I'll reassemble and hope for the best. I looked at other forums about the ICM failure and their symptoms are very similar to mine. I'm hoping for the best and will keep you updated on what happens tomorrow!

Thanks Again
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by pushing255
Ok, so I'm going to take your advice and look at the ICM. I picked up an ICM and Coil today from Advance Auto for $90. I have taken out the ICM and Coil combo (what a pain to get the bracket off), dissembled, and cleaned. I need to pick up some thermal paste tomorrow, then I'll reassemble and hope for the best. I looked at other forums about the ICM failure and their symptoms are very similar to mine. I'm hoping for the best and will keep you updated on what happens tomorrow!

Thanks Again
I hope this solves the issue for you. I bought an ICM from Autozone when I replaced my coil, though I went with AC/Delco for the coil. It's been a few years and over 30K miles and still lighting up the plugs every time. Good luck
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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I've got good news: It appears that replacing the ICM and Coil fixed the issue with the car dieing. I drove over 60 miles yesterday without issue

I also have bad news: After replacing the parts the service engine like keeps coming on and its throwing error 42. Is there something that I didn't install correctly or did I get a defective part? The car runs great now, but it's annoying that the service engine light keeps coming on.

Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
I hope this solves the issue for you. I bought an ICM from Autozone when I replaced my coil, though I went with AC/Delco for the coil. It's been a few years and over 30K miles and still lighting up the plugs every time. Good luck
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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Good News: I figured out what was causing the SES light to come on. It was a bad ICM, got another and code 42 went away.

Bad News: Took the car to work this morning and it ran fine. Went to the gym after work(Thank Goodness it's close to home) without issue. When I got into the car to go home, it was giving me problems starting, but started after the third time. It ran for 5 min, then died and I was on the side of the road. Got it started after 20 min of waiting traveled 100 yards to a shopping center where it then cut off again. Had the other two ICM's in the car just in case this happened again. Tried the other two ICM's and it still wouldn't start. Got picked up, ate dinner, came back two hours later to get the car. Car started made it the 1.5 miles to my house and it died in the front of my driveway where it sits now. Hopefully, I'll be able to get it started in an hour and put it back in the garage.

Is this starting to look like the opti-spark?
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by pushing255
Good News: I figured out what was causing the SES light to come on. It was a bad ICM, got another and code 42 went away.

Bad News: Took the car to work this morning and it ran fine. Went to the gym after work(Thank Goodness it's close to home) without issue. When I got into the car to go home, it was giving me problems starting, but started after the third time. It ran for 5 min, then died and I was on the side of the road. Got it started after 20 min of waiting traveled 100 yards to a shopping center where it then cut off again. Had the other two ICM's in the car just in case this happened again. Tried the other two ICM's and it still wouldn't start. Got picked up, ate dinner, came back two hours later to get the car. Car started made it the 1.5 miles to my house and it died in the front of my driveway where it sits now. Hopefully, I'll be able to get it started in an hour and put it back in the garage.

Is this starting to look like the opti-spark?
What you have described is what I'm going thru exactly, except I'm going the other way, I have already replaced the opti and am going to replace the ICM and coil next.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Dalu
What you have described is what I'm going thru exactly, except I'm going the other way, I have already replaced the opti and am going to replace the ICM and coil next.
I just ordered an opti, wires, and plugs. I've got my fingers crossed this will fix the issue!

A word on advice that might save you time is to install/test the ICM first, it comes off with two bolts. Hopefully, the new ICM will fix your problem because the coil is a PITA to remove.

Keep me updated, I'll try and help if I can...Best of Luck
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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If you are replacing the opti, this may help:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-pictures.html
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by seabright
If you are replacing the opti, this may help:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-pictures.html
Thx, I'm going to use this!
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by pushing255
I just ordered an opti, wires, and plugs. I've got my fingers crossed this will fix the issue!

A word on advice that might save you time is to install/test the ICM first, it comes off with two bolts. Hopefully, the new ICM will fix your problem because the coil is a PITA to remove.

Keep me updated, I'll try and help if I can...Best of Luck
Also check your wiring/connections from the Opti to the connector under the fuel rail cover, passenger side - I've seen these go bad also.
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Phat98
Also check your wiring/connections from the Opti to the connector under the fuel rail cover, passenger side - I've seen these go bad also.
Thx for the info, I will definitely check the connector. I won't be able to get to it until next week, but I'll keep you updated.
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pushing255
I just ordered an opti, wires, and plugs. I've got my fingers crossed this will fix the issue!

A word on advice that might save you time is to install/test the ICM first, it comes off with two bolts. Hopefully, the new ICM will fix your problem because the coil is a PITA to remove.

Keep me updated, I'll try and help if I can...Best of Luck
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I changed the ICM and it ran great for twenty minutes,then I parked it for two hours, tried to start it and wouldn't start. Put the jumper on and got only one code, H72 - gear shift selector circuit?? Anyone have any ideas??
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dalu
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I changed the ICM and it ran great for twenty minutes,then I parked it for two hours, tried to start it and wouldn't start. Put the jumper on and got only one code, H72 - gear shift selector circuit?? Anyone have any ideas??
I'd take your coil out and have it tested or replaced. Are you sure that the optispark you replaced was good?

Last edited by pushing255; Sep 22, 2013 at 06:59 PM.
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To Optispark, Electrical, Fuel Pump, or Other Problem...Need Help!

Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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I haven't found the opti to be an intermittent problem either. It either is good or bad. Now all the connectors and sensors could be bad, but I am not liking the Opti as the culprit here. If you are driving around with 3 ICMs than what is causing them to suddenly decide to quit working?

I don't have an answer for you but I would start thinking along that line of inquiry.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pushing255
I'd take your coil out and have it tested or replaced. Are you sure that the optispark you replaced was good?
Finally took my vette to the dealership and they put a computer on it and said the ECM was bad. Have one ordered.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pkincy
I haven't found the opti to be an intermittent problem either. It either is good or bad. Now all the connectors and sensors could be bad, but I am not liking the Opti as the culprit here. If you are driving around with 3 ICMs than what is causing them to suddenly decide to quit working?
I don't have an answer for you but I would start thinking along that line of inquiry.
Autozone, Advance, O'reillys are the first three answers I can come up with, they're pretty much hit or miss. I'd pay the few extra bucks and go with AC or Delphi. Period. To the OP, make sure you are putting thermal heatsink compound on the ICM, recommend also applying it to the bracket that bolts to the head if you haven't done so.
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