hi all

just wondering how to go about removing the right side header on my 89. recently i noticed i had an exhaust leak somewhere and we found its on the right header somewhere. i'm hoping that the header doesn't need to be replaced and that the leak was just caused by a weld point falling apart or something.

but yeah i have no idea how to go about removing the header. i know the A/C motor has to be removed first before i get to the header. the left side of the motor looks alot easier to get to the header but jeez the right side seems like a pita due to the A/C being in the way.

has anyone done this before? if so do you have pictures??

also if i have to replace the headers should i just go with stock ones again or should i go with something aftermarket?

thanks

 

Your appraisal of the job is correct; it's a pita to access the right side...anything.

Remove the four bolts and one brace to the A/C compressor and move it out of the way.

Remove the access panel in the right wheel well to access the hose clamp that fassens the AIR tube to the header; remove the clamp. Remove the flex AIR tubes out of the way.

Soak the three Y pipe bolts and use a 1/2" drive, a deep 6-pt socket with a breaker bar to remove them.

Soak the EGR tube bolts in liquid wrench, place the Torx bit on the end of an extension and wrap sharply several times to loosen the Torx bolts; then remove them and the EGR tube.

Remove the spark plugs and lay the numbered wires out of the way. If any of the flex tubing around the wires breaks you should replace it as it provides protection from the EGR tube heat.

Remove the six header bolts and work the header (with heat shield still attached) up out of the engine bay; and remove the heat shield.

The headers are SS so you can likely have a leak heliarched.

Get a set of header gaskets at your local Chevy dealer before installing the repaired header.

 

alright thanks for the tip about the header gasket i totally overlooked that.

also now to fix the crack or whatever it is, can it be tig welded to reduce distortion? as i see if i have it arch welded like you recommend wouldn't i have to have the weld on the inside of the header ground down to smooth the flow? or does it not really even matter much??

well looks like i'll go buy myself a set of tools this weekend and get to work on this repair next week sometime.



[Modified by dmalhi1, 6:28 PM 7/4/2002]

 

Maybe Tig will work on SS but I'm not a welder so not sure. Anyway you will need to see where the crack is located to proceed with repairs.

My headers were in tact; I just pulled them to port and clean them up. I have pics of the ported result on my site.

Good luck.


[Modified by 65Z01, 9:03 PM 7/4/2002]

 

It could be that you just need to replace the gasket on the header.

Very rare for a SS header to crack. The studs for the Ypipe usually break before anything else.

Vic

 

well i did take it to my exhaust guy and he used this lil stetoscope thingie and well he found a leak up under one of the flanges.

i know the steel doesn't usually crack but i hear these manifolds are just bend into shape and certain areas are welded to begin with, maybe one of the welds came apart over time?

thanks for all the info. :D

 

If you have the money for longtubes or something better, of course do so, but this is prolly just a bad bolt or gasket.

 

how much are long tube headers? and also if i get long tubes won't that mean the front y-pipes got to be swapped aswell?

 

usually around $500-800 for longtubes, and ya need them ceramic coated so they wont heat soak the other stuff in the engine (like the starter) and yeah the front y will be gone

 

thanks again vader, you've been most helpful (as always) :D :cheers:

 

Just a clarification - helicarc and TIG are one and the same. This could also probably be MIG welded if the correct wire was used. I have both my headers off and found the flange for the Y-pipe with broken welds on both headers. Appears that the thick flange had no weld penetration as the heat required for that would probably have caused large holes to form on the tube side of the weld. I'd check yours for this condition while you have it out.

 

I just removed my rightside stock exhaust manifold and didn't remove the A/C bracket. I pulled the manifold from the top. I did remove all rightside spark plugs. went back in pretty easy.

 

are you serious?? hmm well i'll give it a look again sometime next weekend and see if its possible to do that way. my hands and arms are big so it might be hard to reach in.


mash,
thanks for the clarification on that and i will check the header for those problems aswell. the problem was there before when i had my maf replaced we started the engine with the hood open and i saw a little smoke come out from somewhere on the right side of the engine that dissipated quickly. soon after though my right precat went and i had it gutted the majority of the rattling noise upon giving the car a little bit of my right foot was gone but a little remained and eventually it just got louder turns out it is the right header. well i'll keep you all updated on this when i start on this projecct in a week or so (probably after next monday).

save the wave,
davin

 

just for clarification, the A/C 's are different in our cars. The compressor is longer than previous years. Not sure if Rick you are referring to your 86? or if you are referring to work done on a 89 and later car.
Davin, I kinda doubt it's the gasket at the head, but anything is possible. As reference, mine had 114K miles on it, original gaskets. No leaks. Remember to get D-port gaskets. I see them in catalogs listed as 1.55" X 1.63" opening. Coat them on both side lightly with like copper RTV possibly for extra assurance of sealing. BTW, there is no gasket at the flange where the header meets the Y-pipe. If ya gonna have the manifold out, port that sucker. I did mine, boy was there alot of casting flash/slag in them. I have some pics of them. If interested, IM me and I'll send them.
Are you delivering pizza in the Vette? :eek: :D :cheers:

 

paul, cool thanks for that info and yeah i just looked at the car a bit ago and theres no way i can remove the header without removing the A/C

also you say to port them? i guess i better remove both then? and have both ported. any clue on how to have them ported? this is my first time even opening something up that is so close to the actualy power plant. so i haven't a clue how to port them myself or if i am to get it done professionally, let alone costs to do this all.

also my biggest concern is are their certain amount that the bolts on the headers are supposed to be torqued when i reinstall them?? if so how much? i guess i will have to buy a torque wrench aswell when i go to buy my first set of tools :p:

as for pizza in the vette........ hmmm maaaaaaaybe i hear yer baking me some cookies?? white chocolate macadamia is my fave :D

"Save the wave (and me, the junior wrench head!)"

davin :rolleyes: