C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Anybody running solid lifters?

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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Think its the crappy metal cores in todays cams than the oil giving failures
Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Project C4 is right.
The lack of ZDDP (zinc) in modern oils leads to premature lobe failure with flat tappet cams. (proven fact)
The govt restricted zinc because it reduces the life of cats. (clogging)
Modern engines with roller lifters don't need the zinc anymore.
So a little online research reveals the "high mileage" oil blends have raised the zinc levels.

Or dump in a half pint of STP to recover the zinc without further worrys.

Actually I think you both are right, Mobil 1 has no ZDDP and the cam I just lost was Summit's own brand. I'm not knocking Summit but I don't know where they get their cams from. As to the naysayers on this subject of my cam choice, I will post the results here of how the car runs. Rollers are nice but my car is not a race car and I have ran solid lifters with much success for many years. If I picked wrong I will readily admit it but I don't think that will be happening.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 12:18 AM
  #22  
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Switching to roller lifters is not for race engines, all mfgrs have switch production cars to rollers.
Sadly the ZDDP problem for flat tappet cams is mentioned in small print with the cam mfgrs.
Just use the High Mileage Mobil 1 blend. It has the ZDDP you need.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:22 AM
  #23  
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Yeah if the oil is correct a solid flat tappet is ok to use. The downside is the lobe profile can't be optimized like a roller variant but it's all in what someone wants to do. I have run them both and with the proper oil never had a problem.

Also, the OEM's really like the roller tappets for camshaft design and parasitic draw in the emission choked, hp sells marketing of today. Durability could be had in materials and design on a non roller but the roller's benefits are enough to justify the costs. Just my .02
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #24  
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I have no argument against a roller cam, it is by far a superior choice to a flat tappet. I did check on getting a roller and right at this point in time is not possible due to cost. The summer events are winding down and I have one more event I want to attend and it is less than a week away. While the cam I picked out is almost the same specs as the one that was in the engine before, there is a bit more lift on this one and it may well be that it could mean coil bind. I won't know that until I get some more parts that are due in tomorrow. If I had went ahead with a roller there is no way I could be done for this upcoming event even if I could afford one. I would have had to change the springs for sure then. Now before someone comes up with, "You mean you are not going to put new springs on?" and stir things up again, no, I am not because there is less than a thousand miles on the Comp Cam springs that are on the engine now. I know you guys mean well and I know you did not know the circumstances around this flat cam fiasco so while I respect and agree with your opinions, (most of them) I am doing things the way I want to do them at this time. That is my stand on this but keep the discussion going, it is good for others who are on the fence about what they want to do.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
I have no argument against a roller cam, it is by far a superior choice to a flat tappet. I did check on getting a roller and right at this point in time is not possible due to cost. The summer events are winding down and I have one more event I want to attend and it is less than a week away. While the cam I picked out is almost the same specs as the one that was in the engine before, there is a bit more lift on this one and it may well be that it could mean coil bind. I won't know that until I get some more parts that are due in tomorrow. If I had went ahead with a roller there is no way I could be done for this upcoming event even if I could afford one. I would have had to change the springs for sure then. Now before someone comes up with, "You mean you are not going to put new springs on?" and stir things up again, no, I am not because there is less than a thousand miles on the Comp Cam springs that are on the engine now. I know you guys mean well and I know you did not know the circumstances around this flat cam fiasco so while I respect and agree with your opinions, (most of them) I am doing things the way I want to do them at this time. That is my stand on this but keep the discussion going, it is good for others who are on the fence about what they want to do.
Make sure you do a few oil changes to get as much of the cam lobe metal out of your motor as you can. That stuff is not good on bearings.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Make sure you do a few oil changes to get as much of the cam lobe metal out of your motor as you can. That stuff is not good on bearings.
Thanks, I pulled the pan off & cleaned it out completely, there was some shrapnel. even so, I usually change oil after a cam change at 500 miles. I have a question and you will be able to answer it. How much lift will the 128 heads support without clearance problems at the top of the guide? I have Comp springs on the heads but I am still concerned about coil bind and the clearances
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 11:34 PM
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Sorry, can't help you there. I am running 20 degree Holley heads made by Brodix.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 11:43 PM
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Anybody??
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:13 AM
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Running a solid in my 93. Last motor had one and new one does too. 26x/27x duration.. over .700 lift No v8 I ever have will have a hydraulic but thats because I love rpm !
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 10:31 AM
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MIdnight Id guess it would be well under .500 in but couldnt say for sure.
Best thing to do is check one and see. Its a simple deal to take them down albeit an inconvenience

Wondering if you were getting some interference before and possibly the cause of your top end/cam problems?
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 11:39 AM
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If you are using 1.5 rockers your lift taking into account the. 028-.030 lash you are at ..470-.485 net lift. so I would guess you should be okay but you should check with Lunati.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 11:17 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
MIdnight Id guess it would be well under .500 in but couldnt say for sure.
Best thing to do is check one and see. Its a simple deal to take them down albeit an inconvenience

Wondering if you were getting some interference before and possibly the cause of your top end/cam problems?
I don't believe there was any interference but I will know when I pull a couple retainers.


Originally Posted by wilcar
If you are using 1.5 rockers your lift taking into account the. 028-.030 lash you are at ..470-.485 net lift. so I would guess you should be okay but you should check with Lunati.
I sure hope that is the case. If I do have a problem the car will be stored for the winter and it won't have GM 128's on it when it comes back out in the spring.
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