C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

What a mess

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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 11:22 AM
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It appears I made a bad choice of cams for my engine, I had a hydraulic go flat so I bought a solid flat tappet in almost the same specs as the hydraulic was. I am have a real hard time now with cam lobe to rod bolt contact, (383) and have given it up as a loss. I am tired of band aid fixes so I am considering the GM Performance ZZ383 crate motor. Are the fast burn heads a good head? Other than the obvious fact I would have to change the balancer that comes on the engine is there any other reasons this engine would not be totally compatible with my '85 and all the intake mods I have?
The crate engine is just over $5,000. and to go through my engine and put on some badly needed good heads I am looking at over half the cost of the new engine. I am about to pull the trigger on this new engine but wanted to hear from anyone who has been there, done that.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Update:
I found out I can't use the engine I had picked out, it has Vortec heads, the search continues.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 12:25 PM
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What part number are you shopping?
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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I'm having a hard time believing that a flat tappet cam would fit any different than a hydraulic cam of the same basic profile. Are you sure the cam timing is correct?

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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
I'm having a hard time believing that a flat tappet cam would fit any different than a hydraulic cam of the same basic profile. Are you sure the cam timing is correct?

Me too, but it has to be the difference in the lobe shape that is the problem.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
What part number are you shopping?
Right now I have nothing in mind, the GM engine had Vortec heads on it. I had 3 different ones I was looking at that Summit carries but two of them have been eliminated for a couple reasons. Most of all the cam profile is not right for an efi engine. I have one more to research at Summit and then unless someone has an idea I will probably just re-do my engine completely. The only reason I was looking at a crate engine in the first place was because by the time I buy all I need to make it right a crate engine is not that much more money. If I do my engine I am looking at new heads, the 128's just won't cut it, rods that are stroker clearance and have capscrews instead of bolts & nuts, and a roller cam are the 3 big dollar items, and there are a lot of smaller things I would change. If you have any suggestions I am ready to listen.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 11:03 PM
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So, a factory "roller" motor has other differences besides the cam, lifters, valve train? rods? bolts?
Interesting. I would not have thought there would be ANY differences beyond the valve train components. Apparently there are.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
So, a factory "roller" motor has other differences besides the cam, lifters, valve train? rods? bolts?
Interesting. I would not have thought there would be ANY differences beyond the valve train components. Apparently there are.
Apparently I did not make myself clear, no the factory engines all have the usual internals. Some of the crate motors other than GM have H beam rods with capscrews and other small variances from the norm but almost all of them have a cam that is not compatible with efi. This was told to me by a couple different company techs. The first engine I was looking at had Vortec heads on it, others had cams way too wild for the street. I may have found a winner though, if I decide to get it I will post it here.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 10:26 PM
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ok..I get it now.
I can see the need to match things, H-rods and clearances but the cam being EFI compatible is curious. Another one of the ...I wouldn't have thought that made a difference..
shows how little I know about buying whole motors! Mine have always come in pieces...
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 10:35 PM
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I had vortec heads on my 91. I put a vortec HSR on it and LT1 exhaust. other than that it was fine.

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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
but the cam being EFI compatible is curious. ...I wouldn't have thought that made a difference...
http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html

The more overlap you have ( the lumpy idle so many desire ) the more raw fuel goes out the exhaust at idle ,
it fools the O2 sensor into giving a lean reading and so the ECM richens up the mixture
"So rich your eyes water" at idle is a common complaint
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
ok..I get it now.
I can see the need to match things, H-rods and clearances but the cam being EFI compatible is curious. Another one of the ...I wouldn't have thought that made a difference..
shows how little I know about buying whole motors! Mine have always come in pieces...
Mine too and that is part of the reason I'm in the mess I'm in, old school ways do not work any more with our cars. I don't completely understand it but vetteoz is saying basically whet I've been told. Any efi engine does not like less than 112 degrees lobe separation and the same goes with too much duration, which is what vetteoz is talking about.

Originally Posted by ch@0s
I had vortec heads on my 91. I put a vortec HSR on it and LT1 exhaust. other than that it was fine.

If I did not already have my Pro Flo XT I would not care if it had the Vortec heads. I think I have made my choice, a crate engine from ATK.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85



If I did not already have my Pro Flo XT I would not care if it had the Vortec heads. I think I have made my choice, a crate engine from ATK.
Cool, what are the specs?
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 01:52 AM
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http://high-performance-engines.com/...uct_Code=HP36M I got a better price without the intake, distributor and balancer on it.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
......Any efi engine does not like less than 112 degrees lobe separation and the same goes with too much duration, which is what vetteoz is talking about......
Not exactly.

Vetteoz referred to "overlap".....and he's correct. Valve overlap (measured in degrees.....the time that both the exhaust and intake valve of a cylinder are both opened) will result in a 'thumpier' idle and is a cam charactoristic that optimizes power output (at the expense of gas mileage).

The more 'radical' or race oriented a cam is, the more valve overlap it will have.

More duration doesn't always compute to more overlap.....neither does a lower lobe seperation angle.

EXAMPLE:

1. The B-body LT1 cam is about 191/196 duration with a LSA of about 110*.....but overlap is only about 10*.

2. I once ran a 224/230 cam with 114* LSA.....that had a -4* overlap.

If you're familier with Desk Top Dyno, you can enter basic cam specs and it will give you all the valve opening & closing events.....as well as the cam's valve overlap.

KW
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