1995 dies while driving
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
1995 dies while driving
my 95 corvette LT1 died on me last friday first it hesitated like you put it in neutral then died completly like someone turned off the key i put it in neautral while coasting and tryed to start it wanted to catch but turned off again pulled over stoped and it started.later that day on my way home it did it again on the way home but this time it didnt catch at all when cranked for 5 min. then started like normal thinking the icm was overheating i went and replaced the icm(AC delco) took it on a pretty long drive didnt miss a beat on the way to work this morning it died again with a hesitation again started right back up but felt like it was missing so i let it cool off for 5 mins. after it ran like normal all the way to work and in the afternoon i got caught in traffic temp got up to 230 didnt miss a beat the whole way home.well sorry for the long post but does anyone have any suggestions?
thanks
thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,351
Likes: 222
From: Delta B.C. Canada
2023 C7 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Check the fuel pump (including the sock on the end of the pickup tube) and the fuel pressure & leak-down. If all of that is good, your ECM may be acting up.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
i checked the fuel pressure a couple months back 43 key on let it sit for 10 mins. couldnt see any drop on gauge i was under the impression if it was fuel it would sputter then die.after it hesitates there isnt a loss of power beyond that second i will have the codes read tommorow hopefully also the car has about 120K miles the only parts ive replaced so far are the coil,plugs and icm all ac delco it has a accel opti on it from one of the previous owners
thanks for the replys
thanks for the replys
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 30
From: Granite City Illinois
I had another car one time that did that. It would stall on the highway or wherever and a few minutes later it would start up and go again until it died again. It just cut off, changed the ignition module fuel filter fuel pump carb. It was the sock in the tank.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
i got a fuel pressure gauge today when i turned the key on first it went up to 10 PSI tryed again 23 then it started slowly going up a couple pounds ran it it was about 35 PSI after shut off it bled up to 43 PSI slowly when i drained the fuel off through the clear tube i could see little black particles floating in the fuel ive got a new AC delco fuel filter coming hopefully that will fix it but i replaced the fuel filter in april and tested it in may for fuel pressure at school i had perfect fuel pressure the one i took off looked to be original it had like sand/silt come out when i took it off i replaced with a duralast filter ive run it maybe 2500 miles since then
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
went ahead and bought a purolator fuel filter put it on runs alot better then i went to go somewhere and the tach started bouncing around so i went home was checking it out in my driveway it was missing when i brought it up to 1500 rpm then the tach needle bounced to 1750 then 2000 rpm in rapid succession and i went around back of the car and it shut off
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
i tryed the paperclip method of getting codes not sure if i did it right but i went to modual 4.1 and when i pressed the top two buttons it just showed 3 dashed lines does that mean i have no codes?
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,842
Likes: 230
From: SANTA CRUZ CA
There is a lot more useful info than just recovering codes in
this link. so you might get acquainted:
http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/ecm.htm
this link. so you might get acquainted:
http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/ecm.htm
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
There is a lot more useful info than just recovering codes in
this link. so you might get acquainted:
http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/ecm.htm
this link. so you might get acquainted:
http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/ecm.htm
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,842
Likes: 230
From: SANTA CRUZ CA
May be more than your needs (click on link) ...... (forget the vehicle types... they have LT1 engines using the opti):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFCja...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFCja...ature=youtu.be
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
i tested terminals A and D on the ICM weather pack got 11.75 V good tested term. B2.8V ac good im trying to get the optis weather pack off but it is in there ive been tryin for the last 20 minutes to get the thing off can i probe upstream?
thanks for the help guys
thanks for the help guys
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
May be more than your needs (click on link) ...... (forget the vehicle types... they have LT1 engines using the opti):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFCja...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFCja...ature=youtu.be
thanks for the help
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The stalling you're seeing is an intermittent condition. Sometimes it's there. Sometimes it's not. You might have done all your tests when the problem is in the "not there" condition.
Intermittents are the worst kind of problems because it's so hard to get the "not OK" condition to appear. You can't troubleshoot it if it's working. Another problem is that you can't be sure you fixed it. You do something and it seems to be OK. The next day it fails.
All that said, it's very common for the ignition system on LT1s to have problems with the connectors. The pins get corroded and make poor contact. Take all the connectors apart and spray them with contact cleaner. It's also a good idea to unplug and plug them in multiple times to scrape off any corrosion and help make a good connection.
I have also heard of wires getting broken or pinched. Check them out. I have seen wires that were broken INSIDE the insulation (that usually happens from too much bending, especially around sharp corners). They looked OK, but the connection was not there.
Intermittents are the worst kind of problems because it's so hard to get the "not OK" condition to appear. You can't troubleshoot it if it's working. Another problem is that you can't be sure you fixed it. You do something and it seems to be OK. The next day it fails.
All that said, it's very common for the ignition system on LT1s to have problems with the connectors. The pins get corroded and make poor contact. Take all the connectors apart and spray them with contact cleaner. It's also a good idea to unplug and plug them in multiple times to scrape off any corrosion and help make a good connection.
I have also heard of wires getting broken or pinched. Check them out. I have seen wires that were broken INSIDE the insulation (that usually happens from too much bending, especially around sharp corners). They looked OK, but the connection was not there.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
The stalling you're seeing is an intermittent condition. Sometimes it's there. Sometimes it's not. You might have done all your tests when the problem is in the "not there" condition.
Intermittents are the worst kind of problems because it's so hard to get the "not OK" condition to appear. You can't troubleshoot it if it's working. Another problem is that you can't be sure you fixed it. You do something and it seems to be OK. The next day it fails.
All that said, it's very common for the ignition system on LT1s to have problems with the connectors. The pins get corroded and make poor contact. Take all the connectors apart and spray them with contact cleaner. It's also a good idea to unplug and plug them in multiple times to scrape off any corrosion and help make a good connection.
I have also heard of wires getting broken or pinched. Check them out. I have seen wires that were broken INSIDE the insulation (that usually happens from too much bending, especially around sharp corners). They looked OK, but the connection was not there.
Intermittents are the worst kind of problems because it's so hard to get the "not OK" condition to appear. You can't troubleshoot it if it's working. Another problem is that you can't be sure you fixed it. You do something and it seems to be OK. The next day it fails.
All that said, it's very common for the ignition system on LT1s to have problems with the connectors. The pins get corroded and make poor contact. Take all the connectors apart and spray them with contact cleaner. It's also a good idea to unplug and plug them in multiple times to scrape off any corrosion and help make a good connection.
I have also heard of wires getting broken or pinched. Check them out. I have seen wires that were broken INSIDE the insulation (that usually happens from too much bending, especially around sharp corners). They looked OK, but the connection was not there.
thanks
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
i went to autozone,radioshack and best buy the ended up with electronics part cleaner says safe for most plasicsi coudnt find anything better at autozone and best buy only has the compressed air cans is that ok to clean up my weather packs?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
How many miles on the opti?
Put it in neutral after heating up to 180f on digital coolant display and slowly raise rpms up to 3 to 4 k.
If tack starts bouncing around at high speed you should set a code 16 low res signal code and that will be opti optical sensor on the way out.
Good luck....I'm currently waiting for my warranty opti from Chandler Motorsports
Put it in neutral after heating up to 180f on digital coolant display and slowly raise rpms up to 3 to 4 k.
If tack starts bouncing around at high speed you should set a code 16 low res signal code and that will be opti optical sensor on the way out.
Good luck....I'm currently waiting for my warranty opti from Chandler Motorsports
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
How many miles on the opti?
Put it in neutral after heating up to 180f on digital coolant display and slowly raise rpms up to 3 to 4 k.
If tack starts bouncing around at high speed you should set a code 16 low res signal code and that will be opti optical sensor on the way out.
Good luck....I'm currently waiting for my warranty opti from Chandler Motorsports
Put it in neutral after heating up to 180f on digital coolant display and slowly raise rpms up to 3 to 4 k.
If tack starts bouncing around at high speed you should set a code 16 low res signal code and that will be opti optical sensor on the way out.
Good luck....I'm currently waiting for my warranty opti from Chandler Motorsports
also when i took my opti out i noticed that theres a metal ring around the splined shaft for the water pump mines bent up what does it do?where does it go? its on the shaft coming out of the timing cover.
thanks for the replys
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
my 95 corvette LT1 died on me last friday first it hesitated like you put it in neutral then died completly like someone turned off the key i put it in neautral while coasting and tryed to start it wanted to catch but turned off again pulled over stoped and it started.later that day on my way home it did it again on the way home but this time it didnt catch at all when cranked for 5 min. then started like normal thinking the icm was overheating i went and replaced the icm(AC delco) took it on a pretty long drive didnt miss a beat on the way to work this morning it died again with a hesitation again started right back up but felt like it was missing so i let it cool off for 5 mins. after it ran like normal all the way to work and in the afternoon i got caught in traffic temp got up to 230 didnt miss a beat the whole way home.well sorry for the long post but does anyone have any suggestions?
thanks
thanks
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake Virginia
How many miles on the opti?
Put it in neutral after heating up to 180f on digital coolant display and slowly raise rpms up to 3 to 4 k.
If tack starts bouncing around at high speed you should set a code 16 low res signal code and that will be opti optical sensor on the way out.
Good luck....I'm currently waiting for my warranty opti from Chandler Motorsports
Put it in neutral after heating up to 180f on digital coolant display and slowly raise rpms up to 3 to 4 k.
If tack starts bouncing around at high speed you should set a code 16 low res signal code and that will be opti optical sensor on the way out.
Good luck....I'm currently waiting for my warranty opti from Chandler Motorsports
does anyone know if the new delphi opti part # CZ20003 is like the factory piece with a mitsubishi optical sensor?